Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.

[Katya]

Y'know, if you wrap two wires at a time, side by side, and carefully, then "unscrew" them from each other, you'll have evenly spaced coils. Matching tension is a pickle, but, heck, that's over-rated . . .

*ducks*

Knowing myself, I'll probably mangle both coils...

Sounds like a perfect project for Cinderella. I'd rather use a screw. Or go to the ball.

Edited to add: My smaller Gizmo set did include a 2 mm, although it mics out just a smidge under. The 3 mm and 1.5 were spot on.

I couldn't measure mine, but it fit comfortably into the Kanger PT single coil's slot (with plenty of wiggle room), so it must have been no more than 1.7 mm.

Just curious, did you actually measure the second smallest rod from the deluxe kit? I held both (econo and deluxe) side by side and they really seemed to be the same size. Of course, my eyesight is not exactly what it used to be. And it was never 20/20 to begin with.

 

[etherealink]

Seriously something like that compact not too complex to handle multi wire would be huge. I'm lookin' at the horizon seein' those days comin' for me.

Here's what I'm talkin' about…superlative thin wire surface area, ultra-fast firing, excellent turn-to-turn stability with twisted leads…as in this wind I've been posting (below)...30AWG TLP 6/5, 2.5mm i.d., 9mm L/L, t.m.c. = .5Ω

At 15W approaching full charge batt vapor levels of a mech. Very high density despite the very airy vape of the SubMini which is like tryin' to vape with the cap off the dripper. Only thing comparable in my bag is the MutX with a big bore tip.

I was diggin' parallels early on but they start to distort the second you take 'em off the bit. Hard to maintain symmetry and less for the leads. Minute that happens you start to go hot, dry like a loose post. Great if you can tolerate that kind of heat but I can't or with the disproportionate loss of flavor. Worse, it just don't vape. So I gave 'em up for a good long time until I was inspired by Matty's twisted center post duals last summer.

My fav personal vape has been t/p so I really thought about this…how to stabilize parallels. Notice the very uniform heating which distinctly ends at the start of twist. All the flavor advantage of wire mass, max the surface area for the resistance and all the flavor you would expect from the vapor density boost.

Please…don't take my word for it.

It's not the warm vape or the cool; it's what you wish straight wire would do at that resistance.



Enjoy the vape.

p.s. Suggestion gang, what about a ceramic guide to line up a feed from two spools?
p.s.s. And sorry turbo for the backstory fill in for those just landing here. You know I talk to the bleachers.


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Ok, how did you save and export the coil specs? I'm sick of pen and paper.

Pardons if it's been asked before

 

[etherealink]

Saw this line winder and thought I'd drop it here for ideas on how to add a tensioner to kanthal spools?

Also, has anyone looked into old RF Coil winders? I remember when I was a kid building a radio at summer camp. We wound our own RF coils on a jig that kept tension on the copper wire. I've been looking onine but haven't found any yet.

Oh yeah, thats on the wishlist.

Does anyone else see fishing reels full of kanthal.... with no young 'uns involved?

 

[MacTechVpr]

Ok, how did you save and export the coil specs? I'm sick of pen and paper.

Pardons if it's been asked before

Right! No it hasn't. Easy to do and instantly validates the data so the reader knows…issss good.



30AWG TLP 6/5, 2.5mm i.d., 9mm L/L, t.m.c. = .5Ω

Just link SE's url to the coil spec description you manually enter or copy/paste into a post.

To copy just the text post-to-post or from an external editor, copy to memory and do a Paste and Match Style if supported by the browser, then link.

Copy it from one post to the next by going Advanced in the reply (or new post) and switching over to WYSIWYG in the ECF editor. Then drag-and-drop or copy it in from the original post's HTML, link is usually retained. If you lose the link no biggie. Just copy it from the original's HTML or reply edit box of the orig post and link it in the new post.

This is a great tool as you can see E because you pass on a wealth of data. I only wish coiltoy could do similar. I've spoken with the author and unfortunately I don't think any further development is gonna happen on the webside app. Coiltoy's graphic display is an amazing tool for the average person to conceive of how spec changes affect the geometry. Sometimes hard to visualize even for experienced builders.

Maybe Dampmaskin will be persuaded to incorporate something like the 3D renderer in future. I hope.

I started using this syntax for annotation on coil specs since my early posts on the PTMicro thread. Saves a lot of time. And perfected with steam-engine.com data as it stores the coil spec in the url. I keep most developed and research wind specs in a table on a blog editor (pre-linked) so I can just drag 'em over when I need 'em. And also E so I can damn remember WTH I did bro! I've done a lotta coils. Don't help makin' stuff to a metric if you can't do it again, right? Close only works for hand grenades'n horse shoes.

Hope it helps keep ya sane. It works for me, givin' it a name.

Good luck.

 

[etherealink]

Exactly Mac, thanks for the info Bro.

