No the blues was getting charged by the multicharger and the yellows was being charged by it own charger that came in the same package with the batteries
Tenergy RCR123 what gives???
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No the blues was getting charged by the multicharger and the yellows was being charged by it own charger that came in the same package with the batteries
I don't like the Tenergys at all. Who ever contemplated buying a separate charger just for one brand, type and capacity of battery? It's ridiculous.
Wow! Has this thread got overly complicated. Notwithstanding Drodz's knowledge of batteries, there are a few mistakes (because of the confusing posts) that require clarification:
That being said, the "Blues" do require a "special" charger, as a regular 4.2 charger will not do the trick, and is strongly cautioned against using a regular 4.2 charger to charge "blue Tenergys"
The batts will charge to 3.85V in a couple of hours, which represents a 90% charge. Then the charger trickles for the remainder of the charge (orange LED phase) to 4.2V coming off the charger to settle back into a residual (word) voltage of 3.85-3.88 volts.
As stated, once fired, the delivered voltage drops to 3V within 12ms or 6V (when stacked)
When I first got these, I scared the living daylights out of myself (charged voltage) I contacted Tenergy technical and was told this is normal and is what is suppose to happen. I have yet to have a problem with them ((except that base on previous discussions, I do indeed suspect they are being stressed) (or are they?))<----- is the voltage pulsed, similar to the JoyE batts and the eGo?? I am not sure if this is relevant or not.
I have been testing AW LifePO4s. To date the data is inconclusive (for now). Both batt sets have been utilizing an SLB XHV 901 atty at 5.2Ohms. One thing I have been noticing is that the top battery is depleating further than the min voltage of 2.0V, usually at 1.8V whilst the bottom batt will come out of PV around 2.5-2.6V. The batts are changed out when I notice a decrease in vapour production.
The Tenergys on the other hand, when they quit, they quit. Only the last couple of hits have diminished, before they shut down.
Although my Tenergy (blue) only deliver 5.6-5.7V under load, they hit harder than the AW LifePOs with a constant 6V. This may very well be subjective, but I doubt it. I am really .... when it comes to "technical aspects" hence, is the Tenergy PCB pulsing the voltage delivered, or is the 12ms (full nominal voltage) delivered that acts like a "priming puff" because their is a substanstial difference, vice a subejctive one.
In closing, I am a fan of AWs and have learned much in the last couple of months. However I do prefer protected batts performance wise. I have yet to use IMRs and will probably do so when batt replacements are needed for my 16340 applications and lower.
- There are two types of Tenergy RCR123As: (we all seem to know this)
- Yellow at 750mAh; and
- Blue at 900mAh
- Both are 3.0 volt batteries;
- One is LI Ion whilst the other is LifePo4;
- They require 2 totally different chargers:
- Yellow charges to 3.6V; whilst
- Blue charges to 4.2V
That being said, the "Blues" do require a "special" charger, as a regular 4.2 charger will not do the trick, and is strongly cautioned against using a regular 4.2 charger to charge "blue Tenergys"
The batts will charge to 3.85V in a couple of hours, which represents a 90% charge. Then the charger trickles for the remainder of the charge (orange LED phase) to 4.2V coming off the charger to settle back into a residual (word) voltage of 3.85-3.88 volts.
As stated, once fired, the delivered voltage drops to 3V within 12ms or 6V (when stacked)
When I first got these, I scared the living daylights out of myself (charged voltage) I contacted Tenergy technical and was told this is normal and is what is suppose to happen. I have yet to have a problem with them ((except that base on previous discussions, I do indeed suspect they are being stressed) (or are they?))<----- is the voltage pulsed, similar to the JoyE batts and the eGo?? I am not sure if this is relevant or not.
I have been testing AW LifePO4s. To date the data is inconclusive (for now). Both batt sets have been utilizing an SLB XHV 901 atty at 5.2Ohms. One thing I have been noticing is that the top battery is depleating further than the min voltage of 2.0V, usually at 1.8V whilst the bottom batt will come out of PV around 2.5-2.6V. The batts are changed out when I notice a decrease in vapour production.
The Tenergys on the other hand, when they quit, they quit. Only the last couple of hits have diminished, before they shut down.
Although my Tenergy (blue) only deliver 5.6-5.7V under load, they hit harder than the AW LifePOs with a constant 6V. This may very well be subjective, but I doubt it. I am really .... when it comes to "technical aspects" hence, is the Tenergy PCB pulsing the voltage delivered, or is the 12ms (full nominal voltage) delivered that acts like a "priming puff" because their is a substanstial difference, vice a subejctive one.
In closing, I am a fan of AWs and have learned much in the last couple of months. However I do prefer protected batts performance wise. I have yet to use IMRs and will probably do so when batt replacements are needed for my 16340 applications and lower.
