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I can't see the video could somebody please post a direct link?
That looks absolutely amazing. Nice drip tip too
GSII looks great on that!
OK, I've seen mention of some issues wicking this little guy. I typically use 80VG or more juice and here is my build. This is a Clone from Focalecig.
The build is running really well, sat overnight with most of a tank in it no issues leaking, or flooding. I generally run this .95 ohm build @22 watts, and it provides a nice flavorful dense vape wick saturation seems about perfect.
I start out with about 2.2 inches (about 56mm) in width of 400 mesh, height is not real important as long as you end up with enough for 2 x .3 inch (about 7.5mm) straws. I just free roll the mesh, I would guess about a 1mm center opening, maybe slightly less. I wouldn't go much shorter on the feeder mesh, but it could be a little longer without issue.
I'm also assuming the authentic has the same 3mm feeder holes as the clone. The cotton is a piece cut from a Muji pad, full length about 1/4 inch wide (about 6.3mm)
My coil is 2.5mm .26gauge Kanthal comes out .95 ohms, which is about where I like it, just wrap it to your preference, I'd stick with 2.5 mm though, plenty of room for it. Height of coil can be adjusted to preference as well, but if its lower you may want to lengthen the feeder straws.
I remove one thin outer layer of the cotton, otherwise its a bit to tight in the coil.
Roll one end, pull it through the coil, cut it to length, shown here it ends up about 15mm long, and is centered. can be a bit longer, maybe 17mm for thinner juice.
Here is the cotton before brushing out the ends, If your using thinner 60/40, or thinner you may want to skip the brushing portion, and just leave it thick/dense.
I use the tip of my scissors, or tip of the needle tweezer to lightly brush the cotton, fluffing the fibers, and spreading them. (skip this for thinner liquid)
Then I just lightly pull out the loose fibers, ends up looking something like this.
Then I lightly tuck the tails into the juice wells. Make sure to leave the shoulders fairly high, and not tuck too much into the deck. If you have trouble with this part, just leave the tails a little longer.
Insert the mesh feeder straws in to holes, I keep them pretty tight in the holes, takes a bit of force to push them through, they end up sitting flush on the chamber cap, and pushed down into the shoulders of the wick, its important that they are in the shoulders a good bit so it can pool, and the surface tension will prevent it from flooding the chamber.
it was hard to get a good shot of the straws pushed down into the shoulders, but this gives a bit of an idea what it looks like.
Here you can see the liquid starting to pool as the wick becomes fully saturated. Initially when I started dripping liquid into the straws it sucked it up completely, once the wick becomes saturated it slows to practically nothing. If you fire the fully saturated wick at this point you can watch the pools of liquid get sucked into the wick.
I'm sure this is redundant information for many, but I hope it helps those having issues.
I've not tried any other wicking method with this because it just plain works for me, pretty much the same build I've been using on my FEVs for quite some time now.
I can't see why the PTFE tubes would need to be filled with wicking media, they should work just as well as the mesh. I've found the center opening size is not real important, the important part is the density of the wick, and having the feeder tubes contact/impact the shoulders enough to cause the surface tension and vacuum of the tank to stop flow when the wick is fully saturated.
OK, I've seen mention of some issues wicking this little guy. I typically use 80VG or more juice and here is my build. This is a Clone from Focalecig.
The build is running really well, sat overnight with most of a tank in it no issues leaking, or flooding. I generally run this .95 ohm build @22 watts, and it provides a nice flavorful dense vape wick saturation seems about perfect.
I start out with about 2.2 inches (about 56mm) in width of 400 mesh, height is not real important as long as you end up with enough for 2 x .3 inch (about 7.5mm) straws. I just free roll the mesh, I would guess about a 1mm center opening, maybe slightly less. I wouldn't go much shorter on the feeder mesh, but it could be a little longer without issue.
I'm also assuming the authentic has the same 3mm feeder holes as the clone. The cotton is a piece cut from a Muji pad, full length about 1/4 inch wide (about 6.3mm)
My coil is 2.5mm .26gauge Kanthal comes out .95 ohms, which is about where I like it, just wrap it to your preference, I'd stick with 2.5 mm though, plenty of room for it. Height of coil can be adjusted to preference as well, but if its lower you may want to lengthen the feeder straws.
I remove one thin outer layer of the cotton, otherwise its a bit to tight in the coil.
Roll one end, pull it through the coil, cut it to length, shown here it ends up about 15mm long, and is centered. can be a bit longer, maybe 17mm for thinner juice.
Here is the cotton before brushing out the ends, If your using thinner 60/40, or thinner you may want to skip the brushing portion, and just leave it thick/dense.
I use the tip of my scissors, or tip of the needle tweezer to lightly brush the cotton, fluffing the fibers, and spreading them. (skip this for thinner liquid)
Then I just lightly pull out the loose fibers, ends up looking something like this.
Then I lightly tuck the tails into the juice wells. Make sure to leave the shoulders fairly high, and not tuck too much into the deck. If you have trouble with this part, just leave the tails a little longer.
Insert the mesh feeder straws in to holes, I keep them pretty tight in the holes, takes a bit of force to push them through, they end up sitting flush on the chamber cap, and pushed down into the shoulders of the wick, its important that they are in the shoulders a good bit so it can pool, and the surface tension will prevent it from flooding the chamber.
it was hard to get a good shot of the straws pushed down into the shoulders, but this gives a bit of an idea what it looks like.
Here you can see the liquid starting to pool as the wick becomes fully saturated. Initially when I started dripping liquid into the straws it sucked it up completely, once the wick becomes saturated it slows to practically nothing. If you fire the fully saturated wick at this point you can watch the pools of liquid get sucked into the wick.
I'm sure this is redundant information for many, but I hope it helps those having issues.
I've not tried any other wicking method with this because it just plain works for me, pretty much the same build I've been using on my FEVs for quite some time now.
I can't see why the PTFE tubes would need to be filled with wicking media, they should work just as well as the mesh. I've found the center opening size is not real important, the important part is the density of the wick, and having the feeder tubes contact/impact the shoulders enough to cause the surface tension and vacuum of the tank to stop flow when the wick is fully saturated.
Fasttech just listed a Hotcig GS II, I could resist no longer.
$21.17 Hotcig GS II Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (3ml) - stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$21.17 Hotcig GS II Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (3ml) - stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
ccwaters-
Great pics. Lots of good information there. I do not have the GSII but I have the GSI.
I have used this built with my GSI but always left the stainless mesh standing upright a little. Maybe 1/4 of an inch. Not sure why I did it that way, maybe I watched something.
Great pics. Lots of good information there. I do not have the GSII but I have the GSI.
I have used this built with my GSI but always left the stainless mesh standing upright a little. Maybe 1/4 of an inch. Not sure why I did it that way, maybe I watched something.
SmokerStore just announced the GS III. A 23 mm version of the GS II
A replacement for the TGTII ?
I don't think so. I'm looking forward to it, the GSII is a great atty once you get the hang of it, so more capacity is a bonus.
Its an MCR 101 20mm with the media blasted tube. You can get the reg MODs or you can custom order by parts. Only down on it is, that the 20mm dont have a locking switch. Very odd, but so far no problems.
A replacement for the TGTII ?
Darn, it figures.... I wonder if the tank is parts is comparable, but I doubt it because of the design.
slight leakeage around the air-hole ring. My KF4s are doing the best. I have a Rose V2 coming Monday at the latest. I will see how that one runs.
Thanks, after a closer look at the pic i noticed the engraving on the switch and figured it out. Very tempting.
I think center air hole is much larger on the 23mm, like the TGT II...may not taste the same as the GSII.
Really tempted by that flash sale on the MCR 101, looks very nice on it.
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