Taifun GT Discusion!

Status
Not open for further replies.

TheKiwi

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 2, 2013
7,548
18,586
Durham, North Carolina, United States
From post #2025 of this thread, maybe you can reference off the screw head to get an idea of draw tube ID
attachment.php

It appears to be about the same as the OD of the post sleeves, I'll measure one here.(assuming their the same as TGT10

This is what I just found:


Improvement:-

1. Glass tank in a stainless steel sleeve.
(Specially ground glass sleeves for the Typhoon II GT customized)

2. The Liquid setting, closed, open sleeve is adjustable with the evaporator compartment lid,
by increasing or decreasing the indentations in height.

3. Air supply adjustable up to a maximum opening of 3 mm
The air supply from outside is from 2 sides, with a different number of air holes.
When fully open, the entire air duct is 4 mm, no whistling noises are not present.
Inside Airtube size is 4mm, possibly reduce by the supply Teflon sleeve to reduce the air tube size if necessary in the evaporation chamber.

4. Replacement seals are included

Optional / accessories:
- XS glass tank set
- Stainless steel sleeve as used instead of glass sleeve
- Evaporator chamber sleeve with widened indentations for even higher wattage vaping

IMPORTANT :- All parts is compatible with TAIFUN GT 1


Burping out loud using Tapatalk
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 8, 2013
4,493
11,078
USA
My GT I on my new P3:

Provari P3.jpg

My new favorite APV. Better than my Semovar or Eye. What can I say? These guys know how to build a great product. Slightly lower specifications, i.e., .7 ohms, 20 watts, but feature rich, and quality and way less than either Semovar (3 tubes and hybrid connection), or the Eye, and, I got it on sale day 1 for 10% off, so I'm really happy with this. I still use my three P2.5's all the time. The best imho...:toast:
 
Last edited:

AMDTrucking

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 7, 2013
1,950
3,232
California
From post #2025 of this thread, maybe you can reference off the screw head to get an idea of draw tube ID
attachment.php

It appears to be about the same as the OD of the post sleeves, I'll measure one here.(assuming their the same as TGT1.
The OD of the TGT1 sleeves is 3 mm

The diameter of the base is 23mm, then the hole appears to be about 3.5 - 4.0 mm approximately. IMHO
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,013
49,353
Imperial Beach, California
I've been having a problem with one of my TGT clones, it leaks a little. Finally I have spent some time on it and ran down the problem. This Is a FT type "b".
The stem wearing the 4 x 1 mm o-ring has it's groove cut too deep causing the fit to be loose and leaky. I guess it's destined to be a nano the rest of it's life.
I may order some 4 x 1.2 mm o-rings next time I order o-rings (might work) or just wrap something around it prior to putting on the o-ring.
 

brickfollett

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 25, 2013
1,357
1,167
Washington
I've been having a problem with one of my TGT clones, it leaks a little. Finally I have spent some time on it and ran down the problem. This Is a FT type "b".
The stem wearing the 4 x 1 mm o-ring has it's groove cut too deep causing the fit to be loose and leaky. I guess it's destined to be a nano the rest of it's life.
I may order some 4 x 1.2 mm o-rings next time I order o-rings (might work) or just wrap something around it prior to putting on the o-ring.

dental floss works well for that. Especially with drip tips that don't fit snug
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,013
49,353
Imperial Beach, California
dental floss works well for that. Especially with drip tips that don't fit snug

What I did was to cut the shortest length of heat shrink tubing possible and shrink it in the groove, I haven't tried it as yet but looks promising.
I'll bet there's a bunch of these (FT type b's) with the same problem, it's not much of a leak and pretty much has to sit for awhile before noticeable..
 

brickfollett

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 25, 2013
1,357
1,167
Washington
So here's a question. What do we think is going to be the better performer, the gt2 or the kayfun 4? Kayfun 4 has so many parts its ridiculous and seems to use the same theoretical concept as the previous versions. Gravity is a factor in kayfuns, but is not with the taifun, so we'll see! Wish pbusardo would review the gt2
 

chanelvaps

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 3, 2013
16,028
85,299
Burbank CAlifornia
Beautiful...just beautiful~
My GT I on my new P3:

View attachment 394394

My new favorite APV. Better than my Semovar or Eye. What can I say? These guys know how to build a great product. Slightly lower specifications, i.e., .7 ohms, 20 watts, but feature rich, and quality and way less than either Semovar (3 tubes and hybrid connection), or the Eye, and, I got it on sale day 1 for 10% off, so I'm really happy with this. I still use my three P2.5's all the time. The best imho...:toast:
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 8, 2013
4,493
11,078
USA
So here's a question. What do we think is going to be the better performer, the gt2 or the kayfun 4? Kayfun 4 has so many parts its ridiculous and seems to use the same theoretical concept as the previous versions. Gravity is a factor in kayfuns, but is not with the taifun, so we'll see! Wish pbusardo would review the gt2

Gravity? Both are Differential Pressure Seal/Bernoulli Principle tanks. You might like State O'Flux's most excellent treatise on the subject:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...type-atomizers-new-vapists-how-they-work.html

"Tank" type atomizers... For new vapists - how they work, and why it's a good idea to know this.

Thought I'd throw something up to help relatively new (and some not so new) vapists understand how "tank" type atomizers work.
Normally, I use the word "tank" to describe carto tanks... but in this instance, I'll suspend my own personal opinion about the subject, and use the word tank to describe most any clearo, glasso or carto tank... and many of the advanced RBAs as well.

The common denominator is that all of the above tank devices are functionally dependent on what's called, a "pressure differential". A techno term meaning that both high, or positive (in this context, atmospheric) and low or negative (vacuum or, in this context, less than atmospheric) air pressure are in play.

There is high pressure in the air tube (or "chimney") that rises to the drip tip and down to the coil... and out the bottom to the 510/eGo connection, or adjustable air control orifice. In the tank with the juice - under normal operating conditions... we find low pressure, or vacuum.
Still with me? Good.

I can't go further without talking briefly about wicks. Wicks have a few jobs - one of course, to wick juice to the coil so it can be vaporized, and two, the lesser known... is to function as a pressure seal. Not a perfect seal mind you... but one with a slow leak, that works both ways.
Not all PD atomizers use a wick in the latter description, but instead may use a series of orifices, where the dimension controls the transfer of both pressure, and with that, juice. The Kayfun design is the best example of this design.

More with wicks in a bit... promise.

So, how does negative pressure get in the tank when all around us is atmospheric or negative pressure? Well, that would be dependent on you... drawing on the drip tip. The temporary vacuum you create pulls juice, and that positive pressure you started with in the tank, into the coil head area... and a modest vacuum in the tank is produced.
Draw again... vacuum is enforced and perhaps even enhanced. Not a tremendous amount of vacuum... because most of our "lung generated vacuum" is directed out the venting system - and remember, our wick/pressure seal - still has that slow leak.
All else being equal, as our fluid column lowers, the negative pressure you've established above that fluid level will continue to be enforced and enhanced as well.

If we close (or even restrict) the atmospheric venting system and take a draw, what happens? That's right... most to ALL our vacuum is directed to the liquid tank... and depending on our seal (or control orifice) design, we may end up drawing juice right past that and into our coil/atomizing chamber.
This may be advantageous... in that with some atomizers, increasing the vacuum - immediately after filling or refilling and closing the system up - is key to both preventing leakage and to a lesser degree, priming the wick.

Does the vacuum last forever? With a wick seal - unlikely. If you walk away from a wick seal type atty that you were using... the vacuum may be slowly supplanted by positive pressure. How much or how long is a variable of the atty and the wick/seal.
This may be why your atty can be a bit gurgly (or you may find the 510/eGo positive "well" a bit wet) when you pick it up again... until you reestablish a vacuum with a few draws.

Once again - The pressure differential, in concert with wick seals and/or control orifices is why tanks don't leak like sieves - and why, when you refill a tank and introduce positive pressure back into it, they may gurgle a bit until a vacuum is reestablished.

