The Echo Thread

[Charlz]

They are all the same thing. Just different names by different suppliers. Turbo tanks is the more common name. The ego one just has a skirt for the ego threading (it's a 510 connection though, no ego threads) So the unit slide into it and has the rubber o ring for a seal that is actually above the first couple of fill lines.

The 808 version-iTurbo has the base as one unit and starts at the bottom of the metal band and can fit a little more juice.

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

So I put a broken echo carto back together just to see how well I could do it. Went fine, but where exactly in relation to the coil does the inner wrap go? Just above it, on it, or all the way to the bottom?

 

[Errol]

So I put a broken echo carto back together just to see how well I could do it. Went fine, but where exactly in relation to the coil does the inner wrap go? Just above it, on it, or all the way to the bottom?

All the way to the bottom. The ones I have punched out then dissembled had two wrappings that looked a little different from each other. The smaller of the two wrapped around the coils first then the batting over that.

Errol

 

[Charlz]

I haven't taken one off the shell. But it goes as far down as it can. I know with the straw insertion method, it gets wrapped at the base of the straw and then the filler goes around that, even with the bottom of the inner filler. So it will be what the wicks touch.........don't know if that's helpful or not.

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

Thanks guys that helped a lot.

Going to take apart a brand new one from the batch that's giving me trouble, make sure everything is in the right place, juice up the fillers and put it back together and see if it works...wish me luck, I gotta pull out my rubber gloves and headlamp for the full mad scientist effect.

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

Okay, just took apart a 2 day old carto that was giving me the harsh chemically exhale.

Came apart a lot easier than the other ones I took apart. 4 taps with the hammer and out it came.

The wicking material was a little brown near where it touched the coils but nothing bad.

The coil was quite a bit gunked on one side. That side was very close to the side of the center tube. So I dry burned and moved it until it was equally as distant as the other side. I had to dry burn to see all parts of the coil actually. Now the wick is a bit longer on one side than the other.

Then I dripped on the wicks and vaped through the center tube to make sure the taste was not altered and it wasn't so I wrapped the inner wicking material as tight as I could at the bottom of the center tube around the wicks of the coile. It flared out a little bit at the wicks but I did the best I could. Then I wrapped the outter wick material and slid the housing back on the base.

Then just taped the top of the carto with the hammer till it was sealed back up.

Vapes great, tons of vapor, just like its supposed to be. Hopefully my wrapping skill will prove good enough in the long run.

Also, even though I just topped it off by dripping till drops came out the bottom, and when I pulled out the stuffing there were lots of dry spots in it. I doused it with juice before I put it all back together...might be the way I do my intital fill from now on, because I had originally syringe filled that carto.

Anyway, that's my experience.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

This is amazing, good work dude !

I've failed to uncase all my 808 horizon coils (never owned or tried an echo...until
Tonight that is!)

All mt attempts at dry burning after de stuffing have also ruined the wick and left a permanent burnt chemical taste as well.

You've succeeded where I've failed x2!

Care to share your hammer technique for decasing?

And how did you go about dry burning ? 3 sec pulses, stop the first time you see red or keep going etc? Did the wick scorch?

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

The hammer technique is a few posts back in a little wall of text from me. I adapted it from how errol uncased his dual coils. But I take the stuffing out first then insert flat head screwdriver to the base and hammer it while holding in hand at different points on the sides of the base. Any thing flat and metal would work, and round hollow pipe might be best to evenly distribute the force.

Dryburning is new too me, but with it open you can monitor the wick very closely. I started with one second, saw the coil wasn't getting fully lit so I increased by one second each time till I got to about 5 seconds. Did the 5 second twice noticed the coil was clean and backed off. I think anything past a clean coil would scorch the wick. So I would think it varys with how gunked the coil is. I dry burned on a little 510 manual with adapter so the voltage of the smaller batter (unknown to me but its a joye 510) might have effected that.

 

[pipoy]

Thank you for you answers. Have you a technical explication ? I'm really suprised that it doesn't fire <2 ohms cartomizers and I can't understand why it will not work and if it is not possible to make a slight change to make it work.

 

[lulu836]

I unscrewed the driptip from an iTurbo and when I raised it up there is a very small opaque o-ring around the bottom part. What is that for and does that mean it's headed for the round file?

 

[Charlz]

I unscrewed the driptip from an iTurbo and when I raised it up there is a very small opaque o-ring around the bottom part. What is that for and does that mean it's headed for the round file?

There are 2 orings. One goes in the metal band under the lip for the threads. If it's dislodged, it very difficult to get it back underneath. The other goes on the tip, flush with the threading. It's easy to push that one back in place.

They both form an airtight seal. Tho outer one seems more important as I've used one with the inner seal off with no leaking, seal issues.

