- Status
In my experience with evods and t3's these BCC usually leak that way for 2 reasons.
1. The wicks in the coil are not filling the holes in the head alowing the leak. Try changing the head, if that works you may be able to fix the old head by messing with the wicks.
2. The tank is broken or has a hole in it. This breaks the vacuum seal allowing the juice to flow out. These can sometimes be hard to find and fix.
Well......where are the Ithaka pics??? lol. It's killing me not to order one, as I wait on my last order. haha
Thanks for your help! I don't have any heads to try that fix, so I guess I'll just return it. So sad, I got it to match a battery I bought also. Is there a better on available from FT that you know of?
edited to add: I just tried covering one side closed and blowing thru just the tank, and i can feel air coming out where the "metal" meets the plastic. Must be faulty.
Last edited:
Oh, that's purty ^_^
I should be getting my Red K100 and IGO L soon, too...can't wait
I actually got my Iglo-l today. What a deal!! Also got my KTS. It's very nice looking, but also very light weight.
New mech released, the S1000. Looks much like the V3 Sentinel Clone, but there is some differences. The cool part is it's stainless steal and brass, so should be a lot more durable than the two-tone V3 with aluminum and brass. The top cap is brass, so the 510 threading should be as durable as the all brass V3. Looks like a good device for someone who prefers the look of the two tone Sentinel clone but is worried about the 510 threading issues reported with it.
I actually prefer the look of the all brass V3, so will probably pass on this one. It does give me hope though that a stainless steel version of the Private M2 will be released.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10005338/1428105-s1000-mech-mod-telescoping-e-cigarette-battery
Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
I actually prefer the look of the all brass V3, so will probably pass on this one. It does give me hope though that a stainless steel version of the Private M2 will be released.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10005338/1428105-s1000-mech-mod-telescoping-e-cigarette-battery
Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
Ooo shiny lol. I like the look my brass V3 is developing with handling, but seeing that picture has me wanting to give it a good polishing lol.
Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
About the Ithaka...I have no idea about the damn thing. I have a wish list on my website, and my birthday was coming up and it got ordered for me, lol. I am just starting to get into building my own coils, and I just did a wanted in the classifieds for a wire welder. So it will be awhile before I even begin to rebuild the ody and the ithaka, that being said:
Some pics of the Ody and the Ithaka.
Some pics of the Ody and the Ithaka.
That Ithaka is swwwwweeeeet! I don't care what anyone says....I NEED a tank for when it isn't practical to drip, right? ; )
I gave mine a scrub with a green scrubber sponge in warm water and soap, then hit it up in the sonic cleaner, then gave it a rub down with a salt/lemon juice paste, then back in the cleaner.
Eventually I might sit down and take a couple hours to polish it to a mirror finish (or as close as I can get) then spray it down with some shellac or whatever.
You piqued my curiosity, so I got the now-dry new T4 and am trying the Liqua Berry mix at 3.4 v right now as I type.
BTW, I'm not trying to sound like a smartalec, but the temperature and kind of tank really does matter in my experience - especially the temperature.
* The T4 is really cool, very streamlined, no machine-taste (it has been rinsed out in hot water, though), very comfortable to fill, and I love BCCs...
* I really like the Liqua Berry Mix at 3.2v to 3.4 v. I can easily see it as an ADV. Ok, it doesn't blow me out of the water like the Liqua Apple did, but at really low temperatures, it tastes like my idea of fresh forest fruit - ripe red currents, gooseberries, something very nice, natural and fruity. At 3.6v it loses its clarity and tastes over-cooked. I didn't even try it at higher voltages. I also haven't tried it in a top-coil clearo.
My conclusion just from my experience right now: Berry Mix, like the Citrus Mix and the Apple, need low temperatures. At or under 3.4v they are great, over 3.6 or 3.7 and they are over-cooked and messy-tasting. Give them at chance at low temperatures!
Oh, and the T4 is a cool bcc...
I don't mean to whine, but expressing "temperature" in volts is pretty much useless without ohms. When using a single figure only watts has any meaning
Vape mail today!
Vape mail for me today also. I received the v3 and a couple of sanyo 18500 batteries for it. The order was marked as shipped on the second and received today. Not bad at all.
I really liking the v3. If anyone is on the fence on this one, I'd say you won't be disappointed. It's a solid chunk of brass with good machining.
Wow, the ithaka looks way better than i thought. Just another question for ithaka users, does it need to be always up right like genesis atomizers or can i have it on my mod throw it on my backpack and don't worry about its position? thx in advance
I don't mean to whine, but expressing "temperature" in volts is pretty much useless without ohms. When using a single figure only watts has any meaning
I agree with you, but didn't want to quote ohms, which is why I just said what type of tank I was using (the T4 or the iClear30 or the proTank, etc). Maybe mistakenly I thought that the same material would have the same ohms reading, and so the volt reading would be enough to back up what I was saying.
Being a non-watts kind of old lady, I only mess around with voltage...Sorry to the more physics-minded people here.
Some things you can try unless you send it back of course... Clear nail polish over the "hole". Most finished look. duct tape over the hole... looks nasty but duct tape fixes everything. Heck my daughter always makes me buy her Zebra print and purple duct tape. Super glue.
I wouldn't try them if you are sending it back.
To find out where the hole is submerge in a glass of water and blow lightly.. Sometimes easier said than done.
Last edited:
I haven't had a leaking problem yet, but I always make sure to close the juice control before I lay it down or leave it sitting overnight. It does start gurgling on occasion, but I think I have the bottom wick opening set wrong and I didn't want to take it back apart until I get my nickel wire. It hits really weird for me, too cool but yet mammoth hit... enough to trigger a major coughing fit. It's like hitting a dead battery kinda hit but with massive flavor and little vapor... and that's set at 15w which is the max I can pump out of the SVD. My Provari is back in the shop for repair AGAIN, I'm hoping it might be able to give a little more top end power, but sort of doubtful. I may have to end up running it in single coil configuration when it's all said and done, I dunno. The learning curve is definitely going to be a challenge though.
I have it all screwed up though so don't let that be any indicator of performance expectations.
Here are some hi-rez pictures of mine:
http://s453.photobucket.com/user/funkyzero/slideshow/FastTech Ithaka Clone
Thank you very much for the quick response
i'll order one now My birthday is on the 23rd, let's hope the mail gods deliver on time
I don't mean to whine, but expressing "temperature" in volts is pretty much useless without ohms. When using a single figure only watts has any meaning
With me, assume I use a stock head at 2.4ohm resistance on BCCs (I am presuming Maggie does the same)
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
