The FastTech Thread for All FastTech Posts (Part 2)
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But you have to own the product right? I mean bought from them?
Else someone could just sit and do reviews all day long... (without having a clue about the quality of the product)
FT just got a new style\type of kayfun in stock..and the lotus clone too
$12.87 Kayfun Lite Styled Rebuildable Atomizer (4.5mL) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$12.87 Kayfun Lite Styled Rebuildable Atomizer (4.5mL) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Well I could not stand NOT having an order from Somewhere to track, so I placed an order with FT this morning, a whopping $20.45 worth. Nothing really special, but it will give me something to track for the next few weeks, shipped via USPS e-Packet. 
$1.01 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (50-Pack) 50-pack
$0.95 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (50-Pack) 50-pack
$2.80 Evod Bottom Coil Clearomizer (1.5mL) - 2.4ohm
$5.66 2-Post Display Stand Holder w/ Drip Tip Adapter
$5.80 2-Post Display Stand Holder w/ Drip Tip Adapter
$1.34 eGo Beauty Rings for 2.0mL ViVi Nova Atomizer (2-Pack) - black + silver
$0.72 Plastic Round Mouth Drip Tip for 510 / ViVi Nova / DCT - white
vape On
Burnie
$1.01 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (50-Pack) 50-pack
$0.95 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (50-Pack) 50-pack
$2.80 Evod Bottom Coil Clearomizer (1.5mL) - 2.4ohm
$5.66 2-Post Display Stand Holder w/ Drip Tip Adapter
$5.80 2-Post Display Stand Holder w/ Drip Tip Adapter
$1.34 eGo Beauty Rings for 2.0mL ViVi Nova Atomizer (2-Pack) - black + silver
$0.72 Plastic Round Mouth Drip Tip for 510 / ViVi Nova / DCT - white
vape On
Burnie
Lol, clone of a clone
And as i've mentioned earlier, be aware of that the post is made of chromed brass.
Lol, clone of a clone
And as i've mentioned earlier, be aware of that the post is made of chromed brass.
not sure which one you are referring to ? but i have the rocket [chromed post] and no problems
Can someone give me a general idea how long it takes to get something from Fasttech (being shipped to Alabama) and have you always gotten your orders ok?
Lol, clone of a clone
And as i've mentioned earlier, be aware of that the post is made of chromed brass.
Said it before and will keep repeating myself as long as people keep this up:
99.xx% of Top devices sold are Chromed Brass!
The Less than 1% are specialty (custom) pieces or true 1:1 clones of those.
Chromed Brass is only a problem is the Manufacturer does not Chrome plate properly. Chrome plated Brass has been around for Decades.
Take a look under your sink and at your faucets. When is the last time you rubbed the chrome off - even with household cleansers?
Yes, and I've ordered one just to have the extra base, parts and drip tip.
I have been mixing the PMMA spare parts on my 3 Kayfuns for the last couple of weeks and really like them. So much so that I also have a second set coming as a backup. I've put the tank on the 3.1, the inner parts on the Russian, and the top cap on the KFL (which let me put the inner parts of the Russian in the KFL, and thus not only correct the draw weakness, but also allow me to use the PMMA top cap instead of the poorly designed original KFL one.) The 3.1 and the Russian didn't really need changes, but they're happy and so am I.
Back to the urban-mythology-chromed-brass scare: for the umpteenth time, there is no evidence that any dangerous element will leak out of the chromed brass used in our equipment. NONE. NO evidence. NO basis for the scare-mongering.
BTW, I live in the wild Middle East. The only lead likely to kill me is the bullet kind, and it doesn't even need to be chromed - ...
Assume 6 weeks, expect 4 weeks and hope for 2 weeks and you will never run out of anything or be disappointed.
Well the problem is that our juice sits on these posts. And they're made of cheap brass. Many of the chromed bases from FT has been so "soft" that you could use your nail to scratch it off. Where is that chrome going to get? In your juice ofcourse. And the brass will most likley contain lead. I doubt they use food grade brass (number 300 something and that's what our pipes are made of, even those are getting banned and switched out. Atleast in sweden. Only old houses still uses them.)
I'm not gonna bash at anyone who choose to use these. I just wanted to raise a fair warning for those who might care. I'm one of those that's rather on the safe side. I quit smoking because it's so bad for me. I don't want to risk vaping chrome nor lead from the brass.
It's okay to use brass on the outside as mech mods are. Because you're not licking on it are you? Your juice aint sitting on it.
The heat + juice on that, the chrome will were of. Perhaps not immedietly but soon enough.
Brass - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Lead poisoning - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
watch these guys, they make a great point of it all. It wasn't until these guys + another reviewer noticed how poorly made these were fasttech didn't list "brass made post / chrome" it was stated as SS. But now they've started to state if its brass or not. Just watch many of the comments in their forums.
All in all, i don't mind anyone using it. It's just that i personally will not.
Again just a fair warning.
Well I could not stand NOT having an order from Somewhere to track, so I placed an order with FT this morning, a whopping $20.45 worth. Nothing really special, but it will give me something to track for the next few weeks, shipped via USPS e-Packet.