Too cold for work today so I'm working on my jig and comparing methodologies between constant physical tension and tension applied by hand to a coil with the same specs. I'll keep you all posted with the info as I get them done.

Here goes nothing!

 

[MacTechVpr]

Exactly Mac, thanks for the info Bro.

Too cold for work today so I'm working on my jig and comparing methodologies between constant physical tension and tension applied by hand to a coil with the same specs. I'll keep you all posted with the info as I get them done.

Here goes nothing!

That is a very interesting exercise. One I encourage. A strong man's hand as I recall from my research can generate somewhat over 600 Nm of force in grip strength but only a very small fraction of that say between thumb and forefinger (to form). Forming on a screwdriver was one of the many techniques I experimented with and worked quite well over hand winding but still required torching. I estimated at the time using gauges >28 that you needed somewhere upwards of 192Nm to begin adhesion substantially more with thicker wire. Only the very strongest pro builders I found occasionally got there hand winding on heavier gauges with needle nose pulls to tighten. But none of them consistently. Those who went on to tension and got it readily recognized the difference…if you fall short, or too tight you go hi res. It's a measure of tightness we're looking for.

I'd start simple with a pin vise and thin wire. I recommend it as it's easier to hit the sweet zone. Once you detect it and observe the resulting vape temp's and vapor behavior it starts to become very apparent however, or wherever. Sorta like being a biker, you pick up on 'em everywhere once you're a two wheeler yourself. It's then that you really became the master of diffusion and density, dialing it up as you please.

Good luck.

 

[turbocad6]

i'm pretty anxious to see how much difference it makes from the way I wrap now. I think I have a pretty good understanding of the metallurgy and the science behind forming. to me the difference between formed and formed under tension is only going to be that formed will produce higher percentage of stretch VS compression, maybe 80% stretch and 20% compression at the point of transition were formed, while just formed will wind up being closer to 50/50 but in the end I think as long as it's even and consistent I don't "think" it will make that much of a difference, although now making coils on this thing will be even easier... I hope

here's where it is now, still need to make the flywheel or fly arm for the first leg mounting and then make the sliding feed fixture. I decided to go with 2 speed rather than variable to make it more compact. in use I can see just wanting to start out slow, then once the wind is going, kick it into second for higher torque and speed. it's all self contained, inside of the nickel tube is a dual gear reduction drive and the motor itself... the 18650 battery and usb charger and speed resistor is inside the base, the toggle switch is a spring loaded self return and goes 2 ways for forward and reverse winds, the secondary speed "boost" will be a button on the feed arm. left hand holds the motor tube and actuate the toggle with my thumb then while guiding the feed with my right hand I can press the turbo button to speed things up for the bulk of the wind. it's turning out to be a pretty interesting project you guys got me started on here

 

[muzichead]

i'm pretty anxious to see how much difference it makes from the way I wrap now. I think I have a pretty good understanding of the metallurgy and the science behind forming. to me the difference between formed and formed under tension is only going to be that formed will produce higher percentage of stretch VS compression, maybe 80% stretch and 20% compression at the point of transition were formed, while just formed will wind up being closer to 50/50 but in the end I think as long as it's even and consistent I don't "think" it will make that much of a difference, although now making coils on this thing will be even easier... I hope

here's where it is now, still need to make the flywheel or fly arm for the first leg mounting and then make the sliding feed fixture. I decided to go with 2 speed rather than variable to make it more compact. in use I can see just wanting to start out slow, then once the wind is going, kick it into second for higher torque and speed. it's all self contained, inside of the nickel tube is a dual gear reduction drive and the motor itself... the 18650 battery and usb charger and speed resistor is inside the base, the toggle switch is a spring loaded self return and goes 2 ways for forward and reverse winds, the secondary speed "boost" will be a button on the feed arm. left hand holds the motor tube and actuate the toggle with my thumb then while guiding the feed with my right hand I can press the turbo button to speed things up for the bulk of the wind. it's turning out to be a pretty interesting project you guys got me started on here

Do you ever slow down? Does your brain ever feel slightly overloaded? You are one amazing cat TC6... MacGyver has nothing on you man...