So, riddle me this Batman.
I purchased the Tenergy Li-ion 3.0V RCR123A kit - 4 batteries with included charger.
They are silver with blue lettering. Not light blue as pictured. (doesn't really matter)
My understanding is that these should be pcb limited to 3.0V - So, why do all four of mine test at 3.6V-3.7V under load (after usage) ?
(yes I used the packaged/included 900mah specific charger).
I purchased the Tenergy Li-ion 3.0V RCR123A kit - 4 batteries with included charger.
They are silver with blue lettering. Not light blue as pictured. (doesn't really matter)
My understanding is that these should be pcb limited to 3.0V - So, why do all four of mine test at 3.6V-3.7V under load (after usage) ?
(yes I used the packaged/included 900mah specific charger).
without having them in hand...I'd guess...they have a resting charge of 3.6V-3.7V... when you hit the button they drop to 3.0V -3.2V within 12ms due to the internal voltage regulator ...and then when you stop pressing the button they go back to 3.6- 3.7V
I wish that were the case. I'm testing when loaded in an SP2.
I've been using these batteries for a good part of the day today.
Right now their resting voltage is 3.80V and 3.64V under load (when I push the button and testing off the top of my SP2).
...am I doing something wrong?
I've been using these batteries for a good part of the day today.
Right now their resting voltage is 3.80V and 3.64V under load (when I push the button and testing off the top of my SP2).
...am I doing something wrong?
I presume the SP2 is the sparkplug V2? Which is a 3.7V device. Why are you using 3.0V batteries in it?
When you say you are testing under load, do you have a test harness attached? If not, how are you reading a loaded voltage?
When you say you are testing under load, do you have a test harness attached? If not, how are you reading a loaded voltage?
Thanks for the help.
I'm sorry, I should have specified. I have 2 CR devices: one SP2 and one SP2 Thermo.
Obviously going for 6V - in the Thermo with these Tenergy batteries.
(I run AW ICR 123 3.7V 750mah batteries in the standard SP2.)
What is the purpose of a test harness?
I'm testing right off the top of the device (batteries inserted and press button) with my multi meter probes: positive to center post and negative grounded on the side.
I'm sorry, I should have specified. I have 2 CR devices: one SP2 and one SP2 Thermo.
Obviously going for 6V - in the Thermo with these Tenergy batteries.
(I run AW ICR 123 3.7V 750mah batteries in the standard SP2.)
What is the purpose of a test harness?
I'm testing right off the top of the device (batteries inserted and press button) with my multi meter probes: positive to center post and negative grounded on the side.
Under load = with an atomiser attached and current flowing to the atomiser. Can only be tested with a test harness. Although it is possible to test some box mods without a test harness, a test harness is req'd for testing most PVs under load.
... because otherwise your jst testing the battery voltage not the voltage going to the atomiser.
Responding to a PM I got...
Yes - Switched is exactly correct, of course. There is no load on the battery. The load is the big fat resistor - aka the atomizer.
Yes - Switched is exactly correct, of course. There is no load on the battery. The load is the big fat resistor - aka the atomizer.
Thank you guys, again for helping me out with this.
One more question: How do I make a test harness for it?
I tried cutting open a cartomizer and exposing the lead wire, I cut the wire in half, multi-meter positive to post side and negative to ground side wire, switched it on and still get 7.9V +
My guess now is, this isn't right
One more question: How do I make a test harness for it?
I tried cutting open a cartomizer and exposing the lead wire, I cut the wire in half, multi-meter positive to post side and negative to ground side wire, switched it on and still get 7.9V +
My guess now is, this isn't right
$5.50 voltmeter with load checker. - E-Cigarette Forum
This is a fancy one. All I used was a 510 battery connector and an old 510 atomiser. Weld a wire between the centre posts (+) and another on the housings (-). Some just scrape off some of the insulation and measure at the bare spot. I "teed" in some alligator clips that I simply attach to my probes.
This is a fancy one. All I used was a 510 battery connector and an old 510 atomiser. Weld a wire between the centre posts (+) and another on the housings (-). Some just scrape off some of the insulation and measure at the bare spot. I "teed" in some alligator clips that I simply attach to my probes.
Awesome! thank you again for all your help, I know it can be tiring talking to newbs trying to figure this stuff out
In my search I found this: Voltage Adapter from NotCig
Looks like it will do what I need - and I can eliminate the the possibility of making one incorrectly myself.
In my search I found this: Voltage Adapter from NotCig
Looks like it will do what I need - and I can eliminate the the possibility of making one incorrectly myself.
Awesome! thank you again for all your help, I know it can be tiring talking to newbs trying to figure this stuff out
In my search I found this: Voltage Adapter from NotCig
Looks like it will do what I need - and I can eliminate the the possibility of making one incorrectly myself.