To get the inner one back on, you have to pop the metal band off. I've been unable to do it with the 808 version and there really is no reason to. The only other way is to pull off the shell and poke it back in with a long screwdriver. I know you probably won't try this, but the info is there for those that want to. Again, if it's the inner seal, I haven't has issues with the one that came off. Don't lose the one on the tip, though.

 

[lulu836]

It was the one on the drip tip so that was an easy fix. I put the clearo under my desktop magnifying light and can see the one inside the clearo under the metal band. Thank you for the info.

 

[Charlz]

I suppose a curved tool might be able to get the inside one back in place, but I couldn't get it. For those who got them and ripped off the tip rather than unscrewing it, it can dislodge the inner seal.

 

[Errol]

This is amazing, good work dude !
I've failed to uncase all my 808 horizon coils (never owned or tried an echo...until
Tonight that is!)
All mt attempts at dry burning after de stuffing have also ruined the wick and left a permanent burnt chemical taste as well.
You've succeeded where I've failed x2!
Care to share your hammer technique for decasing?
And how did you go about dry burning ? 3 sec pulses, stop the first time you see red or keep going etc? Did the wick scorch?

My experiment for knocking the guts out of the shell along with a link to a pictorial illustration of the straw method is post#2270 http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ego-type-models/189567-echo-thread-227.html#post5379860
If you use something similar to my small shaft punch you can use something like a syringe needle to hold the packing back from the shell wall enough to get the punch to the bottom without snagging the packing. You are then able to punch it all out and lay it on a flat surface to take things apart and reassemble.

On the dry burn, I do it in short burst until it finally glows a bright red. I let my nose and eyes determine when it is clean. I've destroyed a few coils by over cooking.

Errol

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

My experiment for knocking the guts out of the shell along with a link to a pictorial illustration of the straw method is post#2270 http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ego-type-models/189567-echo-thread-227.html#post5379860
If you use something similar to my small shaft punch you can use something like a syringe needle to hold the packing back from the shell wall enough to get the punch to the bottom without snagging the packing. You are then able to punch it all out and lay it on a flat surface to take things apart and reassemble.

On the dry burn, I do it in short burst until it finally glows a bright red. I let my nose and eyes determine when it is clean. I've destroyed a few coils by over cooking.

Errol

I need to get something like the small shaft for the dual coils, i did one with the screw driver, but it was a pita not snagging the stuffing. I was and am working with single coils and its easier for me to do use the screw driver after i take out the stuffing.

I should say thanks again to you Errol because it was your posts that made me try to take one apart this way, I did not think it was possible, but its surprisingly easy.

I should also mention that i am literally using a tiny hammer, the whole thing is about 4 inches long, so it does not require as much force as I make it sound, a regular hammer would pop it right out--no doubt.

 

[Charlz]

Ok....I'm on board with this now. You have to believe it can be done first. The second one popped out easier than the first. I noticed on one the one side of the wick was tucked up into the tube and the other barely stuck out. FAIL.

So before I go any further, what about the rubber sealant gluing the air tube in place? Did you just pick it off. How am I going to replace it later?

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

I haven't reassembled one that I have taken the center tube off of yet. Was going to look for some similar glue or heat resistant calk or something.

Although I'm tempted to try a dab of super glue but that could be really bad if it ends up burning.

But it does scrape out easy and you can just pull on the tube and it will lift out.

I have been manipulating the coil with tweezers on the wick. And dry burning with it on too. Also, you can TO A DEGREE bend the tube to the side to get a better look. Or use tweezers to pry open the slot in the tube a little to get in better.

 

[Charlz]

I know gotvapes has ecoglue. One would hope that nothing hazardous is going inside these carts that can leach into the juice. The dual coil has more of a cup rather than a flat base and is just filled with this stuff. The single coil just has enough to hold it in place.

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

Yes, the dual had tons of it. It was far up on the inner sides of the tube on mine, that's when I thought the glue was the problem, but on my single coils I'm finding its all about the coil and wick alignment. I have taken 3 apart and they are all off in some degree. I dry burn on a manual so I can look down the tube and adjust it so each end of the coil is equal distance from the sides...its tricky and not very precise but I'm getting better at it. I haven't seen a perfectly aligned one take apart yet so I'm just guessing, but I have done that twice and reassembled with success.

Ill have to pick up that glue maybe. I have concern about my wrapping skills of the inner wrap as I don't get it perfectly flat around the wicks-they make it flair out a bit, but so far that has been okay.

I'm happy your taking them apart now too, I was surprised more people didn't follow errols lead. But it is kind of like the four-minute mile once one person did it 3 others did it shortly after.

 

[Charlz]

My dual is toast so I may try to save the wire. The wick was carmelized solid and I'm definitely not up to figuring out a dual coil. That one was a good one. Lasted all the way until I started trying these dark pipe blends. So you hammer it back on or just tap the base on a table until it's on? I've adjusted the wick back in place so all that's left it wrapping and putting everything back together.

Do you moisten the filler first before trying to wrap it? Seems like you'd get a tighter wrap.