And now... more on that all important wick/seal. If you're using a clearo/glasso of the Kanger BCC variety, it's (very) common to play with wicks. Removing flavor wicks, changing wick thickness and materials - and generally tweaking the pressure differential "seal"... without much thought to the fact that it functions as a seal.
Take out too much and the atty gurgles and even leaks. Add too much, or to "tight" a compression - and you get dry hits - and if a cotton wick, burnt gym sock flavored hits.
When you start to fine tune wick systems, with ball cotton perhaps being the most currently popular DIY wick material... take a moment to consider - "Is this (dimensionally) enough, or too much wick for the channels it fits into?" Is this wick too heavily or too lightly wrapped - is the density such that, capillary action is sufficient to feed the coil, but not drown it?"

I mentioned earlier that some advanced RBAs (may) use the same physics as a $5 clearo. The Squape, Taifun GT, Ithaka, Fogger V's, Aqua and even the latest greatest GUS Estia, along with their clones and variations, all fall into this category to one degree or another... with their wicks exposed to the juice tank. This isn't a bad thing, if done correctly, it works well and consistently.

A Kayfun, as well as it's variations and clones, use the pressure differential concept, but without the wick functioning as a seal. Instead we use the method of "controlled orifice" juice passageways - and a neat balancing act known as a "boundary layer" - which is established by those specific orifice sizes, keeping the juice from flooding the atomizer chamber.
In this application, juice is fed in liquid form, all the way into the atomizing chamber, before it encounters the wick.

With some lower priced KF clones, where the design is copied but not understood, and the orifice passageways are not considered "important"... you may find a condition of perpetual flooding or dry hits, from those orifices being too large or small.
The wick can act as a sponge... where with lower priced clones, they may have overdone it a bit on the orifice dimensions - and so those atomizers may need more wick than the original to stay in balance.

I suspect that the designers of the Kayfun (and Russian) spent more time fine tuning this aspect than any other.

Even genesis tanks have a pressure differential, but due to the design of the (typically metal or ceramic) wick not really functioning as a transfer port seal... it's frequently very temporary, unless the re-builder is very clever, in both their wick design and how that wick fits into the port it passes through.

Before this gets so long that no one wants to read it... I'll stop.

I used to teach this stuff - but in a different application. However, the same, sometimes complicated and really quite impressive "Bernoulli Principle" fluid dynamics apply, so... there you go, differential pressure is alive and well in your atomizer.

That's it... take it for what it is, do with it what you will.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 52anddone

brickfollett

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 25, 2013
1,357
1,167
Washington
Gravity? Both are Differential Pressure Seal/Bernoulli Principle tanks. You might like State O'Flux's most excellent treatise on the subject:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...type-atomizers-new-vapists-how-they-work.html

"Tank" type atomizers... For new vapists - how they work, and why it's a good idea to know this.

Thought I'd throw something up to help relatively new (and some not so new) vapists understand how "tank" type atomizers work.
Normally, I use the word "tank" to describe carto tanks... but in this instance, I'll suspend my own personal opinion about the subject, and use the word tank to describe most any clearo, glasso or carto tank... and many of the advanced RBAs as well.

The common denominator is that all of the above tank devices are functionally dependent on what's called, a "pressure differential". A techno term meaning that both high, or positive (in this context, atmospheric) and low or negative (vacuum or, in this context, less than atmospheric) air pressure are in play.

There is high pressure in the air tube (or "chimney") that rises to the drip tip and down to the coil... and out the bottom to the 510/eGo connection, or adjustable air control orifice. In the tank with the juice - under normal operating conditions... we find low pressure, or vacuum.
Still with me? Good.

I can't go further without talking briefly about wicks. Wicks have a few jobs - one of course, to wick juice to the coil so it can be vaporized, and two, the lesser known... is to function as a pressure seal. Not a perfect seal mind you... but one with a slow leak, that works both ways.
Not all PD atomizers use a wick in the latter description, but instead may use a series of orifices, where the dimension controls the transfer of both pressure, and with that, juice. The Kayfun design is the best example of this design.

More with wicks in a bit... promise.

