The Billow v2!

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Haylon357

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maybe the cotton running through the spring has to be tight on this system. Normally on other systems if the cotton is too tight you will get dry hits.
Maybe a not-so-tight cotton in this system is causing the leaks. Yesterday I was convinced that the length of protruding cotton on either side of the coils may have had something to do with leaking, so I shortened my cotton. Today I still get leakage with short cotton, but have not paid much attention to the tightness of cotton or the diameter of cotton which passes through the coil.
Either way, this rta is a moving target. Another possibility is the lower watts/voltages I use (12~14 watts). This could also be a root cause. They should have called this Fountain v2 instead of Billow.
I had problems with wicking when I first got mine. My buddy wicked it for me the first time. Had it vaping like a champ with in 5 mins. I tried and tried to duplicate the process. I either got anemic hits or flooding. Finally someone here in the forum explained it in a way that I understood. I tried one last time and walla. I haven't used anything but the Billow v2. If you're still having problems when I get off of work tonight, I will try my best to tell/show you what works for me if you're interested.

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Robert Stevens

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Aug 28, 2015
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I had problems forever with mine. I eventually discovered how to do it, but explaining it would be hard for me. When it comes to length less is more. I use rayon and do indeed pack it tight in the coil. I then cut the wick ends to a arrow style point and stick the tip of the arrow in the channel. I screw the chimney on just one thread and use a small pick to push the wick back up into the channel instead of getting forced down in. Once the chimney is all the way on I then push on the top of the wicks to make it cap off the juice channels. If you can make sense of that, it works well for me.
 

quovadis

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Thanks for your input.
The problem I have is that it will not leak for a certain amount of time, then suddenly it will start leaking. Liquid simply pours out of the bottom air holes. It is very hard to understand a system that leaks from time to time. Another problem I have is that my ecig "eleaf mini 30 watt, does not work with any resistance under 0.5 ohms. This means I have to use 29 or 30 ga. If i use 26ga, I have to do too many turns in coil, and the coil ends up being too long. I will try a thinner tipped cotton, cut short. I will also try to make the cotton diameter tight within the coil.
I have built the coils and cotton about 25 times in 3 days, and every build has leaked at some point or another with the billow.
I have about 15 other rta's here, ranging from russian, kayfun, 4 kangers, lemos etc...they are all single coil devices but not one has leaked. I'm at a loss here
 

Robert Stevens

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The leaking happened to me too, and how I fixed it was forming the wick away from the air channels so it doesn't leech into them, while still making sure I pushed the wick down through the attached chimney to cap it all the way and prevent leaking. The arrow point cut I make in the wick is to fashion a "cork" of sorts that I gently press into the opening from above after I have seated it properly. Remember however, that I use rayon, and it does not expand after being saturated. That along with its long parallel fibers I believe make it the best wicking material for the billow build, although I have been successful in wicking with cotton of all varieties.
 
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quovadis

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questions :
1. How far up is the coil above the air hole? Does this make a difference? Mine is quite high up, toward the top of the posts. Good ? bad?
2. The tip of the cotton should go how far down the juice channels?

We have determined we need a thinner cotton/rayon going into the juice channel, so it needs to be twisted/rolled between the two thumbs quite a bit. Correct?
 

Robert Stevens

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Dont feel bad, it flustered me forever until I found my way with it.

My coils hover about 4 mil above the holes, I think lowering them might get you a cooler vape.

the tip of the cotton just extends down into the channel a few mm at most, and its important that it isnt crammed down in. The taper of the arrow point cut is meant to cap it like a cork along the edges, but not tight like one.
 

Robert Stevens

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Aug 28, 2015
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questions :
1. How far up is the coil above the air hole? Does this make a difference? Mine is quite high up, toward the top of the posts. Good ? bad?
2. The tip of the cotton should go how far down the juice channels?

We have determined we need a thinner cotton/rayon going into the juice channel, so it needs to be twisted/rolled between the two thumbs quite a bit. Correct?

