Tap and die battery tube question

[TheSnake]

If I get a 13/16 inch copper pipe cut it using a pipe cutter and get a tap and tap a 15/16 will they both thread together. Yes I'm aware that not all diameter is equal on the inside. Just assume they are all equal I will work out those details later.


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[TheSnake]

Oh yea just for concept assume the 15/16 has is 4mm thick.


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[asdaq]

Copper really is too soft for threading, the slightest imperfection and it will chew itself apart or just get stuck, quite frustrating.

 

[TheSnake]

Copper really is too soft for threading, the slightest imperfection and it will chew itself apart or just get stuck, quite frustrating.

I don't mean to sound arrogant but I'd like to try anyway. I'm not building it for a go to device just mainly for fun. If it breaks it breaks. I just want to know if I thread it that way will it work.


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[asdaq]

OK. I tried a die on a 3mm alu tube and it was also too soft, just cautioning.

In theory it should work, depending on what the difference in tube sizes and the chosen thread pitch. your highest point of your make thread needs to be a bit less than the deepest of your female threads.

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[Visus]

I wanted to make a copper mod, this was all I could come up.





Without having to use these which are not free lol..

 

[Starlyte2]

You could grind of the hexagon, then polish it. I thought about that quite a lot.
Or buy tubes from a shop other than for plumbers. There are different thicknesses and hardnesses of copper, too. You could try to find hard copper (can't say what it's used for), or maybe brass, pretty too, also comes in different thicknesses in tubes, at each diameter.
This is a subject which has been trotting through my mind quite a bit without getting much further. It would need to be at LEAST 3mm, which would make the ext diam min 25mm, over an inch.
Let me know how you get on. It's a whole subject on its' own, the different qualities, thicknesses, and diameters of metal tubing.
Not to mention the hassle I'm having for finding tap and die big enough here for 18650 batteries. You'd think they didn't use them here bigger than about 1/2 an inch!
Good umm...tap & dieing (was going to put it otherwise, but not very suitable )

PS I has occured to me that these sort of things are done with metal lathes, which would get rid of some problems, except using the tour, let alone buying it. The use would come, but the money's not as easy
Might get into box mods, in alu or in wood, which is no problem to work with

 

[Grumpus]

They do make copper rods for machining. I'd still say you'd be gambling a bit with it.

Guide to Buying Copper Online | Online Metals Guide to Selecting Metals for Your Project

C145 Tellurium Copper is used when the electrical conductivity properties of copper are desired, but machining must take place on the product. C145 is deoxidized using phosphorus, and tellurium is used to improve the machinability to 85% of free-machining brass rod.

My advice would be to go with Brass tubing. Just a cheap and pretty. Far easier to tap and die than copper.

 

[Starlyte2]

Brass would be better than copper, I think, as it's harder. BUT if you like copper you'd need to do a good bit of anodizing to get it copper, thick enough to not rub of after a few months.
Or (it is late at night ), use brass/SS tube for threading and a copper tube over the other as a sleeve Strong, pretty, but possible ? That's the question, to which I don't have the answer.
Would be good if it worked...

 

[markallmon]

I have worked with copper quite a bit as a CNC machinist and had a job where all we machined was copper electrical components. Copper is kinda soft, but a lot of people don't realize how it behaves. It isn't soft like aluminum, it's more akin to Stainless as far as machinability. It's tough, meaning it's a fairly soft material (like SS) but is really hard on cutting tools. I'm assuming you're meaning you tap one size and run a die over the other to thread them together? I'm not sure I understand the question fully. But, I've been a machinst for almost 9 years, so if I understand, I'm sure I can answer....

 

[kaddigart]

If I get a 13/16 inch copper pipe cut it using a pipe cutter and get a tap and tap a 15/16 will they both thread together. Yes I'm aware that not all diameter is equal on the inside. Just assume they are all equal I will work out those details later.

The theory is sound enough, but I'd use a cut-off saw or equivalent instead of the pipe cutter because they tend to create flanges or turn the end into an oval. Maybe its just my cheap pipe cutter, I don't know.

Just a thought, since 3/4 copper pipe actually measures 7/8 on the outside it may be a better candidate to thread into a 15/16 tube.

 

[Visus]

The theory is sound enough, but I'd use a cut-off saw or equivalent instead of the pipe cutter because they tend to create flanges or turn the end into an oval. Maybe its just my cheap pipe cutter, I don't know.

Just a thought, since 3/4 copper pipe actually measures 7/8 on the outside it may be a better candidate to thread into a 15/16 tube.

We never use a pipe cutter in the electrical field because of that issue, it can be so sharp when pulling wire it can strip it. Hack saw and debur. Hand or battery wont like a razor to them and sanding it may offset an edge.. I did not think of this, I was probably going to make a pipe mod, my nephew is a union plumber and scraps are easily and I wouldhavea --haha cool..

 

[kaddigart]

We never use a pipe cutter in the electrical field because of that issue, it can be so sharp when pulling wire it can strip it. Hack saw and debur. Hand or battery wont like a razor to them and sanding it may offset an edge.. I did not think of this, I was probably going to make a pipe mod, my nephew is a union plumber and scraps are easily and I wouldhavea --haha cool..

It's good to know my rookie mistakes can actually turn out to be beneficial sometimes

That's a good hook-up to have, especially if he does high-end jobs that would require the use of higher grade piping. I've found the only precise thing about standard 3/4" "M" type copper pipe is that it measures 7/8" in outer diameter. Go figure. Everything else fluctuates, the inner diameter, roundness and even the color aren't consistent. I bought some "L" type after dealing with enough frustration and it seems to be much more regular. Granted it doesn't measure 3/4" on the inside either, but at least it is fairly uniform in its deviance. I would like to try "K" type sometime, but given the price difference between "M" and "L" I can't really justify the expense until I get more proficient at working with it.