So, how does negative pressure get in the tank when all around us is atmospheric or negative pressure? Well, that would be dependent on you... drawing on the drip tip. The temporary vacuum you create pulls juice, and that positive pressure you started with in the tank, into the coil head area... and a modest vacuum in the tank is produced.
Draw again... vacuum is enforced and perhaps even enhanced. Not a tremendous amount of vacuum... because most of our "lung generated vacuum" is directed out the venting system - and remember, our wick/pressure seal - still has that slow leak.
All else being equal, as our fluid column lowers, the negative pressure you've established above that fluid level will continue to be enforced and enhanced as well.

If we close (or even restrict) the atmospheric venting system and take a draw, what happens? That's right... most to ALL our vacuum is directed to the liquid tank... and depending on our seal (or control orifice) design, we may end up drawing juice right past that and into our coil/atomizing chamber.
This may be advantageous... in that with some atomizers, increasing the vacuum - immediately after filling or refilling and closing the system up - is key to both preventing leakage and to a lesser degree, priming the wick.

Does the vacuum last forever? With a wick seal - unlikely. If you walk away from a wick seal type atty that you were using... the vacuum may be slowly supplanted by positive pressure. How much or how long is a variable of the atty and the wick/seal.
This may be why your atty can be a bit gurgly (or you may find the 510/eGo positive "well" a bit wet) when you pick it up again... until you reestablish a vacuum with a few draws.

Once again - The pressure differential, in concert with wick seals and/or control orifices is why tanks don't leak like sieves - and why, when you refill a tank and introduce positive pressure back into it, they may gurgle a bit until a vacuum is reestablished.

And now... more on that all important wick/seal. If you're using a clearo/glasso of the Kanger BCC variety, it's (very) common to play with wicks. Removing flavor wicks, changing wick thickness and materials - and generally tweaking the pressure differential "seal"... without much thought to the fact that it functions as a seal.
Take out too much and the atty gurgles and even leaks. Add too much, or to "tight" a compression - and you get dry hits - and if a cotton wick, burnt gym sock flavored hits.
When you start to fine tune wick systems, with ball cotton perhaps being the most currently popular DIY wick material... take a moment to consider - "Is this (dimensionally) enough, or too much wick for the channels it fits into?" Is this wick too heavily or too lightly wrapped - is the density such that, capillary action is sufficient to feed the coil, but not drown it?"

I mentioned earlier that some advanced RBAs (may) use the same physics as a $5 clearo. The Squape, Taifun GT, Ithaka, Fogger V's, Aqua and even the latest greatest GUS Estia, along with their clones and variations, all fall into this category to one degree or another... with their wicks exposed to the juice tank. This isn't a bad thing, if done correctly, it works well and consistently.

A Kayfun, as well as it's variations and clones, use the pressure differential concept, but without the wick functioning as a seal. Instead we use the method of "controlled orifice" juice passageways - and a neat balancing act known as a "boundary layer" - which is established by those specific orifice sizes, keeping the juice from flooding the atomizer chamber.
In this application, juice is fed in liquid form, all the way into the atomizing chamber, before it encounters the wick.

With some lower priced KF clones, where the design is copied but not understood, and the orifice passageways are not considered "important"... you may find a condition of perpetual flooding or dry hits, from those orifices being too large or small.
The wick can act as a sponge... where with lower priced clones, they may have overdone it a bit on the orifice dimensions - and so those atomizers may need more wick than the original to stay in balance.

I suspect that the designers of the Kayfun (and Russian) spent more time fine tuning this aspect than any other.

Even genesis tanks have a pressure differential, but due to the design of the (typically metal or ceramic) wick not really functioning as a transfer port seal... it's frequently very temporary, unless the re-builder is very clever, in both their wick design and how that wick fits into the port it passes through.

Before this gets so long that no one wants to read it... I'll stop.

I used to teach this stuff - but in a different application. However, the same, sometimes complicated and really quite impressive "Bernoulli Principle" fluid dynamics apply, so... there you go, differential pressure is alive and well in your atomizer.