$1.01 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (50-Pack) 50-pack
$0.95 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (50-Pack) 50-pack
$2.80 Evod Bottom Coil Clearomizer (1.5mL) - 2.4ohm
$5.66 2-Post Display Stand Holder w/ Drip Tip Adapter
$5.80 2-Post Display Stand Holder w/ Drip Tip Adapter
$1.34 eGo Beauty Rings for 2.0mL ViVi Nova Atomizer (2-Pack) - black + silver
$0.72 Plastic Round Mouth Drip Tip for 510 / ViVi Nova / DCT - white
Vape On
Burnie
What did you buy the o-rings for? The smaller ones look like they might fit drip-tips, I think. But, what about the larger ones?
The day I take comments in the FT forums seriously is the day I turn the life support machine off.
I have a lot of different size carto tanks, but have no idea to the o-ring sizes as I got them off the classes in different lot purchases. I just ordered a couple of sizes that were in stock/ships next day to see if they fit anything (everything on that order is in stock/ships next day). At $1 a pack not a big loss for 2 packs, even if they don't fit anything, but it will give me an idea of what sizes to order in the future, or I may get lucky and they fit something. I really just need to go buy a caliper to measure what I need, which I will one of these days.
Vape On
Burnie
Wish I could get $2 an hour to post here on ECF. I would do a whole lot less lurking and be so prolific you couldn't stand it. Some of you avid posters would make a respectable living.
Watched the review - Watched the close up coverage
Listened and Noted HE ADMITTED TO SCRATCHING with a SCREWDRIVER - Not Fingernails!!!!!
To a Layman anything said well can become believable. Fact is personal opinion abounded in the review. The reviewer was screaming WOLF!
No, you probably do not want to Vape on a Brass Atomizer. (I do have one - Trishula)
No, you don't want a Device with Flaking Chrome
No Chrome is NOT a soft Metal - it is a Bonded finish a few microns thick - If Chrome was soft it could not FLAKE.
Issues arise from Poor Metal Preparation before Plating.
Does not matter if it is:
Chrome Plating
Cadmium Plating
Gold Plating
Silver plating
Going over:
Brass
Aluminum
Stainless
Copper
If the Prep work is Crap the end result will be crap. If the prep work is right the final piece will be well bonded and up to standards.
Now, take a look at the number of scratch attempts on that Base that did not penetrate the chrome finish and tell me he wasn't doing his very best to prove HIS point.
I have been Vaping for over 18 months - using all forms of toppers and have yet to have a single Chromed part Flake and expose underlying brass. YMMV
The #1 source for lead poisoning remains - Lead Paint - when pealed pulverized and ingested.
Listened and Noted HE ADMITTED TO SCRATCHING with a SCREWDRIVER - Not Fingernails!!!!!
To a Layman anything said well can become believable. Fact is personal opinion abounded in the review. The reviewer was screaming WOLF!
No, you probably do not want to Vape on a Brass Atomizer. (I do have one - Trishula)
No, you don't want a Device with Flaking Chrome
No Chrome is NOT a soft Metal - it is a Bonded finish a few microns thick - If Chrome was soft it could not FLAKE.
Issues arise from Poor Metal Preparation before Plating.
Does not matter if it is:
Chrome Plating
Cadmium Plating
Gold Plating
Silver plating
Going over:
Brass
Aluminum
Stainless
Copper
If the Prep work is Crap the end result will be crap. If the prep work is right the final piece will be well bonded and up to standards.
Now, take a look at the number of scratch attempts on that Base that did not penetrate the chrome finish and tell me he wasn't doing his very best to prove HIS point.
I have been Vaping for over 18 months - using all forms of toppers and have yet to have a single Chromed part Flake and expose underlying brass. YMMV
The #1 source for lead poisoning remains - Lead Paint - when pealed pulverized and ingested.
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Well, what about this stuff?
Kanthal is the trademark for a family of iron-chromium-aluminium (FeCrAl) alloys used in a wide range of resistance and high-temperature applications. Kanthal FeCrAl alloys consist of mainly iron, chromium (20–30%) and aluminium (4–7.5 %). Ordinary Kanthal FeCrAl alloy has a melting point of 1,200 °C (2,190 °F).
Nichrome wire is 80% nickel and 20% chromium, by mass, but there are many others to accommodate various applications. It is silvery-grey in colour, is corrosion-resistant, and has a high melting point of about 1,400 °C
While I'm sure we don't approach the melting temps for the heating wire, we sure aspirate it under high temperature. Is that safe? Only scientific research will give us the answer.
My $.02
Kanthal is the trademark for a family of iron-chromium-aluminium (FeCrAl) alloys used in a wide range of resistance and high-temperature applications. Kanthal FeCrAl alloys consist of mainly iron, chromium (20–30%) and aluminium (4–7.5 %). Ordinary Kanthal FeCrAl alloy has a melting point of 1,200 °C (2,190 °F).
Nichrome wire is 80% nickel and 20% chromium, by mass, but there are many others to accommodate various applications. It is silvery-grey in colour, is corrosion-resistant, and has a high melting point of about 1,400 °C
While I'm sure we don't approach the melting temps for the heating wire, we sure aspirate it under high temperature. Is that safe? Only scientific research will give us the answer.
My $.02
ahm ok,,well that is one of those kind of "duh" things ,,if ya can't tell the difference between chrome and SS then best not get it
i had a kayfun that i used kanthal in,,took it apart and cleaned it but left the wick in,built it the next day and it had the funniest copper-ish taste !!
tore it apart to look at the coil,the coil has rusted and i didn't notice that when i put it back together
i gotta wonder just how many people are aware that kanthal will and does rust ?!?!??!
I got my calipers from FT and they work well, about 11.00. https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002323/1167600-digital-150mm-6-inch-caliper
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