Glad you got it going. I thought that was your problem and glad Tony was quick to get back to you. The Kuwako should be available next week sometime.
The Echo Thread
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Glad you got it going. I thought that was your problem and glad Tony was quick to get back to you. The Kuwako should be available next week sometime.
Got some goodies yesterday
Iken vape XL 2.0 ohm 808s
Filled one up, works great on the Echo. Basically like a gen 2 horizontal coil on steroids
IKV vision 2.0 ohm 510 2.5 ml
This thing is a beast on my Riva 510. Chris at gotvapes sent me two adaptors, one that he modded for me with slots on the threads and post, and one unmodded.
With the unmodded adaptor on the Echo, it pretty much won't fire
With the modded adaptor on the Echo, it fires, but I have to suck like nobodies business to get the Echo to fire, and I can't keep it going for more than 1 second or so.
Need to run some tests later and see what the issue is. Not sure if its an airflow issue leading to sticky switch activation, or if the Echo just doesn't like 2.0 ohms (gonna pull out the multimeter and verify that this is actually the resistance of the IKVision).
I know going UNDER 2.0 ohms is pushing it, but I'd be pretty upset to find out that the Echo doesn't fire a 2.0 ohm cartomizer with its 1100 mAh!
Iken vape XL 2.0 ohm 808s
Filled one up, works great on the Echo. Basically like a gen 2 horizontal coil on steroids
IKV vision 2.0 ohm 510 2.5 ml
This thing is a beast on my Riva 510. Chris at gotvapes sent me two adaptors, one that he modded for me with slots on the threads and post, and one unmodded.
With the unmodded adaptor on the Echo, it pretty much won't fire
With the modded adaptor on the Echo, it fires, but I have to suck like nobodies business to get the Echo to fire, and I can't keep it going for more than 1 second or so.
Need to run some tests later and see what the issue is. Not sure if its an airflow issue leading to sticky switch activation, or if the Echo just doesn't like 2.0 ohms (gonna pull out the multimeter and verify that this is actually the resistance of the IKVision).
I know going UNDER 2.0 ohms is pushing it, but I'd be pretty upset to find out that the Echo doesn't fire a 2.0 ohm cartomizer with its 1100 mAh!
You could try taking out the silicone in the adapter, it would open up airflow better. I would suggest doing it to the non-cut adapter as you do not want to ruin your new prized possesion! BTW did he cut the hole thing or did he pull out the center post and cut in and reinsert? Cutting it with the base too would cause too much air flow in from the sides and not enough to activate the battery. Maybe.Got some goodies yesterday
Iken vape XL 2.0 ohm 808s
Filled one up, works great on the Echo. Basically like a gen 2 horizontal coil on steroids
IKV vision 2.0 ohm 510 2.5 ml
This thing is a beast on my Riva 510. Chris at gotvapes sent me two adaptors, one that he modded for me with slots on the threads and post, and one unmodded.
With the unmodded adaptor on the Echo, it pretty much won't fire
With the modded adaptor on the Echo, it fires, but I have to suck like nobodies business to get the Echo to fire, and I can't keep it going for more than 1 second or so.
Need to run some tests later and see what the issue is. Not sure if its an airflow issue leading to sticky switch activation, or if the Echo just doesn't like 2.0 ohms (gonna pull out the multimeter and verify that this is actually the resistance of the IKVision).
I know going UNDER 2.0 ohms is pushing it, but I'd be pretty upset to find out that the Echo doesn't fire a 2.0 ohm cartomizer with its 1100 mAh!
Thank you for the suggestion ! I'll explore that wen I get home tn
I'm not sure what you're getting at wrt to the cuts... Could you try my dumb brain again? Lol
I'll post pics when I get home. Basically I showed him the pic of the modded adaptor earlier in this thread and asked him to mimic it
I'm not sure what you're getting at wrt to the cuts... Could you try my dumb brain again? Lol
I'll post pics when I get home. Basically I showed him the pic of the modded adaptor earlier in this thread and asked him to mimic it
Ah yes, the modded adapter pictured in this thread is cut straight through the base and the center post that touches the battery. I believe the original poster mentioned he needed to close off part of the created slots on the sides of the base of the adapter with tape. I was wondering if yours looked like his, because I thought (in a little unfounded theory) that it might be more efficient to remove the center metal post and just put the slot into that like it is on A carto. So i was just curious which he did, but i'm guessing he just cut through the whole thing. Not sure if the adapter "needs" slots as deep as the one posted on the outer sides of the base.
Hi all,
Got a slight problem maybe you can suggest a remedy. It might be listed here in this thread but to be honest there are too many pages to read. I bought the EGO W set. I poured the same 24mg USA mix in them. One works like a dream, great th and vapor but the other is weak in comparison. I tried switching batteries but no luck. I read somewhere that the clearomizer might have a pinched wick or not enough liquid flow but the rubber thing is too tightly fitted and am scared of tearing it. I even tried blocking one of the air holes to minimise the air flow, got slightly better hit but too much effort to inhale. Any suggestions??
Got a slight problem maybe you can suggest a remedy. It might be listed here in this thread but to be honest there are too many pages to read. I bought the EGO W set. I poured the same 24mg USA mix in them. One works like a dream, great th and vapor but the other is weak in comparison. I tried switching batteries but no luck. I read somewhere that the clearomizer might have a pinched wick or not enough liquid flow but the rubber thing is too tightly fitted and am scared of tearing it. I even tried blocking one of the air holes to minimise the air flow, got slightly better hit but too much effort to inhale. Any suggestions??
Now I see what you're saying
I'll try covering the base holes and see if that does it
Maybe try your trick with the unmodded adaptor as well and swap the post out for an 808 carto post
So have people verified that echos can fire on the lower side of 2ish ohms?
I don't know what the c rating of echo batts is but it could be that they simply can't tolerate high amperage drain
I'll try covering the base holes and see if that does it
Maybe try your trick with the unmodded adaptor as well and swap the post out for an 808 carto post
So have people verified that echos can fire on the lower side of 2ish ohms?
I don't know what the c rating of echo batts is but it could be that they simply can't tolerate high amperage drain
I think you are far better off to use the Echo Carto with the Echo auto. They are made for one another. If you want to use other LR cartos you would be better off using another battery. I think you are correct in the fact they don't tolerate high amp drain.
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Someone on here might be able to help you but you posted in the wrong thread this is the Echo thread.
Received my new 1100mah battery today. Lots of differences besides being stealth. 10-12 second cutoff. Draw is similar except for fact that it's brand new. It's longer than my regular HSecho 1100. The biggest difference is probably the most revealing. All four of my other black echo batteries have a glossy metal finish. This one is matte rubberized black.
The rubberized finish fits better in my kuwako and actually matches it better. I haven't used it long enough to see how it functions in it.
Tomorrow I will be using it more in the kuwako as well as the one functioning good DCC I have. It measures 1.7ohm since I cleaned it up and sometimes trips the cutoff of my other 1100 especially if I puff, puff, puff, puff, non stop and get the battery hot....and does so even faster in the Kuwako.
The rubberized finish fits better in my kuwako and actually matches it better. I haven't used it long enough to see how it functions in it.
Tomorrow I will be using it more in the kuwako as well as the one functioning good DCC I have. It measures 1.7ohm since I cleaned it up and sometimes trips the cutoff of my other 1100 especially if I puff, puff, puff, puff, non stop and get the battery hot....and does so even faster in the Kuwako.
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My first test on this stealth. I remembered some comments on the failure points of these. I covered the pinhole with a finger and the battery would not work. This is going to be a new maintenance point for these. Keep the pinhole clear and these should work just fine. This battery may stay exclusive to the kuwako so I know I won't get pocket debris in the pinhole. Even if I don't feel like rockin the kuwako, it will be how it's stored in my pocket. Hopefully this info is helpful to some in the future. Might have helped some who had issues with these in the past, if we had figured it out. Poor Bill-the supplier no more- ate it a lot on these.
Not sure this is appropriate but my friend Steve is having a contest @ http://www.stevevape.com/vape-aversary-blowout-contest/
Take a look to see if it's something that may interest you.
Errol
Take a look to see if it's something that may interest you.
Errol
So this may be common knowledge but I did not realize this until now. The silver ring below the battery connection on the echo 808 auto batteries is smaller on my 650 when compared to my 1300. I realized this because my faux echo cone made from a gutted carto fits snugly on the 1300 but sides over the 650 so loosely that it will not stay on the battery on its own.
Some progress
So I took the modded adaptor with the slots in the threads and the post, took out the post, and stuck it in the unmodded adaptor
so that's 510 on one side, 901 on the other, with a slot in the post, but no slots in the threads
works much better with my 510 fluxos 2.4-2.6 ohms. Not perfect, but almost perfect. Its still a bit airy, but the fluxos are a bit airy inherently. I slid a fluxo cone (from got vapes, which essentially looks like a gutted Echo ECC) over it, draw got tighter and better. stuffed some tissue between the fluxo and cone, pretty much perfect. I get a lungful of vapor on 2-3 second draw
slotted post + slotted threads = no go
slotted post + unslotted threads = win
unslotted + unslotted = epic fail
I'm having some issues with my newly purchased wally world multimeter. the readings go ballistic at times. with many of my carts it wigs out for a moment, reading starts way to high, then slowly comes down to the correct reading and stabilizes
on the Iturbos, and all the Echo carts (just got a DCC and single from Tony today) I can't get a stable read at all. its just flying all over the place.
thoughts?
interesting. my gutted DCC slides over the 1100 silver shiny part, kind of loosely. not snug at all
are your thread holes aligned with the battery post hole?
(we really SHOULD revolt against this sealed BS, as per your comment in another thread. i decided to sacrifice a halo batt to science the other day. dremelled right through the battery hole and made it a double hole. unfortunately I pulled the post up too high and broke the soldering point. Opened the entire thing up. I'm going to resolder, plug the two post pinholes, and drill a hole down the center to make it 'unsealed' and see what happens)
yep it is definitely SNUG on the 1300, I would guess that the 1100 is between the two sizes.
Really glad to hear you got an adapter working well.
thanks SLEL!
So here's another thing
Tony's DCC is unlabeled and the casing is slightly fatter than the one I got from Victoria. The latter was labeled HS ECHO DCC or something like that (can't be bothered to get up and look again)
And the cropduster DCC DESTROYS the labeled one. Its hotter, easier draw, more flavor, WOAH
So here's another thing
Tony's DCC is unlabeled and the casing is slightly fatter than the one I got from Victoria. The latter was labeled HS ECHO DCC or something like that (can't be bothered to get up and look again)
And the cropduster DCC DESTROYS the labeled one. Its hotter, easier draw, more flavor, WOAH
But if that's true, than what's up with the DCCs? Isn't there net resistance 1.7 ohm or something?
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