So I guess I do not quite understand. It is the video super_x_drifter posted that I followed. Is that not the correct way to wind a proper microcoil?
BP you prolly got the wind right but but supe and I really need to delve a bit more into the process of describing oxidation. When the micro started everybody was torching to get the coils together. Supe's method with the gizmo gets to adhesion (closest proximity) as well as tension winding with a pin vise does. But…the purpose of both is to get 'em close enough together to pulse instead of torch. There's where things go sideways for the video reviewers. It's not a pop it once or twice process at max voltage. And that's where you might have ended up hot with your build even though you likely did pretty well with the wind.
You're also better off trying to get one nailed down with a more workable gauge like 28 AWG and somewhat higher res as you suggested. A few more examples and you'll have the benefit of seeing more of what I describe below. Powering through to a micro in one or two pulses with a fresh batt or high var V/W won't do it.
Turns need to be close enough, tight enough tho not too much, for even oxidation to take place. When it does start to take hold the micro will start heating evenly from end-to-end rather than inside out (see sequence below). Thereafter, it will actually heat from outside in, lol, with the center only heating (or overheating) at higher voltages. In other words, the behavior of the coil changes and it starts to run a lot cooler even at relatively high voltage. That is the goal. And two things are required — closest proximity and patient pulsing to oxidation.
During this brief process at progressively increasing voltage (and/or pulse time) small imperfections reveal themselves. These variations in contact and wind diameter will cure with continued pulsing or with a nudge of slight pressure with a ceramic tweazer. More compression especially at high heat which we all used to do can actually put small bends in the wire which creates gaps often too small to see. Then the wind will fall short of thorough oxidation. The more of these imperfections exist the further away from uniform performance of the wind we go. And frequently you can see whether the coil's likely to go uniform within a few pulses at low voltage (say 3.4v @ 1.8Ω, higher if needed dependent on how much lower coil res is). If any dark spot defects or obvious gaps exist it's easier and far less headache to just wind another one. That's the charm of a t.m.c. They're that easy to roll out and wire's cheap. That's it in a nutshell. The objective of a t.m.c. is uniform oxidation. The payoff, uniform heat transmission.
BP most properly tensioned coils will go micro within a couple'a three low-V pulses with little compression (if any) if the tension applied in the wind was consistent. Some sections of wire can contain enough irregularities that it's not worth it. It's this process of insulation which exposes that.
When you succeed in getting the pulsing straight the coil will go in exactly the opposite direction than you experienced cooling down rapidly (increased vaporization rate) and evidencing an increase in vapor density.
Good luck BP!



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