Ok heres my question. I bought these blue tenergy RCR123a 900mah thinking these would be better than the yellow tenergy RCR123a 750mah but they arent. The yellow ones I've traded because thinking the blue ones are better, if not worst cass scenario perform the same. But, it seems the yellow ones produce more vapor on my GGTS. I want the same performance as what I'm getting from a LR901 in a AFS V2 on a SB with a 3.7volt 18650 tenergy... What does you guys think should I invest in some high drain AW ICR123a or just buy the yellow tenergy 750mah RCR123a again ???
please advise and inform me the difference and which I should get... thank you
ok I think there's a couple of issues that could be going on..and lets see if I can logically tackle them all....
first I'll assume we're talking about both of them being 3V batteries..
these :
Tenergy LiFePO4 RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh Rechargeable Battery
versus
these:
Tenergy RCR123A 3.0V 900mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery
both of them are going to have seperate issues... and some of those are going to be dependant on the Ω of the atty being used...
the first big difference you're looking at is that one is LiFePo (yellow) versus Li-Ion (blue)
so you got the yellow that doesnt have a PCB and the blue that not only has the PCB but an internal voltage regulator on it (and I think that that is your problem in a nutshell)
here's where which atty and the Ω comes into play....and where the difference would be from your 18650
basically what we got is that the max drain rate of your 18650 battery is higher than the amp draw of the LR atty at 3.7V... which is a good thing...
when you stack the yellow tenergy for 6V the max drain rate of the battery is lower (<.55A) than the amp draw of even a HV atty at 6V (so it's going to have a weaker hit and you're going to overstress the batteries alot causing them to have a reduced overall lifespan too)
when you stack the blue tenergy though....depending on what atty you're using ....that PCB it has in it first regulates the voltage down to 3V within 12ms (versus a fully charged 3V battery that charges up to 3.6V).... then on top of that the excess current threshold and excess current detection that's unique to that PCB may be holding the battery back as it were (in addition to it likely exceeding the max drain rate of the battery and overstressing it)
I wouldn't nessicarily suggest the AW IMR high drains either though because those are 3.7V batteries and stacking them will be 7.4V which might be entirely too much...
I'd look at the AW 3V LiFePo4 batteries though (
AW LiFePO4 3 Volt Lithium Rechargeable Battery ) (which have a higher max drain rate than the yellow tenergy) with a standard 901 atty ( reasoning being that a 1.5Ω LR901 atty puts out 9.13W at 3.7V....and a standard 3.7Ω 901 atty would put out 9.73W at 6V....so just slightly warmer)
I'm fighting this battle a little differently trying to get the right ohm cartomizer to maximize my 3.7V battery (18500). You may be running into an overstatement problem or chemistry issue. I still dont know enough about the chemistry to believe I need to get an IMR, I think thats what you are calling high drain. When I find the right ohm (1.7 or 2.?) then I can see how the battery behaves. Remember to do your homework, not the possibly overstated performance that sometimes is an issue.
I dont like the 123's so cant really help you with them directly. But if performance is an issue, look at the whole package and make sure you're not tying the batteries hands behind it's back like I am with a high ohm cartomizer.
in the higher mAh batteries like 18650 the IMR high drains really don't make a difference...where you'd see it is in smaller batteries like the 14500 and the 16340 (CR123a) sizes and stacking batteries for 6V and 7.4V.... the difference is in whether or not the Drain rate of the battery can keep up with the Amp draw of a atty at a given voltage...
). Battery Junction also says to not use any charger for either of these except the one designed for and bundled with them.
