I thought face said the gun metal ones were anodized.
Yes the gun metals ones are anodized, but the tubes that the person was asking about where their original un-anodized tubes that use to be standard with the iHybrids
I thought face said the gun metal ones were anodized.
Was it you that asked this question?
Anyway, check with people who have expierience,but I think you should dent the gap between the coil and the top post with your fingernail to prevent hotspots there.
Also bend the wick to the post so that the gap is as small as possible. (don't let it touch tho!)
someone on fb told me they had another oring with the ihy that is thicker and doesn't allow the top cap to move so much. are these no longer sent with the ihys?
VapeMail!
My "gun metal" standard is in!
See You guys in a few, when I get this up and running, or when I absolutly can't![]()
Alright the main problem I've had with some coils ever since I started with RBA's, and still haven't really figured out a trick to fix, is getting hotspots on the kanthal that leads from the top coil to the positive post. How do I fix that? Any simple fixes?
I'm having some serious bad luck with popping my top coil tonight. I had it workin for bout an hour and now for the life of me, I can't get more than the top wrap to glow. Glow pop glow pop, all top wrap, over and over.
The headache is creeping in. I give up for tonight. A man can only take so many failures.
I do dent the gap. That's what has worked for me the first few weeks trying out rba's. Tonight it's not working. It worked for a couple hours then started hot spotting on me. Now I can't get it back. Actually denting the gap and pushing the wick really close to the positive post are the 2 things I kinda figured out myself to work recently, just not tonight. Only thing I haven't done is twist the coil, but I don't have locking pliers so I can't get it to twist well. I'll have to pick some up.
I'm using 32 kanthal.. clockwise around the neg, counter around the pos. Tight wraps but not too tight. Denting the gap, pushing the wick towards pos.. all that.. Maybe it's the tank hole that the wick is in that's causing the shorts/hot spots, because it's pushing up against the side of the hole, but if I push the wick towards the pos post I don't see how I can avoid that.
I've got 2 coils at least 2 weeks old in my chobra and aga-t, so I know I can make em... Not sure why I'm crapping out tonight.
*Edit - Well I medicated myself a little bit to get rid of that headache and decided to give it another go before I head to bed. Got a 1.9ohm going pretty good. What I did different was put a dent in the wick there right before it enters the tank hole, allowing me to push the top of the wick more towards the pos without the wick mashing against the inner tank hole too bad. Wallah! Fireworks!
Maybe my best wick and coil to date.
I am posting this link directly to the page for IBTanked for the proper sized tubing if anyone decides to go that route
https://www.ibtanked.com/custom-cut-tubes/22mm-to-32mm-od/22mm-x-1-5mm-detail
So today I noticed my juice turning darker. Multimeter said 1.3, which I thought was a way to test for shorts and other problems. Decided to just take off the coil and rewrap. Got it wrapped, everything is even. No bright shinning spots anywhere, and here's where things get good. POP! You know, sometimes when juice sputters. Nope, the f'ing tank popped. I am beyond ....... I'm going to Taco Bell, getting some Doritos locos tacos and going to sleep. 2 in one week(one my fault, one idk). I guess RBA's aren't my thing
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Now my Envy looks like a freaking penis... Before anyone asks, I'm not posting this for someone to send me a tank to help out :/ I just suck with these, completely I guess. I've never heard of ANYONE having this problem when dry burning
I wonder why everyone (mod makers) are using FQ anyway... It is so fragile - Isn't Pyrex a better choice? Is it a cost issue?please get this on the spreadsheet, I'm going to need it one day lol.
Paulllllll! How you been? Got to get to work. But its good to see that hsppy little avatar.congrats synca.
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I wonder why everyone (mod makers) are using FQ anyway... It is do fragile - Isn't Pyrex a better choice? Is it a cost issue?
So today I noticed my juice turning darker. Multimeter said 1.3, which I thought was a way to test for shorts and other problems. Decided to just take off the coil and rewrap. Got it wrapped, everything is even. No bright shinning spots anywhere, and here's where things get good. POP! You know, sometimes when juice sputters. Nope, the f'ing tank popped. I am beyond ....... I'm going to Taco Bell, getting some Doritos locos tacos and going to sleep. 2 in one week(one my fault, one idk). I guess RBA's aren't my thing
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Now my Envy looks like a freaking penis... Before anyone asks, I'm not posting this for someone to send me a tank to help out :/ I just suck with these, completely I guess. I've never heard of ANYONE having this problem when dry burning
Yeah - am thinking about physical strength. I really don't think thermal properties should factor in, as if your tank is getting hot enough to shatter or crack either of the materials, the vaper is doing something VERY wrong. This is coming from a guy that likes to vape very harsh cinnamon juices - they were always fine in my Phiniac tanks back in my carto days (STILL have those tanks).I may be incorrect, but I believe FQ is more chemical resistant and less prone to breaking due to thermal shock. I think they are both just as susceptible to breaking due to direct physical force at the same wall thickness, but I don't really know for sure. Kathy (bedazzle) would be the one who would know the reason to use one over the other.
Sent from my phone.