talk me into (or out of) a Vs rDna40

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puffon

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  • Sep 18, 2014
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    I've experimented with all sorts of various builds. Right this moment I'm running an Atomic rda with dual 3mm micros. 14 wraps of 30awg each. That build sucks every last bit of the 40W out of it, but it pumps out some serious vapor. I've done several different builds with different gauges in it and that one seems to deliver the best flavor and vapor with the Atomic. I've done lots of various builds in my fogger, kayfuns, orchid, big dripper, plume veil, etc... In most cases I really just build for the device. If I'm building for my fogger or orchid i'm going with slightly smaller diameter coils (1.5-2.5mm), due to space considerations, and with RDAs I'm leaning towards the 3-3.5mm range. I pretty much just try to build for the particular device and try to maximize surface area while minimizing heat capacity and keeping the heat flux for whatever wattage I want it to handle at a nominal level. Wick that puppy with rayon and bask in vaper bliss... :D
    Saved.
    Thanks!
     

    KGie

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    Mar 13, 2014
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    If you are going to get a new vw mod then I would definitely go for a dna 40.
    .
    -You can totally dry out your wick without burning your wick
    to switch juice without any of the old flavor.
    . . . . . .^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
    That's almost enough reason by itself to convince me to get a 40. (Not that I needed any more convincing. lol)
     

    KGie

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    Mar 13, 2014
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    For what it is worth, I'm kind of in the same boat, the decision making boat. For the obvious, and well stated reasons here, I want to go VS rDNA 40 since it is new, has more features, has corrected some iffy features from the rDNA 30, namely reverse protection and integrated wireless charging. BUT, I'm considering the kinks and issues that likely come from early adoption. I'm also considering just snagging a DNA 30 from vaporshark for size and compactness and letting the DNA 40 get some life in it first.

    I'm admittedly being kind of cheap too in that regard. But, what I always come back to is that, either way, it is a quality 40 watt device. Kind of like motorcycles, the power is in the throttle, it will go where you want it to. If going with the 40, I personally will be slowly working my way into the nickel temp control world.

    Power is in the throttle, but handling is in the suspension, tires, weight distribution... it all depends on what your priorities are.
     

    KGie

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    Mar 13, 2014
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    I'd have liked this thrice if it let me. :)

    I also wonder if I'm going to wish I'd read it before I ordered Fasttech's DIY Case for the HANA MODZ 30 -- was your build in the Cana any permutation of quicker/better/cheaper then you think it would have been in the Fasttech enclosure, or do you see it as six-of-one and half-a-dozen of another? The case from Fasttech was only about $20, so so far the only obvious disadvantage is the wait to get it, but your answer might change my mind about that. (That said, I'm guessing I may want more than one DNA 40 in any event. Especially after reading your post.)


    I'll tell you this... I was sort of in the same mindset. That the DNA40 wasn't going to be the end all be all to vaping that some were claiming. Mostly for the same reasons. I never got burnt or nasty hits. I had my setups right and when dripping at the first sign of it drying out a bit I'd re-drip. So what real advantage would the DNA40 offer an experienced vaper like myself? Nothing that I could think of. Couple that with the headaches of working with NI200 and I wasn't sold at all. To make matters even worse, While I normally ran around 30-40 watts, I very often would run 50-60-70 watts and was actually thinking of getting more.

    But being me, I like to try new things. So I decided to give it a go. I spent $5 on a busted Cana mod and $60 on a board. I'm going to be completely honest when I tell you that once I got some initial problems resolved (I got a bad board) I felt like I was eating a great big helping of humble pie.

    For me it's about flavor. I make big clouds, but not because of the clouds themselves, but because of the flavor they bring. The DNA40 is like the difference between a can of spam and a perfectly cooked dry aged filet. Every juice I had tasted remarkably different. It's really hard to explain but I think it basically comes down to what I used to think was a perfect setup that wasn't burning wick material was in fact doing just that. Very slightly. So it wasn't noticable as a burnt dry hit, but just enough to tinge the taste. I truly had no idea what I was missing.

    What I think was happening was basically that even in my "perfect" setup, things aren't always perfect. You've got a fixed amount of wattage going through no matter what. So if a pocket of vapor forms and creates a positive pressure in a small area of the wick, that small area will go dry for a brief moment. Variations in the draw, what was a perfectly matched draw (i.e. removing the precise amount of heat that's being generated in vapor) a fraction of a second ago slows down and now lets heat build up, etc...etc...etc.... The DNA40 changes that. If the wicking slows down for a moment it reduces wattage until it's back to normal. If your draw slows down it does the same. It constantly changes and adjusts the wattage to stay right where it needs to be to match your variables.

