I think they are all fat guys with beards
Try P.Busadio or however it is spelled. I watched it once because I really had no clue at all. Sat down and slapped a coil on.
The Innokin iTaste VV V3 owners group
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I think they are all fat guys with beards
Try P.Busadio or however it is spelled. I watched it once because I really had no clue at all. Sat down and slapped a coil on.
The light should go out once completely charged. If you are leaving it on overnight and the light isn't out, something is either wrong with your charger or device. Are you making sure the connecting post on the itaste is clean and dry?
I have two of the VV3s from before the added rivets, and the base of one is loose enough that I have to be very careful when I remove the charging cable. I know that somewhere in this thread I saw where someone had repaired theirs using epoxy, but I'm having no luck finding it with Search.
My question is whether that was with epoxy putty or a liquid mix epoxy. I was shopping for the putty online but most of the ones I found said that they were fast drying. Unfortunately I'm not fast working. Does anyone have any specific recommendations? It still works now, but I figure it is only a matter of time before I forget to be careful, and I'd rather not have to replace it yet.
My question is whether that was with epoxy putty or a liquid mix epoxy. I was shopping for the putty online but most of the ones I found said that they were fast drying. Unfortunately I'm not fast working. Does anyone have any specific recommendations? It still works now, but I figure it is only a matter of time before I forget to be careful, and I'd rather not have to replace it yet.
That was me
I'd tried a couple regular and fast-setting epoxies on mine, at the top. No luck. Picked up a package of epoxy putty, mixed it and rolled it out into a strand or "rope" and worked it in between the top cap and base. Squeezed it together and clamped it. I happened to have some suitable size bar clamps, but rubber bands would probably work, as it doesn't take a lot of pressure, just need some. Scraped / wiped off the excess before it set, left it overnight.
You want to be very sparing with the putty, especially down at the bottom. Don't want to get any in the connections, buttons, or on the interior circuit boards.
I used J-B Weld "Steel Stick" (TM), with a set time of 5 minutes (from mixing).
I'd tried a couple regular and fast-setting epoxies on mine, at the top. No luck. Picked up a package of epoxy putty, mixed it and rolled it out into a strand or "rope" and worked it in between the top cap and base. Squeezed it together and clamped it. I happened to have some suitable size bar clamps, but rubber bands would probably work, as it doesn't take a lot of pressure, just need some. Scraped / wiped off the excess before it set, left it overnight.
You want to be very sparing with the putty, especially down at the bottom. Don't want to get any in the connections, buttons, or on the interior circuit boards.
I used J-B Weld "Steel Stick" (TM), with a set time of 5 minutes (from mixing).
I may try cleaning it first and see if using different USB cable helps. Thanks all.
I think they are all fat guys with beards
Try P.Busadio or however it is spelled. I watched it once because I really had no clue at all. Sat down and slapped a coil on.
P. Busardo (Phil Busardo)
P Busardo is the man. Has awesome reviews. Rip Trippers has some awesome coil building vids.
Both are some of the best vids out there IMO.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Both are some of the best vids out there IMO.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
My SVD just arrived.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
I'll preface this with saying that I don't use the itaste vv3, but my fiancee uses two and I rebuild the heads for her in her vivi nova tanks. Starting yesterday, she said that the battery itself in the center is getting really hot - almost too hot to touch, and I cant' figure out what the problem is. Has anyone else experienced anything like this?
I always test the heck out of the coils I build for her, and even if there was a short, the circuitry in the itaste wouldn't let it fire - right? She also says that when this happens, there is a noticeable decrease in flavor and vapor production. The battery charge is around 3.8, and she vapes it at that same level with the 1.8 microcoil and cotton build I have in the vivi novas. I've contacted Vapingtown on ebay to see about an exchange, but she's already had it for 3 weeks.
I'd be most grateful if anyone could chime in with some advice. Thanks in advance
I always test the heck out of the coils I build for her, and even if there was a short, the circuitry in the itaste wouldn't let it fire - right? She also says that when this happens, there is a noticeable decrease in flavor and vapor production. The battery charge is around 3.8, and she vapes it at that same level with the 1.8 microcoil and cotton build I have in the vivi novas. I've contacted Vapingtown on ebay to see about an exchange, but she's already had it for 3 weeks.
