one can short out a coil and the "green" batteries dont like shorts, in fact no Lithium battery likes shorts...
TANK or MECH MOD
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one can short out a coil and the "green" batteries dont like shorts, in fact no Lithium battery likes shorts...
can you explain how you can short a coil ? i been wrapping 5 times around a small screw driver with 28 ken wire for 2 months now without testing any of my coils . i rebuild every week or so and change my cotton every few days . thank god havent had a problem yet but ya making me think twice about picking it back up right now ha
the Green VTC4's are not protected ( with the chip) and are good for VV/VW usage..
im looking to order one for my vtr , what mah your reccommend ? samsung sony or efest? i know it has to be a 18650 but what mah is best
The center post is positive.
The other two posts as well as the WHOLE METAL DECKING is negative.
I'm not sure where the insulator is on that center post but it's probably on the bottom of the center post.
IF the coil wire is touching the DECK, especially if it touches the deck near the center post, it shorts out the circuit to the battery. "Short" means the current takes a short pathway instead of passing all through the coil before returning to the battery.
The center post is positive.
The other two posts as well as the WHOLE METAL DECKING is negative.
I'm not sure where the insulator is on that center post but it's probably on the bottom of the center post.
IF the coil wire is touching the DECK, especially if it touches the deck near the center post, it shorts out the circuit to the battery. "Short" means the current takes a short pathway instead of passing all through the coil before returning to the battery.
thanks for the info but the one thing i do always check for is that my coil isnt touchin any post or the ground/deck
Another place that shorting out can occur is in the topcap, long before the current can get to the coil at all; there's a current thead here on this forum today with somebody who had a short on the center pin on his panzer mech mod.
Now on a regulated mod, if you have a short on that top cap the mod simply won't fire, and it will show you you have a short.
But with a mech tube, it just fire away anyway because there's no protections; it's entirely up to you to check your mod.
Now on a regulated mod, if you have a short on that top cap the mod simply won't fire, and it will show you you have a short.
But with a mech tube, it just fire away anyway because there's no protections; it's entirely up to you to check your mod.
so what you are saying .6-.8 are safe ohm reading for 18650 sony batterys on dual coil 5 wrap 28 ken wire? to be honest i dont really understand all that ohms situation , something i should prob research into lol
Typical ohms on commercial tanks are like 2 ohms.
You get 1.5 ohms to about 3 ohms.
Typically this is using 32 gauge or 30 gauge kanthal.
Alot of people who use rda's and are using higher gauge wire like 28 gauge use ohms even lower than 1 ohm; and when using dual or more coils the ohms get even lower.
If you don't understand all that ohms situation, I'd suggest you stay over the 1 ohm; - but once you get your VTR, I'm not sure what's the limit but it definitely won't fire into less than 0.6 ohms.
You get 1.5 ohms to about 3 ohms.
Typically this is using 32 gauge or 30 gauge kanthal.
Alot of people who use rda's and are using higher gauge wire like 28 gauge use ohms even lower than 1 ohm; and when using dual or more coils the ohms get even lower.
If you don't understand all that ohms situation, I'd suggest you stay over the 1 ohm; - but once you get your VTR, I'm not sure what's the limit but it definitely won't fire into less than 0.6 ohms.
You need to learn a LOT more before you can safely use your RDA and mech mod. It was extremely irresponsible of your friend to set you up this way without teaching you the important parts. Please go read up about battery safety and sub-ohm vaping on this forum before you install another coil. You should be able to 1) answer this question yourself, 2) know exactly what battery you're running, 3) know how many amps your coil and battery are running, and 4) know how many amps your battery can safely run before you EVER put an RDA on a mech mod.
Please put your nemesis away for a month or two while you learn these things. Doing what you're doing without understanding it is EXTREMELY dangerous. It's like putting a blindfold on and then seeing how far you can drive a car at 100mph.
Your VTR will be fine with the batteries you have now, and more importantly, it will be SAFE. it is a regulated mod, which means it will give you an error message and refuse to fire if you're trying to do something dangerous. Your nemesis will fire anyway and could seriously injure or kill you.