That will only give you battery voltage without an atty.
Ok, I have both Tenergy Batteries with their own respective chargers and here is what my experience with them has been. ( Yellow LifePO4 at 3V and Blue Li-ion at 3V - all stacked by 2 to make 6V )
The blue ones were the ones I have used since day 1. They work well and give me good vapor and do not burn my juice. I have no complaints but it does seem like they are fading fast ( after 2 months, vapor is seeming to diminish slightly ) but they still last a long time on a single charge.
The Yellow ones put out a lot more vapor but can easily burn my juice if I do not keep my atty flooded. I used these for 2 days and then they melted my PV wiring (apparently) because my Saber Touch shorted out and just stays ON now. As soon as I screw on the atty I hear it sizzle ( NOT GOOD ). Now my Saber is back with the maker being repaired under warranty.
SO in my experience I would say the Yellow ones put out more juice than the blue ones. I am sticking with the blue, even if they do not put out as well as I would like. I may try the AW LifePo4s as Drozd suggested, but money is tight as I just started getting into DIY e-liquid, so I cannot afford to purchase anymore batts/chargers at the moment.
I do like the Yellow ones output though. Really nice vapor clouds! Hopefully, my Saber will be able to handle them once fixed. I wonder if it was just a faulty switch or some inferior wiring that led to the short. Hopefully, it will come back to me better than it was before.
CV
The blue ones were the ones I have used since day 1. They work well and give me good vapor and do not burn my juice. I have no complaints but it does seem like they are fading fast ( after 2 months, vapor is seeming to diminish slightly ) but they still last a long time on a single charge.
The Yellow ones put out a lot more vapor but can easily burn my juice if I do not keep my atty flooded. I used these for 2 days and then they melted my PV wiring (apparently) because my Saber Touch shorted out and just stays ON now. As soon as I screw on the atty I hear it sizzle ( NOT GOOD ). Now my Saber is back with the maker being repaired under warranty.
SO in my experience I would say the Yellow ones put out more juice than the blue ones. I am sticking with the blue, even if they do not put out as well as I would like. I may try the AW LifePo4s as Drozd suggested, but money is tight as I just started getting into DIY e-liquid, so I cannot afford to purchase anymore batts/chargers at the moment.
I do like the Yellow ones output though. Really nice vapor clouds! Hopefully, my Saber will be able to handle them once fixed. I wonder if it was just a faulty switch or some inferior wiring that led to the short. Hopefully, it will come back to me better than it was before.
CV
4 months and still going strong
I do not own the yellows but will say that unless we know what is happening under the hood (voltage under load), all this is purely subjective. One thing we do know is that they are stressed when fired. LifePOs do not have over-current protection and in this case it seems like the PV took the brunt of it.
Once again purely subjective but... if they act like the AW LifePos then perhaps as they put out 6V constant, whilst the blue tenergys are running at 5.67-5.7V under load. That being said and as I raised the issue, is the current through the AVR modulated, because that will make a difference. I don't have an oscilloscope so I can't measure that. But my blues hit slightly harder than the AW LifePos.
I do not know about the saber touch, but the precious has reported problems of humidity collecting in the switch through normal use, which in turn causes the switch to remain on. A quick cleanse with alcohol and a blow job solved that problem.I do like the Yellow ones output though. Really nice vapor clouds! Hopefully, my Saber will be able to handle them once fixed. I wonder if it was just a faulty switch or some inferior wiring that led to the short. Hopefully, it will come back to me better than it was before.
CV
In closing, the yellows are indeed an underrated battery for 6V use, something I did not know but I am glad I found out. Many vendors are selling these
but they shouldn't.
Ok, I said in my post it was in MY EXPERIENCE, which is obviously subjective! Anyway, I just wanted to mention that I love my Saber Touch and in no way was putting it down as a mod. It will be repaired at no charge thanks to the 5yr warranty so I have a little suffering to do for now, but it will be back soon enough and I will be back in 6V vaping bliss!! Sir Lawrence from Vapormoon is a very nice guy and has always been very helpful.
As far as the batteries go, I was just expressing my experience with them, I am no expert! I do like the blue Tenergy batts and will probably just continue to use those. I guess the LifePO4 batts are not as good as I have heard. Oh well, chalk it up to a lesson learned!
CV
As far as the batteries go, I was just expressing my experience with them, I am no expert! I do like the blue Tenergy batts and will probably just continue to use those. I guess the LifePO4 batts are not as good as I have heard. Oh well, chalk it up to a lesson learned!
CV
Ah, yes, a good ol blow job solves many problems.
But not mine.
Though now, through others guidance, I have realized - must test voltage with resistance.
Thanks again to those who have pointed me in the right direction.
My batteries are working fine and their internal pcb regulators are functioning properly....I'm just an idiot
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