That was my thought...... I have 2 or 3 old deep sea rigs, that I don't use any more.....
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
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That was my thought...... I have 2 or 3 old deep sea rigs, that I don't use any more.....
If you can find some way to dampen that weight, mediate the force, that is very helpful. It's a lot of weight for the gizmo. It's a lot more weight than one might think as you have to consider the downward force of air pressure/sq. in. on it's surface as well to calc the total force applied. And too much will mess up your vape. Reals.
Good luck.
If you're gonna use weights, what about lead fishing weights? They come in lots of sizes/weights......
Problem is the exact amount of weight? What is it? Depends on the gauge. Each wire has a pretty wide window of tension you can dial into that's enough to keep it tight. Much tighter then the wire begins to stretch and thin. This adds resistance making the wire less efficient…not optimally matched to it's resistance.
So there's a low side where the wires are just touching and getting too hot (a short). And a high side too that will result in the same for all intents and purposes.
Blue the most amazing discovery I made working tests out with average peeps is that at least with thin wire we can learn that point for thinner gauges just hand winding on a screwdriver. Kind of shocked me when I discovered that. But when you think about it just how sensitive we are to small changes comparing it to say a fishing line you may see what I mean. So how can we do that for thicker gauges? The weights are a good idea. Trial and error. It's an easy test to try a couple'a lbs with like 27 AWG and see if it sticks. If not, and they separate or show spacing, try more. If it runs too hot, like showin' you very hot end-to-end turns at low voltage or hot leads it won't vape well. It starts to behave like a loose post.
That's the round up Blue. Take your best shot and see if you can find the zone. If you do post the weight and your rig for the rest of us.
Best of luck there B.
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It was a thought for those wanting to try coiling with weights..... They could add or take off them.... And it went together with using a fishing reel, too...
I'm just starting, picked up a Coil Gizmo last night & made some using the Spool & a piece of foam.... Like Russ was doing before......
Don't know if I got tension or just got them to lay nice next to each other....
Had to make extras, as a couple of them, were cut by the center screw on My new LL Odin......
I'm just starting, picked up a Coil Gizmo last night & made some using the Spool & a piece of foam.... Like Russ was doing before......
Don't know if I got tension or just got them to lay nice next to each other....
Had to make extras, as a couple of them, were cut by the center screw on My new LL Odin......
A little experience will narrow the zone for you on the effect. Vapor production boost is always welcome. More vapor, more flavor. Density increases and you'll see a cooler vape output. That more than anything confirms the spike in vaporization. When you feel that cool density you'll know you hit it.
Now, that doesn't mean you have to vape cool. What you've accomplished is getting the most vapor from the wind. Now you can find your temperature sweet spot with it. Since the wire's producing the optimal efficiency based on your coil dia and wicking preference it will translate to whatever wind you do. That means more overall production at whatever temperature you prefer.
Many folks, me too, find that they can tolerate a lower res (or higher wattage) with a tensioned wind. So it helped me discover that I could enjoy the other two ends of resistance.
There you have it. Good luck B!
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I had to make sure it worked right, but now I have a new 3/32" fig made up for my homemade coiling jig so I can get some tensioned coils for my 3mm RxW. I think cost was like $3 total...
All I can say is I am all for TMC's!
I've never had this amount of performance consistently!
My current is 3 weeks in with perhaps 5 or 6 re-wicks... this coil just keeps on a rockin!
I've never had this amount of performance consistently!
My current is 3 weeks in with perhaps 5 or 6 re-wicks... this coil just keeps on a rockin!