This stuff is serious.
If I put my nemesis away I will pick up cigs and start smoking again . Something I really don't want to do but I will order a tester and read up on that ohm/amp where do they sell tester locally like radio shack ? Do Vape spot sell them ?
Yes you can get a tester at radio shack. Very usefull for your rda.
At a vape spot, they might have the 510 threaded ohm readers where you can screw on the rda onto it and measure.
This. Get an ohm tester from a vape store - it will have the right connection to just screw your patriot onto it like you screw it onto your nemesis.
And I'm really not trying to be mean here. You just started with gear that really requires some knowledge to use safely. And using it unsafely can be dangerous.
As I said before, the VTR you ordered is a different story - that thing has all the safety built in. If you can screw a tank on and press a button, you can use it safely while you learn all this stuff.
That's why you don't see people recommend mech mods to newbies here. People usually move up to them later on in their vaping career when they understand the electrical side of it better. The variable mods like the VTR are a lot easier.
It sounds like you trying scare people with good reason behind it , but honestly I heard these green Sony vtc4 battery's can handle most you throw at it , aslong as your coil don't touch post from my understanding ill be fine. I mean I been building same coils for two months wit no problems , I go to Vape shops n show them my build I have yet to hear anything negative
Since you haven't had a mechanical mod blow up in your hand or battery go into thermal overload I can understand why you feel safe but it's always best to always test your build before flipping the switch. A simple cheap multimeter can check continuity and give you decent idea of ohms for your build. The old adage 'An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure' holds true for building your own coils. It's actually quite safe but you really should make sure everything's golden before pushing the switch the first time.
I hear that better safe then sorry but isn't it true wit the Sony vtc4 battery if it shorts or overloads just the top is suppose to pop out ? I heard they one of the safest battery's compared to those that do explode like the white n red ones
I've heard they are a fairly safe battery too but I don't want to find out what can happen to a 30a battery when the coil shorts while I am holding it in my hand, especially when it is so easy and takes seconds to test the coil build. If you do get a short please let me know how it turns out, I am genuinely interested to know. Maybe somebody here with a little extra money can hard short a vtc4 to see what happens. Any takers?
There is nothing dangerous about mech mods, as long as you do it right. Stay below the Max amp rating of your battery (80% of max amp), check your coils ohm before using it, don't let batteries fall below 3.2v (I keep mine above 3.5), use a good charger, only buy batteries from a reputable vendor and use good batteries.
People like to just scare newbies into thinking a mech mod is like playing with a gun. Unless someone is a complete idiot, they can learn and use a mech in a very short amount of time, like 3 hours.
People like to just scare newbies into thinking a mech mod is like playing with a gun. Unless someone is a complete idiot, they can learn and use a mech in a very short amount of time, like 3 hours.
The VTC4 is one of the safest batteries available. It's a GREAT battery. But nothing is totally safe - we're still talking about a lot of power packed into a small space. Here's a couple links to some of the accidents people have had with this type of battery (again, these are the safest ones we have right now). Please note, your VTC4 is an IMR (or "safer chemistry") battery, just like the ones in the links below.
Pictures of Serious Battery Failure
Shaken Provari Battery Owner
I've bolded the important part here. In this case, the poster doesn't know the amp rating of his battery, doesn't check his coils (he doesn't even know how many ohms he's using), and has no idea how low his batteries are when he recharges them.
A mech mod is almost exactly like playing with a gun - if you know what you're doing and follow standard safety practices, you can use it for its intended purposes with a reasonable expectation of safety, but if you've never picked up a gun before, know nothing about them, and someone just hands you a loaded gun with the safety off and says "all you have to do is point it at something and pull this little trigger thing" with no other instruction (like the situation the poster is in), you can easily hurt or kill yourself or someone else.
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Umm, mech mod with tank system rba. Yeah, build all my own coils on all my tanks. Not many rda's that can outperform my rba tank systems. Plus I can tank up a few mods, take to work and never have to fill up or change batteries. Great for on the go and around the house, doing yard work, walking the cats.....
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