The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

[TheKiwi]

Lol just popping in to say.... That oring on the chimney is the devil. If you *think* you've done everything possibly right, and you still get leaks when laid on its side, it's likely that guy.

I hope this isn't gonna be an unpopular opinion, but I've bought 12 lemos, 3 for myself and 9 as gifts for others. 7 of them never leaks no matter what. The other 5 will bleed juice when laid on its side.

Turns out that:
1) the orings supplied are pretty inconsistent. I've some that are skinner than the rest, and some that are smaller in inner diameter. These were the ones that leaks. I pretty much try out random orings from my baggy, and eventually I'll find one that permanently stops that slow juice bleed.

2) the "groove" that this oring sits around are also inconsistent on some units. Causes the same problem.

Might be worth a shot if like me, you have a baggie of random orings.


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[narrdarr]

i do everything the same way you do, except my tails are shorter than your. i'll try making them long next time.

also how much fiction should i have when i pull the cotton through the coil? when i read other post i read basically no fiction is best but thats not working out. so should i make the cotton alittle denser/tighter?

do you keep the mesh sides on or take them off? i've been taking them off.

 

[yooperdad]

Lol just popping in to say.... That oring on the chimney is the devil. If you *think* you've done everything possibly right, and you still get leaks when laid on its side, it's likely that guy.

I hope this isn't gonna be an unpopular opinion, but I've bought 12 lemos, 3 for myself and 9 as gifts for others. 7 of them never leaks no matter what. The other 5 will bleed juice when laid on its side.

Turns out that:
1) the orings supplied are pretty inconsistent. I've some that are skinner than the rest, and some that are smaller in inner diameter. These were the ones that leaks. I pretty much try out random orings from my baggy, and eventually I'll find one that permanently stops that slow juice bleed.

2) the "groove" that this oring sits around are also inconsistent on some units. Causes the same problem.

Might be worth a shot if like me, you have a baggie of random orings.

THANK YOU! Someone in this thread said I was doing a "diservice to the Lemo" when I mentioned I wouldn't put them in my pocket for the leaking, and that I needed to learn how to build. Same build, same wicks, and now they seem to have quit leaking. Go figure!

 

[WeirdWillie]

i do everything the same way you do, except my tails are shorter than your. i'll try making them long next time.

also how much fiction should i have when i pull the cotton through the coil? when i read other post i read basically no fiction is best but thats not working out. so should i make the cotton alittle denser/tighter?

do you keep the mesh sides on or take them off? i've been taking them off.

Remove the mesh completely.
Look up my bridge wicking method starting back on page 165 for some reason when I was posting everything it got posted a little out of order, but start there I put all the info in there in detail.

 

[NOVA jon]

THANK YOU! Someone in this thread said I was doing a "diservice to the Lemo" when I mentioned I wouldn't put them in my pocket for the leaking, and that I needed to learn how to build. Same build, same wicks, and now they seem to have quit leaking. Go figure!

Wow, funny how people interpret things! Never said you needed to learn how to build, suggested you try weird willies build if you were having troubles with your other builds!

Maybe disservice was too strong, sorry if you took it the wrong way..

 

[narrdarr]

Remove the mesh completely.
Look up my bridge wicking method starting back on page 165 for some reason when I was posting everything it got posted a little out of order, but start there I put all the info in there in detail.

i'll give it shot later tonight when i run out of juice. ty

 

[2legsshrt]

Give the plug some more time. Once you've used it a few times, you'll see it's really the better way to go.

Well I had it happen again and got juice all over my P3. No more put the screw in. I really like the way these things work with the NI200 but not impressed with the fill method.

 

[Zombo]

So, I know this question had probably been answered way back, but I haven't the patience to search through 221 pages of posts.

What's the wire that the Lemo comes built with / extra in the package? Is it 26 gauge nichrome? I just built two nearly identical coils on two Lemo Drops, one using 26 gauge kanthal and the other using whatever came in the plastic baggie. Both 2.4mm interior diameter, 9 wraps slightly spaced, using the post holes, both wicked with rayon. The kanthal build came out to 1.3 ohms, the included wire came out to 0.9 ohm.

They vape pretty much the same, not a whole lot of difference. However, the included wire seems a little less springy, a bit easier to work with, and has lower resistance. Is it just nichrome?

BOOM!

I forgot where I had heard it was kanthal, and now I'm not sure if it's even correct.

However, could the differences you noticed be due to other factors? I think the stock coils are built under optimum tension, for instance. This could explain why they seem sturdy, less springy, easy to work with, and give a particular Ohms reading. Of course, since I'm new at this, none of what I'm saying might be real!