 

[turbocad6]

I like making stuff... keeps me sane, everyones got an outlet, building stuff is mine

 

[MacTechVpr]

i'm pretty anxious to see how much difference it makes from the way I wrap now. I think I have a pretty good understanding of the metallurgy and the science behind forming. to me the difference between formed and formed under tension is only going to be that formed will produce higher percentage of stretch VS compression, maybe 80% stretch and 20% compression at the point of transition were formed, while just formed will wind up being closer to 50/50 but in the end I think as long as it's even and consistent I don't "think" it will make that much of a difference, although now making coils on this thing will be even easier... I hope

here's where it is now, still need to make the flywheel or fly arm for the first leg mounting and then make the sliding feed fixture. I decided to go with 2 speed rather than variable to make it more compact. in use I can see just wanting to start out slow, then once the wind is going, kick it into second for higher torque and speed. it's all self contained, inside of the nickel tube is a dual gear reduction drive and the motor itself... the 18650 battery and usb charger and speed resistor is inside the base, the toggle switch is a spring loaded self return and goes 2 ways for forward and reverse winds, the secondary speed "boost" will be a button on the feed arm. left hand holds the motor tube and actuate the toggle with my thumb then while guiding the feed with my right hand I can press the turbo button to speed things up for the bulk of the wind. it's turning out to be a pretty interesting project you guys got me started on here

Fast work T. There is a precise point at which metal compression yields to strain as tension is applied. Initially there is some deflection. Depends on the alloy and mass. I don't have the math to articulate it. But that honey's prolly got more torque than you're gonna need.



Good luck. News at 5:00?

 

[super_X_drifter]

i'm pretty anxious to see how much difference it makes from the way I wrap now. I think I have a pretty good understanding of the metallurgy and the science behind forming. to me the difference between formed and formed under tension is only going to be that formed will produce higher percentage of stretch VS compression, maybe 80% stretch and 20% compression at the point of transition were formed, while just formed will wind up being closer to 50/50 but in the end I think as long as it's even and consistent I don't "think" it will make that much of a difference, although now making coils on this thing will be even easier... I hope

here's where it is now, still need to make the flywheel or fly arm for the first leg mounting and then make the sliding feed fixture. I decided to go with 2 speed rather than variable to make it more compact. in use I can see just wanting to start out slow, then once the wind is going, kick it into second for higher torque and speed. it's all self contained, inside of the nickel tube is a dual gear reduction drive and the motor itself... the 18650 battery and usb charger and speed resistor is inside the base, the toggle switch is a spring loaded self return and goes 2 ways for forward and reverse winds, the secondary speed "boost" will be a button on the feed arm. left hand holds the motor tube and actuate the toggle with my thumb then while guiding the feed with my right hand I can press the turbo button to speed things up for the bulk of the wind. it's turning out to be a pretty interesting project you guys got me started on here

Damn Turbo. Damn. That's beast. I'm totally ready

 

[Cucco]

This is a silly post, but I am excited. And, I want to share!

Today I was thinking.. In the new house, which kitchen counter top should I mount my Gizmo? Then, a light bulb lit in my head. None! I have an antique sewing table. The kind, where the sewing machine is stored within the table, and is raised out when needed. I don't sew! I am going to replace the sewing machine, with my Gizmo. Useful table by day, 'coiling station' by night! She has drawers to keep my wire and tools. I can't wait to move, and set her up! What fun!

 

[MacTechVpr]

This is a silly post, but I am excited. And, I want to share!

Today I was thinking.. In the new house, which kitchen counter top should I mount my Gizmo? Then, a light bulb lit in my head. None! I have an antique sewing table. The kind, where the sewing machine is stored within the table, and is raised out when needed. I don't sew! I am going to replace the sewing machine, with my Gizmo. Useful table by day, 'coiling station' by night! She has drawers to keep my wire and tools. I can't wait to move, and set her up! What fun!

I love your enthusiasm.



Good luck C.

 

[Bunnykiller]

what is the name of this gizmo and where can it be purchased

that looks like a fly fishing jig.....

 

[Aal_]

Turbo you are one of a kind buddy .... Kudos to you.

 

[etherealink]

Ok, still working on the comparison but I had to order more wire lol. I should have more results shortly, I hope.

 

[etherealink]

And speaking of coil jigs that are small but functional and may have a small implied tension, has anyone seen this?
http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/coil-master-coil-jig

The coil master jig at Lightning Vapes, it works similar to a pin vise but gives you a bit of a lever to help on larger wire... I'm not sold. Just thought I'd share.

 

[jimstratus]

And speaking of coil jigs that are small but functional and may have a small implied tension, has anyone seen this?
http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/coil-master-coil-jig

The coil master jig at Lightning Vapes, it works similar to a pin vise but gives you a bit of a lever to help on larger wire... I'm not sold. Just thought I'd share.

Super X did a video review of that one not long ago on YouTube. Worth watching if you haven't seen it if for no reason other than to see if it's what you might be looking for.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[etherealink]

Super X did a video review of that one not long ago on YouTube. Worth watching if you haven't seen it if for no reason other than to see if it's what you might be looking for.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Can't say I see it actually creating tension in a linear sense, solid design though.

 

[jimstratus]

Can't say I see it actually creating tension in a linear sense, solid design though.

You are right used as designed there would be no tension. I'm experimenting with a kuro koiler which for all intents and purposes is the same thing and tension is possible but still playing with it. I mentioned the video review so you could see it in action even though without a doubt it is not for Super X to put a short summary on it.

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