Lifted from my remarks on Get yerself some micro right here
A footnote, just sayin'. Key feature of a micro, contrary to popular myth, is that they don't fire inside-out. What tension does is put 'em right smack up against each other pullin' in arm-to-arm. Like The Rockettes kickin'! That's what perfects the micro. Gettin' 'em as close as they can be. When you pulse them then that's when the nature does the best work they oxidize in that superbly uniform state. Result? You get that even heat distribution that you see. And, the best part, the more you use them, the more that stabilizes. ALL vape elements can warp or twist out of shape with the rigorous reheating of vaporization. Tension winds lock in that symmetrical geometry inhibiting distortion in use and so run cooler. That efficient concentration hugely bumps the heat sink effect of the wick and coil. You have a finely mated union of the concentrated heating surface of a microcoil with the tension optimized uniformity of electron flow. A perfect recipe for enhanced vaporization. That's what a tensioned micro coil does.
Hope ya gotcha some.
Good luck.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!
!Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Really nice work, Mac.........
Don't remember ever seeing one so evenly heat, ie...picture three.....!
A footnote, just sayin'. Key feature of a micro, contrary to popular myth, is that they don't fire inside-out. What tension does is put 'em right smack up against each other pullin' in arm-to-arm. Like The Rockettes kickin'! That's what perfects the micro. Gettin' 'em as close as they can be. When you pulse them then that's when the nature does the best work they oxidize in that superbly uniform state. Result? You get that even heat distribution that you see. And, the best part, the more you use them, the more that stabilizes. ALL vape elements can warp or twist out of shape with the rigorous reheating of vaporization. Tension winds lock in that symmetrical geometry inhibiting distortion in use and so run cooler. That efficient concentration hugely bumps the heat sink effect of the wick and coil. You have a finely mated union of the concentrated heating surface of a microcoil with the tension optimized uniformity of electron flow. A perfect recipe for enhanced vaporization. That's what a tensioned micro coil does.
Hope ya gotcha some.
Good luck.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!
!Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Please enlighten me, aren't this just microcoils??? at least that's the way I made them
Two ways to make a micro. The first compression. The latter strain. Tension gets 'em together without compression or torching. Takes seconds. Doesn't disfigure the wire with small pressure gaps or carbonize the surface (which inhibits alumina formation btw). It's the latter we want. As uniform a ceramic layer as possible. Alumina is heat conductive like a baking dish. Exactly what we want. It's also non-conductive. Also what we need to prevent electron jump through small micro layers of alumina that aren't thick enough. In other words, no surer way to perfect the geometry. Lots more on this in the early posts to this thread.
What we're looking for is the closest proximity of the wire. No better way to get there but leverage. You can add tension by pulling on the wire but it's nowhere near as uniform than with strain using a pin vise or jig like the gizmo. Gaps, insufficient oxidation and differences in strain in parts of the wind are all instances that can and will go hot in operation. It affects your res and performance. Too many and the vape goes diffuse and hot. Same with too much tension. So it's a measure of tightness we're looking for. Just beyond the point of closest proximity.
Another way to look at this is finding the point that the wire is at its optimal resistance for the mass of wire not too hot on either side. The amazing thing is that the human hand and mind can find that zone. Prolly better than most of my cartometers.
Good luck to ya V.
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Just built my very first tmc for a protank head. I did 10 wraps Kanthal 29g with the help of a Pin Vise. Apart from the outer two winds I'm pretty happy with it. Although it came out a little high at 1.6Ohm (so rod must have been 1.5mm) I'm pretty happy with it. I've wicked it a bit too tightly with KGD, but anyways the coil seems to be pretty forgiving as I tested it with even 5V w/o getting a burnt hit.
As the tmc is a lot shorter than previous wound spaced coils, should I rather opt for lower gauge wire to make up for it, or doesn't it really matter that the tmc overall covers less wick?
As the tmc is a lot shorter than previous wound spaced coils, should I rather opt for lower gauge wire to make up for it, or doesn't it really matter that the tmc overall covers less wick?
Congrats. As you can see they are tight. More wire mass means best use of the vape space. You compromise that with spacing having to go thicker and throw more power at it (and wasted juice along with that). The word cool, you now know its meaning…vaporization.
I run 'em down to 24 AWG <.25Ω. Much denser which you can AFC with good AF at the device or tip to make some serious volume. They run cooler and more stable so you can drop Ω nice and still handle the hit. Lack throat hit, up the nic or pg slightly. There are DIY tools for this. No need to settle for mediocrity. Anyone interested in clouds and flavor density with…there's your answer.