I'd be most grateful if anyone could chime in with some advice. Thanks in advance
Hot in the center? As in the middle of the tube, not near the clearo?
Doesn't sound good, if that's the case. Sounds like something internal is going to case ground when it shouldn't.
Battery charge around 3.8 - is that the actual battery voltage or the output setting? Should be around 4.1, 4.2 after a full charge, but that shouldn't be related to any odd hot spot...
Doesn't sound good, if that's the case. Sounds like something internal is going to case ground when it shouldn't.
Battery charge around 3.8 - is that the actual battery voltage or the output setting? Should be around 4.1, 4.2 after a full charge, but that shouldn't be related to any odd hot spot...
I'll preface this with saying that I don't use the itaste vv3, but my fiancee uses two and I rebuild the heads for her in her vivi nova tanks. Starting yesterday, she said that the battery itself in the center is getting really hot - almost too hot to touch, and I cant' figure out what the problem is. Has anyone else experienced anything like this?
I always test the heck out of the coils I build for her, and even if there was a short, the circuitry in the itaste wouldn't let it fire - right? She also says that when this happens, there is a noticeable decrease in flavor and vapor production. The battery charge is around 3.8, and she vapes it at that same level with the 1.8 microcoil and cotton build I have in the vivi novas. I've contacted Vapingtown on ebay to see about an exchange, but she's already had it for 3 weeks.
I'd be most grateful if anyone could chime in with some advice. Thanks in advance
If the battery is getting too hot to hold it sounds like a serious problem. David asked if she is vaping at 3.8 volts or if after a full charge it's reading 3.8 volts. 3.8 volts is not a full charge at all and with the battery getting too hot to hold I would refrain from using it and charging it. I can see the top where the clearo goes on getting a bit warm, but never hot. Contact Vapingtown and report your issue to them. In the mean time don't use the battery or charge it. Also curious to know if the green light goes out when on the charger.
Wow. All I can say is I flipping wasted a bit of money on attys for Kangers and even more to try the Aspire... Just rebuilt my first Kanger. 28 gauge micro coil (came out to 2.0 ohms). Used organic cotton. Pumped it up to 11 watts on the vv v3 and Damn! CLOUDS of vapor!
Looks like my Aspires are getting retired until I feel comfortable with wrapping 2 of the exact same micro coils. Add to that the Aspires' filler sleeve and it leads to a big PITA.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Looks like my Aspires are getting retired until I feel comfortable with wrapping 2 of the exact same micro coils. Add to that the Aspires' filler sleeve and it leads to a big PITA.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Heheh....you got the bug, my friend! I still haven't bought any Kanthal so I can't wrap yet, but soon...just the cotton alone has been a game-changer for me. I don't ever vape any lower than 9W now. Yummy!!
Yeah... for real... I just added the PT2 Mini to my SVD (which looks pretty damn funny, I do have to say). I cranked that up to 15 watts and WOW! 
That vapor was ridiculous and no burnt taste . I used to have to keep it under 8 watts or I'd have a nasty taste.
Now I just need to find a larger (2.5 ml+ ideally), all glass, Kanger EVOD/Protank coil compatible(or T3S compatible as I guess T3S is compatible with EVOD/Protank, but not vice versa) clearo to replace my girlfriend's use of the Aspire ET-S... And it must look as nice on an Ego style device. That is one thing the Pyrex ET-S has going for it. In black and stainless, it looks like it was built for the Ego. I was thinking about the pyrex Aro, but I can't tell if it's 2.0 ml or 2.5 or 3.0... The ET-S is just under 3ml, so I'd be fine with 2.5+. The PT2 Mini, is just too small for her vaping habits (and the fact that she will not pay attention to the level of juice).
Open to suggestions (As in, please, please give me any suggestions you all may have!)
That vapor was ridiculous and no burnt taste . I used to have to keep it under 8 watts or I'd have a nasty taste. Now I just need to find a larger (2.5 ml+ ideally), all glass, Kanger EVOD/Protank coil compatible(or T3S compatible as I guess T3S is compatible with EVOD/Protank, but not vice versa) clearo to replace my girlfriend's use of the Aspire ET-S... And it must look as nice on an Ego style device. That is one thing the Pyrex ET-S has going for it. In black and stainless, it looks like it was built for the Ego. I was thinking about the pyrex Aro, but I can't tell if it's 2.0 ml or 2.5 or 3.0... The ET-S is just under 3ml, so I'd be fine with 2.5+. The PT2 Mini, is just too small for her vaping habits (and the fact that she will not pay attention to the level of juice).