I shouldn't assume that you did not also wrap with tension, however.

If it is Nichrome...well, I really liked that coil, I may just have to switch over to Nichrome.

ETA: I just watched Rip Trippers Lemo Drop review. He claims it's Kanthal, btw.

 

[jhhollier]

Remove the mesh completely.
Look up my bridge wicking method starting back on page 165 for some reason when I was posting everything it got posted a little out of order, but start there I put all the info in there in detail.

I'm gonna have to try the bridge wicking again. Last time I think I used too much cotton. Currently, I have mine wicked as RandyF posted earlier in the thread but I'm getting dry hits. This is due to my error I'm pretty sure. I don't think I'm using enough cotton. I need to find consistency in my wicking. One build it works amazing the next I have to go easy on the vaping to get through the tank otherwise I'll end up dry hitting on every third or fourth vape. This last wick I removed the two outer layers from the KGD hoping that would change things and it seemed to for about 1/4 of the tank then I started getting dry hits. I'm determined to get better and consistent because when I get it right, the vape from the Lemo is fantastic.

 

[TheKiwi]

Haha just wanna say that a good number of times, it is a build/wicking or user error (not tightening things up properly). I've helped quite a few people out who just weren't making sure everything is snug, or if they completely lost orings

It was more of a, if AAAALL things have been tried and check and somehow it's still bleeding, that's def one possible culprit. At least based on the sheer volume of lemos I've handled


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[VaPreis]

Haha just wanna say that a good number of times, it is a build/wicking or user error (not tightening things up properly). I've helped quite a few people out who just weren't making sure everything is snug, or if they completely lost orings

It was more of a, if AAAALL things have been tried and check and somehow it's still bleeding, that's def one possible culprit. At least based on the sheer volume of lemos I've handled


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

One of mine came out of the box with the chimney o-ring missing. Luckily, I had spares.

 

[whiteweazel21]

What do you guys do about stuck parts? I was trying to unscrew the chimney base, and the top part and neither seems to giving. I tried screwing in/screwing out, light and hard twists but no luck for about 30 minutes. I'm thinking maybe hot water, but was hoping not to get the coil wet...

Definitely not using pliers, going to damage/scrape it for sure since the metal is so thin...

P.S. using the bridge method the last few attempts and my results have improved dramatically. Occasionally I do have light saturation issues but waaaay less then before and easily remedied. I think using less cotton through the coil would solve this -- I'm new and tend to put a bit much. Overall though, chain-vaping around 20w with really wet and flavorful hits. I think the bridge helps saturation, wicking error, and generally keeping more juice in the chamber, keeping the coil fed.

 

[cigatron]

What do you guys do about stuck parts? I was trying to unscrew the chimney base, and the top part and neither seems to giving. I tried screwing in/screwing out, light and hard twists but no luck for about 30 minutes. I'm thinking maybe hot water, but was hoping not to get the coil wet...

Definitely not using pliers, going to damage/scrape it for sure since the metal is so thin...

I found that using only a very very light grip on the chimney while loosening works best. Gripping tightly deforms the chimney and makes it near impossible to unscrew.

 

[WeirdWillie]

I found that using only a very very light grip on the chimney while loosening works best. Gripping tightly deforms the chimney and makes it near impossible to unscrew.

+1 on this
Also I found back and forward motion helps.

 

[TheKiwi]

Haha I tend to over tighten my lemo drop. This is what happened when I tried to unscrew the deck, with the 510 base section removed first:

Sliced it right open and took me 10 mins to stop the bleeding lololol

I also happen to be the unluckiest guy around


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[2legsshrt]

Pliers. LOL Ahhhhh is that PBusardos hand.

 

[2legsshrt]

I will have to say I am having real good luck with this NI200 build in here. No changes in resistance. Hits TP once in a while but not on a regular basis. No dry hits of course. Well a couple at 410 with KGD seems to not do it with the stock drip tip for some reason. But it seems to use a lot of juice. It would break my bank if I used store bought. I'd have to go back to smoking to save money.

 

[TheKiwi]

I've found the lemo to be my best performer for ni200 too. Rock steady connections. But yeah it goes through juice real fast


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[2legsshrt]

I think I will put an NI200 build in my Kanger subohm and try it out. If it works as well as Kanthal there might be a Lemo for sale for $20=$25 I still have one in the box.

 

[2legsshrt]

Say what is the trick to putting the Oring under the 510 pin. It doesn't work on my ohm meter unless I screw it down so tight I think I will break it.