Don't know what all this fascination is with corrugated wire on ECF of late but these things blow rings around 'em. More vaporization less dissipation…that's my motto. Do the math.
Good luck wicked. Poke us if need be.
p.s. Wind a few down to 26AWG. Make sure you get to sticky.. It's a bit harder with 25< and a gizmo (or sim) is useful.
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Mac, with a slightly modified gizmo and some weight I'm getting some solid results down to 20ga ni80 even.
Thought I'd share lol.
Thought I'd share lol.
Congrats. As you can see they are tight. More wire mass means best use of the vape space. You compromise that with spacing having to go thicker and throw more power at it (and wasted juice along with that). The word cool, you now know its meaning…vaporization.
I run 'em down to 24 AWG <.25Ω. Much denser which you can AFC with good AF at the device or tip to make some serious volume. They run cooler and more stable so you can drop Ω nice and still handle the hit. Lack throat hit, up the nic or pg slightly. There are DIY tools for this. No need to settle for mediocrity. Anyone interested in clouds and flavor density with…there's your answer.
Don't know what all this fascination is with corrugated wire on ECF of late but these things blow rings around 'em. More vaporization less dissipation…that's my motto. Do the math.
Good luck wicked. Poke us if need be.
p.s. Wind a few down to 26AWG. Make sure you get to sticky.. It's a bit harder with 25< and a gizmo (or sim) is useful.
So are you suggesting a 14 wrap 26AWG is better than a 7 wrap 29AWG (for example) ? This is something I've often wondered seeing as lots seem to use an 8 wrap as the "industry standard" but then I read that greater surface area is also preferred. I get confused easily!!!
More surface area at the same resistance and power will vaporize more juice per cycle
That's what I was gettin' at. So double the number of wraps with a thicker wire to achieve the same resistance as half the wraps with a thinner wire will produce a denser cooler more flavorful vapour?(at the same power) Right???
That's good news ether. Keepin' tension and rotation up is hard for some of us. Thicker wire can make it a challenge. Trick is learning to detect the level of strain pulling the wire off the spool. Or, if you use a needle nose or such. Fingers are far more sensitive than the wrist. Still the brain's an amazing thing.
Object lesson a few days back when I wound a 24 thinkin' it was 26. I fell short on two turns on two sides of the coil. Wasn't much of a difference but just enough to make 'em stand out like sore thumbs. If we really look at our coils, learn to distinguish the subtle differences in coil color temperature you will see exactly why your micro's not goin' full t.m.c. from the jump. It may be imperfections in the wire but often it's just a subtle variation in our wind. Imperfections are often cured with just the right level of strain. They'll show up in the set if tension's not consistent (inconsistent turn-to-turn pull). Not only does this make it tedious to square away but it may never operate at the best resistance. And you'll see the result in the smoothness of the vape.
Even if you're not using fat wire, if you're having problems with variation switching off to the gizmo can help.
Thx E.
Good luck.
Object lesson a few days back when I wound a 24 thinkin' it was 26. I fell short on two turns on two sides of the coil. Wasn't much of a difference but just enough to make 'em stand out like sore thumbs. If we really look at our coils, learn to distinguish the subtle differences in coil color temperature you will see exactly why your micro's not goin' full t.m.c. from the jump. It may be imperfections in the wire but often it's just a subtle variation in our wind. Imperfections are often cured with just the right level of strain. They'll show up in the set if tension's not consistent (inconsistent turn-to-turn pull). Not only does this make it tedious to square away but it may never operate at the best resistance. And you'll see the result in the smoothness of the vape.
Even if you're not using fat wire, if you're having problems with variation switching off to the gizmo can help.
Thx E.
Good luck.
Do keep in mind it will probably take double the time for the coil to heat up with that many wraps...
Isn't the heatflux dropping a lot when you're not upping the power in this scenario?
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