Open to suggestions
(As in, please, please give me any suggestions you all may have!)
Yeah... for real... I just added the PT2 Mini to my SVD (which looks pretty damn funny, I do have to say). I cranked that up to 15 watts and WOW!
Now I just need to find a larger (2.5 ml+ ideally), all glass, Kanger EVOD/Protank coil compatible(or T3S compatible as I guess T3S is compatible with EVOD/Protank, but not vice versa) clearo to replace my girlfriend's use of the Aspire ET-S... And it must look as nice on an Ego style device. That is one thing the Pyrex ET-S has going for it. In black and stainless, it looks like it was built for the Ego. I was thinking about the pyrex Aro, but I can't tell if it's 2.0 ml or 2.5 or 3.0... The ET-S is just under 3ml, so I'd be fine with 2.5+. The PT2 Mini, is just too small for her vaping habits (and the fact that she will not pay attention to the level of juice).
Open to suggestions
I think the best bang for the buck is my PT2 (rewicked). I put a different drip tip on it and it's got a tighter draw. My Aro I'm now going through in 1/2 a day. Not sure what the holding capacity is (websites say 2-3.5ml) but it goes pretty quick.
I've been vaping my PT2 all evening from 6PM to now and the juice is just at the metal bracket. I might need to invest in an XL cartotank if I don't want to be refilling 2-3 times a day.
Yeah, she's looking for Ego threading, not 510 threading... I know it comes with a beauty ring, but she doesn't like that... she's very specific. PT2 mini is only like 1.5. She just burns through the wintergreen flavor from Provape (reminds her of the Wint o green lifesavers). Mt Baker Vapor has a wintergreen that I accidentally ordered too high a nic count on and while it tastes the same, has too much of a th for enjoyment since we're used to the 6-12 mg of nic, not 18 mg anymore.
Yeah... for real... I just added the PT2 Mini to my SVD (which looks pretty damn funny, I do have to say). I cranked that up to 15 watts and WOW!
Now I just need to find a larger (2.5 ml+ ideally), all glass, Kanger EVOD/Protank coil compatible(or T3S compatible as I guess T3S is compatible with EVOD/Protank, but not vice versa) clearo to replace my girlfriend's use of the Aspire ET-S... And it must look as nice on an Ego style device. That is one thing the Pyrex ET-S has going for it. In black and stainless, it looks like it was built for the Ego. I was thinking about the pyrex Aro, but I can't tell if it's 2.0 ml or 2.5 or 3.0... The ET-S is just under 3ml, so I'd be fine with 2.5+. The PT2 Mini, is just too small for her vaping habits (and the fact that she will not pay attention to the level of juice).
Open to suggestions
I have the original ARO pyrex, and it holds 3.5ml. (the v2s are 2.4ml I think) I only use it for maybe an hour, hour and a half, each morning, with my morning mix in it (which has both cinnamon and clove), and it's lasted 3 mornings now; tonight I need to refill for in the morning. I'm seeing 2.0 resistance, and it vapes really nicely; don't hear much of that snap crackle pop, not sure if that's just because of the thicker tank muffling it, or what.
Andria
I actually just ordered 2 Aro Pyrex v1 since it holds more than the v2. Will rebuild the 2 coils that come with it and order a 5 pack in a month. I've spent far too much money in the past 6 weeks on new toys and have so many for retirement.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk. Excuse typos and stupid autocorrect errors.
Yeah it was very strange. It was the middle, not near the clearo so some screwy grounding short was my best guess too. It would charge fully, but the light would never go out as well- it was charged at 4.2, but the problem was manifesting when she used it at the 3.8 setting. I thought it was a short in a build I did for her, but it was still firing, so that couldn't be it.
I contacted Vapingtown, and even though we were at the 3 week mark, they still offered to replace it for free. We paid return shipping to send the faulty one back, but I was still pretty pleased with this customer service. At least she has the chameleon one going strong from 101vape, since she wants nothing to do with my mechs or sigelei zmax
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