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Thanks Craig, will let you know how it works,now back to lurking for me.
I don't know if this is the right spot, but..recently picked up a GT II from fasttech. It's been great so far, but the one thing I wish it had, and don't know the proper name for, is holes to insert the coil, rather than wrapping around the screws. Any suggestion for a way of adding that feature?
Thanx
Thanx
I found that very informative and thanks for sharing it. Just when you think you have all the gear to be happily vaping along turns out I now need a VaporShark RDNA and some Nichrome wire
I am no engineering expert,although I play one on tv.But do have electr mechanical background, I feel that would take a redesign of the posts.Or you could cut the heads off the screws and measure how deep the threading goes and trim your threaded headless srews to a few mm less and figure ot a way to screw them in the post holes. Then drill a hole in both posts a mm below the top of post and then find a couple new scwrews 3mm long to screw into the posts to hold your wires in the new holes.Might be worth a try.Good luck.if it works let us know,it is kind of a pain in .... wrapping around the screws.
I tried this on mine also and so far so good. Lubed the o-ring in the top cap with e-juice and tightened the crap out of it.
I'll report back after a couple more tanks.
Just wanted so say I am enjoying the Taifun GT2. After some small set backs, from me goofing up in set up, I finally think I have the wick just right and getting to know how much to close off the flow.
Only thing I have as far as suggestive criticism is that It needs a better juice flow design. Again, probably just me, but after using it a few days, and since I dont have air condititioning, is that in the day I have to close it off so it doesnt seep out of the AFC ring. Then at night when it cools off I have to open it back up.
I wish the air channel to the top was separate or had threads so that like the Phenom, GG atties one could open and close it to fine tune without having to take it apart.
Only thing I have as far as suggestive criticism is that It needs a better juice flow design. Again, probably just me, but after using it a few days, and since I dont have air condititioning, is that in the day I have to close it off so it doesnt seep out of the AFC ring. Then at night when it cools off I have to open it back up.
I wish the air channel to the top was separate or had threads so that like the Phenom, GG atties one could open and close it to fine tune without having to take it apart.
I have never tried that, I will give that a go.It has been 110 here the last week, and one thing I do like about this #2 version is it dosent leak half as bad as #1. And the # 1 had leaks out of the 510 post.The #2 is segragated from the chamber.The only thing I dont like so far is the tank, it has too many potential leak areas. I guess you get the tank sealed by lubricating o rings and tighten************** out of it, then leave alone. Personally I like to totally disassemble everything for cleaning.
I wonder if putting a rubber cap on the top of the drip tip would help when it is left idle, I am going to try that, will let you guys know if it helps.
All 4 of my TGT 2 clones are coiled with Ni200, I have a TGT S on my Eye that has Nichrome. I was somewhat of a slow TP adopter but that's pretty much all I use now.
I can't imagine installing a coil in a TGT with holes in the posts, not easily anyway. An authentic as well as some of the better clones have larger screw heads with better fitting posts/sleeves. The screws go the whole length of the posts and then some.
Leaking out the 510? It would be leaking out the air hole if it didn't leak there first. There's a small o-ring under the 510 screw's head, it needs to be compressed a bit. But then if it leaks it will be out the air intake hole.
Gee I better add that only the TGT 1 has the o-ring on the 510. I have added them to my TGT 2's with slight modification to the 510's insulator. Also there are some TGT 1 clones without the 510 o-ring.
I can't imagine installing a coil in a TGT with holes in the posts, not easily anyway. An authentic as well as some of the better clones have larger screw heads with better fitting posts/sleeves. The screws go the whole length of the posts and then some.
Leaking out the 510? It would be leaking out the air hole if it didn't leak there first. There's a small o-ring under the 510 screw's head, it needs to be compressed a bit. But then if it leaks it will be out the air intake hole.
Gee I better add that only the TGT 1 has the o-ring on the 510. I have added them to my TGT 2's with slight modification to the 510's insulator. Also there are some TGT 1 clones without the 510 o-ring.
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Ok so I can't stop the leaking from the airflow holes. BUT still it is the best atty I had. I can't believe how amazing this is.
Just one thing I would change and that is the ability to close/open juice control eithout actually removing the tank.
Just one thing I would change and that is the ability to close/open juice control eithout actually removing the tank.
Where are you getting this? And does it make a better vape even when your mod is not TC?
No. Do not use Ni200 wire (pure nickle) except on TC/TP mods in TP mode. Resistance is far too low for safe mech mod vaping and out of operational range on regulated mods in non-tp mode.
All of my GT1s are year and half old clones from fastec,and the 510 post would leak 50% of the time,especially if I needed to adjust it out for proper contact with a certain mod that diddnt have an ajustable 510. All of my new GT 2s fromm fastec are the ones you gus recommended a few pages back,these are different in the way the 510 is seperated from the chamber,so no possibility of leaking.I really like this change in design,although I kind of think the tank design is problematic.Have you tried the GT1 tank ona GT2,then this rta would be almost perfect.
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