That's it... take it for what it is, do with it what you will.
Yeah I get the vacuum effect for sure, but you have to admit that gravity plays a small factor with those. I guess my point is, is that there is always a chance that with a kayfun, one side may not be wicking even if the other side is wicking perfectly. It seems nearly impossible for the taifun to have that issue because the wicks are always exposed to the juice. This does mean though, that if there is any leaking, the leaking is going to be bad. My problem with the kayfun, Erlkonigin, and squape reloaded has primarily been dry hits, and thus wattage limitations because the device won't wick fast enough. Maybe I just suck at building, but I've been doing rebuildable attys for a while now, and I mastered genesis builds a long time ago before I made the switch to a Russian 91. I eventually got a reo and that's where the fun began. But I couldn't resist a p3 because I sold my 2.5 to fund the reo. Since getting the p3, I've been looking for the perfect tank for it. Closest I've come has been the beyond vape silo, even above the kayfun 2.0, erlkonigin and squape reloaded because the silo is consistently GOOD. sure I can't really go above 13 watts with it, but I enjoy the heck out of it. The gt2 meets all my requirements. Afc, juice flow adjustment, glass tank, good capacity and easy to fill. I really want to see a comparison video between the gt2 and the kayfun 4. They both tailor to the same market, but it seems like almost nobody on this forum besides us even knows about the gt2. I got super lucky that I saw the gt2 was being released, and even luckier that I got one
 

Hawaiian Nate

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 24, 2014
183
87
Wisconsin
I haven't seen a review in English yet for the GT 2 but the concept of juice control for the Kayfun V4 sounds like a great thing. I only have clones of the GT version 1 (Ivogo) and a Kayfun 3.1 (HCigar) and I also did a few modifications to both. For the GT, I removed the plastic bushing which opened up the airflow, drilled out the air intake to 7/64 and dremeled the juice slots out a bit to help with wicking. For the kayfun I picked up a new center pin that was bored out to 5/64, drilled out the air intake to 1/8 and counter sunk every air hole. The airflow is better on the kayfun but she whistles like crazy. I'm thinking of taking a dremel to the juice wells in the kayfun cause at lower ohms it just can't keep up with wicking and is dwarfed in vapor production compared to my GT. I've been wrapping coils and wicks for about 6 months now so I think I know what I'm doing and the kayfun by far gives me the hardest time. On top of that I vape heavy VG (85/15) so wicking has to be on point.

All that being said, I always end up going back to my GT. I believe that the dremeled out juice slots make for a better vape (for me at least). AFC is always a great option to have but juice flow control sounds like a great concept and an awesome companion to airflow.
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,013
49,353
Imperial Beach, California
I think we will see it cloned sooner than later. They did, in my opinion, a fantastic job on the TGT 1's

I choose the Taifun II over the K 4 because of it's simplicity which also makes it easy to clone.(the K 4 is $20 cheaper BTW)

Oh, I want a K 4 too but can not afford it now....LOL

I made a mistake about the Kayfun 4 being $20 cheaper, it is about $20 more.
Some how I thought them British Pounds were Euros....dah
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,013
49,353
Imperial Beach, California
I had one stem too loose now I have one well just crap out. These red silicone o-rings that came on the TGT-S from FT are crap (IMO)
I changed two others as I was doing the first build on it, I should have changed them all. Still have a couple of them on there (lazy).
Before:
10377608_910968215594070_4259707850861454466_n.jpg


After:
10845896_910968578927367_2211567956176982517_n.jpg


4 x 1 mm


Leaked all over the place before I seen it.
 
Last edited:

zipflint

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 26, 2012
2,570
2,954
Spartanburg, SC
Agreed. Mine was leaking like crazy but I only changed the largest o-ring, the lower-most one. And I just used one of the spares it came with. That was two or three days ago now, and so far, so good. Fingers crossed.

I had one stem too loose now I have one well just crap out. These red silicone o-rings that came on the TGT-S from FT are crap (IMO)
I changed two others as I was doing the first build on it, I should have changed them all. Still have a couple of them on there (lazy).

Leaked all over the place before I seen it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread