The Echo Thread

[Charlz]

Some more demonic possession occurred of my emily rose Echo today

Took it out, fully charged (it had been sitting for a week). Screwed a carto on, had to suck HARD to get but a whisper of vapor. Ah, here we go again I thought.

I charged it for a few minutes, and voila, it was working perfectly again. LOL.

Then later on, it started acting up again. This time charging it didn't do squat. I decided to start playing with the post. I rotated it a bit to change the position of the pin hole. Got much better. Being who I am, I decided to go for broke and rotated more. Broke the connection. Removed the head, fished out the wire and resoldered it to the post.

Screwed the carto on, same issue. Had to suck like a reverse hurricane to get anything. Then I had a thought...maybe these things just have insensitive/sticky switches (the component that detects airflow)?

I've had this issue with many autos, and there is a simple little fix. I took a sliver of tissue paper and wrapped it around the battery post about 80% of the way around (between the post and the outer rim). Screwed the carto on, perfect. I just touch the thing now and it responds.

Sooooo....a mysterious, intermittent issue of switch activation that is randomly fixed by 1) rotating the post 2) a 5 minute charge 3) tightening up the air flow with a piece of tissue paper.....LOL

This is why manuals have grown on me over the past few weeks

I think you and I are the only ones left using the echos from that bad batch. Mine has been relatively unpossessed and in rotation now with the rest. Every once in a while the battery is hard to activate but either I leave it for awhile or charge it up and it goes away. I'm still not sure these were really echos. Echos don't behave this way and none of them anywhere ever had a 10 second cutoff.

 

[Heavy119]

I have two of the Echo 1300 mAh batteries. They both work well, but one of them seems to take forever to charge. I mean forever, so long that I asked for an RMA # from the vendor, and got one, but I'm not sure whether I should return it (kind of a hassle...I guess I'm lazy too). I put it on the charger and it takes so long for the light to turn green that I think to myself "that's it, gonna return it", then the light goes green (maybe it understands my thoughts.....twilight zone music). Oh well, that's my rant for today.

 

[Charlz]

the 1300 should take 8 hrs to charge fully if you have the 150 mah charger. If you have the stealth with the 300 mah charger it should take about 5.

 

[Heavy119]

I have a 300 mAh charger and a 420 mAh charger.....on either charger the one battery takes 10-12 hours to charge. I just got the RMA to return it the other day, but I am not sure whether I should since eventually it does charge.

 

[txtumbleweed]

I have two of the Echo 1300 mAh batteries. They both work well, but one of them seems to take forever to charge. I mean forever, so long that I asked for an RMA # from the vendor, and got one, but I'm not sure whether I should return it (kind of a hassle...I guess I'm lazy too). I put it on the charger and it takes so long for the light to turn green that I think to myself "that's it, gonna return it", then the light goes green (maybe it understands my thoughts.....twilight zone music). Oh well, that's my rant for today.

You say you are waiting for the light to turn green. How about the led on the end of battery does it go out?

 

[Heavy119]

You say you are waiting for the light to turn green. How about the led on the end of battery does it go out?

Not sure, I don't believe it does, but next charge I'll check.

Let me put on on charge now.

 

[Heavy119]

I have two of these chargers:
808-eGo USB Charger - 420ma

and two of these:
Echo/Vgo USB Charger - 300ma

And I use a wall adapter to charge them. Figured it would be quicker/better than using u.s.b. port, is that correct?

 

[Charlz]

You shouldn't be using the 420mah battery on the echo. Only use the charger designed for the battery. I already used a different charger for my echo once and it acted funny ever since. There is a little technology now in these chargers and batteries such as overcharge protection and how much the charger charges up to before it shuts off, and what voltage the battery will sit on the charger off load when done charging.

Ego type batteries are designed to take a charge input of 420mah. Even the 808 threaded egos. Echo batteries are not. Not only do you run the risk of overheating your echo during charge, but messing up it's internal circuitry which results in symptoms as you describe. I'd be more afraid of the first one.

Notice than one charger is 120mah less per hour. That will add up to longer charge time but try to be patient. One 1300 mah battery will charge faster at 300 mah than you can deplete one.

 

[Heavy119]

You shouldn't be using the 420mah battery on the echo. Only use the charger designed for the battery. I already used a different charger for my echo once and it acted funny ever since. There is a little technology now in these chargers and batteries such as overcharge protection and how much the charger charges up to before it shuts off, and what voltage the battery will sit on the charger off load when done charging.

Ego type batteries are designed to take a charge input of 420mah. Even the 808 threaded egos. Echo batteries are not. Not only do you run the risk of overheating your echo during charge, but messing up it's internal circuitry which results in symptoms as you describe. I'd be more afraid of the first one.

Notice than one charger is 120mah less per hour. That will add up to longer charge time but try to be patient. One 1300 mah battery will charge faster at 300 mah than you can deplete one.

Ok.Thanks for the info.

 

[Heavy119]

You say you are waiting for the light to turn green. How about the led on the end of battery does it go out?

One of my Echo batteries was almost fully charged, so I put it on the charger (300 mah) to see if the light on the battery end went out when the light on the u.s.b. charger (300 mah) turned green....it did not go out.
The other Echo battery is still charging.

 

[Charlz]

Typically the led goes out before the charger light. About 20 mins. There have been some variances in the past but the common theme is the led on the battery always goes out when it's full. You may have a faulty charger that's showing the battery is charged before the battery agrees. Do you have the stealth or the led? I can't remember.

 

[Heavy119]

I have the L.E.D.....and I have not used the 420 mAh on the Echo batteries......just on the one eGo 808 battery that I have. I have an extra 420 mah charger due to a kit I bought that the batteries were no good, so I kept the charger and disposed of the batteries.(sorry if my earlier post was confusing)

I would have bought the stealth ones had I known about them b4 buying the L.E.D. ones. (I like the stealth ones)

Who sells the stealth ones?

 

[Charlz]

Cropduster 901, Mountain Vapor and Northwest Vapors all have the stealth version. The 300 mah charger you have will work but you might want to get one and mark it, just to see if it's the charger causing your problems. I have a feeling it is- that it's charging slow and signaling your battery is done even when it's not.

 

[Heavy119]

Cropduster 901, Mountain Vapor and Northwest Vapors all have the stealth version. The 300 mah charger you have will work but you might want to get one and mark it, just to see if it's the charger causing your problems. I have a feeling it is- that it's charging slow and signaling your battery is done even when it's not.

Thanks for replying...I'll mark one and see.

 

[Charlz]

These ce4s from Smoktek wiggle off the base easier than any others I have tried. Two days on one and it ready to be cleaned. It came off so easy it was a little scary but they showed no sign of coming apart in my pocket so I'm still pretty happy with these ones. Now if they would just widen the metal cone, these would be awesome on auto bats. First ce4s I didn't feel I needed to mod in some way out of the box.

occasional whistley draw or noisy as the vapor and air tries to squeeze through the narrow tube. Chronic vaping left a drip of condensation on the battery post that I felt in the draw so a quick blow out and 3 minute rest and it was good to go again. So far, no actual leakiness.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

charlz you're looking for the center post to be wider?

wonder if dremeling out the wick slots would have the same effect for you?

EDIT: I misread, its the dang cone, sorry

 

[txtumbleweed]

These ce4s from Smoktek wiggle off the base easier than any others I have tried. Two days on one and it ready to be cleaned. It came off so easy it was a little scary but they showed no sign of coming apart in my pocket so I'm still pretty happy with these ones. Now if they would just widen the metal cone, these would be awesome on auto bats. First ce4s I didn't feel I needed to mod in some way out of the box.

occasional whistley draw or noisy as the vapor and air tries to squeeze through the narrow tube. Chronic vaping left a drip of condensation on the battery post that I felt in the draw so a quick blow out and 3 minute rest and it was good to go again. So far, no actual leakiness.

I'm liking them too. I like the whistle tip plus they hold more juice than the ego clearos. I guess I'm going to have to learn to clean and dryburn these. Where can I find a good video to show how to take them apart. I guess GV probably has one for the stardust and these would be the same right?

 

[Charlz]

The vids will be for the 510. These are much easier. At least the one I took apart. (Normally I don't recommend taking them apart to folks who don't like modding because they were a pain to get back on compared to this one.)

1) attach to the battery and hold the battery and the silver ring base of the ce4 at the same time

2) Grab the clear part with your other hand and wiggle back and forth. It will slowly come loose from the base.

3)Dunk the whole metal part in PGA (preferred) then grab by the metal ring and swish the coil and wick around a little bit.

4)Slap it on a manual battery and pulse burn. 2-3 seconds at first but you can press longer as the alcohol evaporates. The lower the battery voltage the better at it stresses the wire less. Eventually you will see the wick get white again. The coil will go from sizzling to smoking and then go quiet and you will see the coil glow nice. Continue until no more smoke comes off the coil. (Let your nose be your guide but don't sniff the burning vapors. Only give a whiff when no more smoke is seen.)

5)Put it back in the shell and you are good to go. Make sure the base is inserted as far as it will go to keep it leak free. It's easier if you reattach the tip and press down on a hard surface, sometimes you need to wiggle a little and a light banging is ok.

The whole process takes less than 5 minutes and it's immediately ready to go again.

If you start wiggling and it seems too tight for you, you can do the whole process without taking it out of the shell, you'll just have to submerge it in the PGA and pour it out before burning and wait until the alcohol evaporates. It's not much longer. Removing it from the shell just lets you clean the shell and guts a little more thoroughly


edit: forgot to mention that you need to take off the silicone rubber piece and metal part at the top of the metal tube covering the wicks.

 

[Charlz]

charlz you're looking for the center post to be wider?

wonder if dremeling out the wick slots would have the same effect for you?

EDIT: I misread, its the dang cone, sorry

Wonder if you could dremel down the cone a little but I don't think it would matter. Looks like the tube is the same insde dimension and only the o.d. tapers. I did find the needle in a haystack. The one top hat I had from the original two I bought that was hiding in a bag somewhere. What a difference. I'm wondering if Litecig had non vision brands at first. I may have to start scouting around to see if there are knockoffs out there with a wider metal part.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

nice find dude

you know if you can figure out the OD/ID that you want I'm sure you can get a foot or so of stainless steel hypodermic and cut to spec