Rolling and twisting your cotton will impede the juice wicking flow. Rayon does not suffer from compression so it might work, but twisting isnt the idea, its cutting a point, and not a very long point at that perhaps just like this symbol > maybe even stubbier by a hair
 

gone3uo6

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Turned one of my Billows into a micro chamber RDA LOL. It is by far the best flavor chasing RDA yet! As you can see in the pic, I took the tank off, cut a small piece of poly tubing and placed that on top of the chimney. I drop right into the chamber from the top. About 5 drops does it. Excellent for testing DIY's.
90764f4adf714213a1aaba670f6ece87.jpg



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gone3uo6

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questions :
1. How far up is the coil above the air hole? Does this make a difference? Mine is quite high up, toward the top of the posts. Good ? bad?
2. The tip of the cotton should go how far down the juice channels?

We have determined we need a thinner cotton/rayon going into the juice channel, so it needs to be twisted/rolled between the two thumbs quite a bit. Correct?

I cut fairly long strips of wick so I can twist one end without affecting the rest of wick. I pull the wick through to the point where I can trim the twisted end off. I then continue to trim the ends after wetting the wick with straight PG (just makes it easier IMO). Tuck the ends down onto the deck with just a little in the big section of the juice channels with a small flathead screwdriver. It will be OK if not the entire end of the wick is touching the deck. I cut the ends fairly short with just the bottom of the wicks able to touch the channels.
519cbcddeff4c5491330eb99589d6113.jpg



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quovadis

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It seems you are using 24 ga wire there? Am i correct? I tried 24 and 26 ga, but my ecig will not allow for less than 0.5 ohms resistance, and that means too many turns with 24 and 26.
Have to use 29 minimum. Also your coil is well spaced out, which would take up additional space since i would need 11 turns.
I'm wondering if the fact that I'm using thinner wire has to do anything with leaking.
I use istick mini's 30 watt, and they do not allow anything under 0.5~0.6 ohms.
 

gone3uo6

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It seems you are using 24 ga wire there? Am i correct? I tried 24 and 26 ga, but my ecig will not allow for less than 0.5 ohms resistance, and that means too many turns with 24 and 26.
Have to use 29 minimum. Also your coil is well spaced out, which would take up additional space since i would need 11 turns.
I'm wondering if the fact that I'm using thinner wire has to do anything with leaking.
I use istick mini's 30 watt, and they do not allow anything under 0.5~0.6 ohms.

26ga ti01 6 wraps (I prefer 7 now) at 0.125 ohms. Just works better if spaced out. Wire thickness has nothing to do with leaking. Mine haven't leaked yet which is a wicking issue. Be sure to keep your wick ends out of your air holes and to have at least a little bit of your wick sitting in the large section of the juice channels. Also, I recommend getting an IPV4, IPV D2...something that can handle lower resistance and titanium wire.

I've fit 26ga kanthal 9 wraps in there with tight spacing before.... 2.5mm ID which is also a good setup IMO. I think that should come out above 0.5ohms


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CaliVaper

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Here's my 2nd build on the Bv2. 26g Spider Silk Ti wire. This is my first TC build, and first time using titanium wire for anything. I got to say, working with this Ti wire is super easy. There's almost no springy-ness in the wire. I was able to straighten out the length of wire I cut just by running it through my fingers a few times. I torqued the screws down quite a bit and had no problems at all with wire snapping.

Been vaping on this build for about an hour and no leaks yet. Previously I had a build with some super thin ribbon wire I had laying around forever. Just wanted to try out the RTA while I waited for the Spider Silk to come in the mail. It only leaked once, but I tipped it over when the tank was low on juice (could of messed with the vacuum?) It didn't leak immediately but once the juice level was all the way down to the Juice flow channels on the bottom of the chimney. After cleaning it up and refilling, I vaped it down to almost empty again, and it didn't leak. Both of these builds I mentioned used the same thin juice; 80pg/20vg

Billow V2 Ti Build 1-1.JPG


Billow V2 Ti Build 1-2.JPG


Billow V2 Ti Build 1-3.JPG


Billow V2 Ti Build 1-4.JPG


Billow V2 Ti Build 1-5.JPG


Billow V2 Ti Build 1-6.JPG
 
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Haylon357

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Can anyone help. Im using 30g nickel 10 wraps to get 0.09 ohms on my ipvd2 450f and 25 joules. My screws are tightened. I notice only 1 side of the coil is gunked. Meaning it is the only side firing. Why is this so?
I would say your not getting a good connection. Did you wrap the wire around the screw heads or did you run them through the post holes

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