    The result is a perfectly clean taste. Juice Juice and nothing but juice. What I thought was a perfect taste, was actually tinted and changed by other variables. The DNA40 removes those variables. So the taste you get is the taste you get. You can change it by varying the temperature, but otherwise it won't change on you without you making it.

    The first night I owned my DNA40 I sat on the couch with about 20 bottles of juice and a dripper. I'd drip a few drops, vape the wicks almost perfectly dry, then drip a new juice. Never any cross over of flavor, and most importantly even juices I "thought" I knew what they tasted like now tasted completely different. So much cleaner and better tasting in almost all cases. I mean seriously... I PRIDED myself on my awesome setups. When I'd go to the local B&M even the employees (very knowledgeable) would comment on how good various juices tasted in my setup. I really honestly thought I was almost a perfect builder and could get the best out of any juice out there. I was wrong...

    And as for power? All the power you put into it goes into vaporizing juice. NOT into burning wick or overheating the coils. The end result is that I can actually produce just as much vapor in the DNA40 at 40 watts as I can in another device at say 50 or 60 watts.

    At the end of the day, are there some things I hope they will get worked out or could possibly do better? Of course... But do I think you'll for a moment regret buying it? Not one bit. I sure don't.

    FWIW, After about the first week of owning the DNA40? I haven't touched a SINGLE other mod. Not once... I've actually ordered the stuff to throw a second one together because if anything happens to it I want my backup to be a DNA40, not a standard mod. I'm pretty much ready to sell everything else I own mod wise. Yeah... It's that good. And seriously... Go back and look at some of my posts in the "Thoughts about VV/VW mods" thread and others... You'll see I was one of the biggest skeptics out there... Until I tried it!
     

    rusirius

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    Aug 8, 2014
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    I'd have liked this thrice if it let me. :)

    I also wonder if I'm going to wish I'd read it before I ordered Fasttech's DIY Case for the HANA MODZ 30 -- was your build in the Cana any permutation of quicker/better/cheaper then you think it would have been in the Fasttech enclosure, or do you see it as six-of-one and half-a-dozen of another? The case from Fasttech was only about $20, so so far the only obvious disadvantage is the wait to get it, but your answer might change my mind about that. (That said, I'm guessing I may want more than one DNA 40 in any event. Especially after reading your post.)
    It was more about speed and luck. They were selling the mods for $5. They were just returns. One of them I actually fixed and have a working dna30 (the positive feeding the 510 was just a bad solder joint.) On the other the board was bad so I replaced it. Switches were already mounted and it already had a working charge board. I drilled out the 510 and installed an FDV 510. The wiring was already good for the dna40 so it was just easy.
     

    want to quit

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    Mar 26, 2011
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    Bought a DNa40 flask and sold it 2 weeks later. It's nice but since I am a kayfun guy with regulated stuff I didn't see a need for it. It's really nice don't get me wrong but for my style it ain't needed.

    Aside from the pros and cons the only big issue I had was nickel wire. That stuff is the biggest PITA I have ever worked with. If the nickel wouldn't be so annoying I probably would have kept the flask but it's just SOOO annyoing to build with.
     

    MrPlink

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    Mar 7, 2014
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    Funny it gets brought up but I was thinking of just building my own.

    It's been a long time since I have used a soldering Iron, but I have fixed and built things far more complex and or dangerous than a mod, so I figure a Lil practice soldering on a tin box and I should be right is rain.

    Problem is I returned to school to work on a doctorate, so free time is an absolute luxury for me, so maybe it would be best to just buy a mod.

    Choices choices choices..
     

    KGie

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    Mar 13, 2014
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    It was more about speed and luck. They were selling the mods for $5. They were just returns. One of them I actually fixed and have a working dna30 (the positive feeding the 510 was just a bad solder joint.) On the other the board was bad so I replaced it. Switches were already mounted and it already had a working charge board. I drilled out the 510 and installed an FDV 510. The wiring was already good for the dna40 so it was just easy.

    Nice price, and I forgot to ask the obvious question: where'd you get them at that price?
     
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