That's the best part of Rebuildables for me, also why I own 6 lemo's [emoji20]
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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That's the best part of Rebuildables for me, also why I own 6 lemo's [emoji20]
I'd like to have another one for sure, so when I screw up a build and get ticked I can toss it and vape away on my other one
I figure for the price of the things it doesn't hurt to have a couple. They were tricky to find for a while, always out of stock, so I bought in volume. I like to fiddle with things so all six end up with different setups to see which I tend to vape more. One thing is for sure, with my current vape setup I can never go back to tight draw devices. Tried to test out a friends nautilus the other day to see why his coils were tasting burnt and I couldn't get a hit off of them.
Ya I have a delta, and I can take 3 hits max before I toss it and pickup my lemo
I just wanna chime in and say I've tried kayfun, fogger v4, mustank and I was gonna just say f.it and never buy another tank just rdas I'm so glad that 2 days ago I got a gem in the mail I hit my lemo for the first time and my brain said ah hell yeah lol
6?...wow...lol
The first one drove me mad for almost a week because i couldnt get it wicked properly. But 6.... thats x6 more gray hair for me.
Once you get them down they wick like a dream. The learning curve for wicking was a bit much but I can nail it every time now. The grey hair is coming from the Nickel builds for DNA40 temp control. Only thing I can get it to work on constantly right now is my hobo. Nickel is fickle.
I just gave my black Lemo to my wife. It will be a grueling test of the black finishes durability. She's had it for nearly a week and no sign of wear yet despite numerous rides in her purse.
Color me very impressed. LOL
Ni200 builds are easy in the Lemo, I'll post a mini howto this weekend, the trick is to work harden the wire first and tighten the living piss out of everything.
I have to say, it's a lot easier to build than my kayfun clone or fogger. Nickel or kanthal, connections are the key. I like a higher oriented coil, seems to give me a little better flavor!
I have put a couple of nickel builds into the Lemo. For the most part they work fantastic..... Only real issue I have is sometimes (I believe it's only when I pick it up "cold") I will take a draw and it feels like I just inhaled flames into my chest. It doesn't happen often, but when it does its a horrible sensation. It has to be something with the connections, i just built a hobo dripper with nickel and been using it for a week and haven't had a single hiccup with it yet. Once I get it dialed in I am sure it will be great.
It's funny, one of my Lemo's is super soiled in terms of vape and readings with nickel, the other is a tricky little cus as I am constantly fiddling with it. I've cleaned it from top to bottom, totally disassembled it and reassembled it paying strict attention to make sure everything it tight and still finicky as a mug! Don't get me wrong, still Vapes well, just not as well as the other with the same build. I have 2 full size and 1 drop, the one full size I sometimes want to just keep out of the rotation but find myself saying "I can fix it" too often!!
So, what is yhe trick to wicking the lemo? Mine is doing ok, but it could do better. Please share you wicking methods so i can try different methods on this thing. I can use 24, 26, or 28 awg kanthal. I have all three gauges to work with.
OK, I've been playing with my Lemo since Christmas. Just using the original coil and experimenting with wicks. I've been getting a little better at that after some painful failures. Then tonight I was about to stick a new wick in and I dropped the build deck. Only a few inches to the table but enough to destroy the coil.
I built my first Lemo wick. 28g Kanthal, around 7 or 8 open wraps, 3/32 drill bit. It came out at 1.4 ohms. I got that design from a post earlier in this thread. When I first went through the thread I cut and pasted many pages of useful bits of advice on coils and wicks and whatever caught my eye. I didn't copy the names of the posters, I do remember I got several snippets from Vaping Wolf. thank you all.
I just started puffing on it. Seems to be better than anything I got from the original coil. It's good at 13 W.
Getting the wick set up was a lot different because the thinner coil meant a thinner wick. The wicks on the original coil almost filled the gap between the upper post and the chimney. The new wick tucked neatly in against the post.
Here's something that worked well for me. I picked up some DeWalt drill bits. Unlike the silver drill bit I was using for Kanger coils they are black. With my dodgy old eyes that made it much easier to see the coil as I was wrapping it. It was the first open coil I have done and it came out quite even.
I have a question. Maybe a stupid question. I know liquid finds its own level. The outer part where you can see the liquid is connected to the part inside the chimney by the juice channels. Why doesn't the juice inside the chimney just keep rising until it is the same level as the liquid outside the chimney? What am I missing here?
I built my first Lemo wick. 28g Kanthal, around 7 or 8 open wraps, 3/32 drill bit. It came out at 1.4 ohms. I got that design from a post earlier in this thread. When I first went through the thread I cut and pasted many pages of useful bits of advice on coils and wicks and whatever caught my eye. I didn't copy the names of the posters, I do remember I got several snippets from Vaping Wolf. thank you all.
I just started puffing on it. Seems to be better than anything I got from the original coil. It's good at 13 W.
Getting the wick set up was a lot different because the thinner coil meant a thinner wick. The wicks on the original coil almost filled the gap between the upper post and the chimney. The new wick tucked neatly in against the post.
Here's something that worked well for me. I picked up some DeWalt drill bits. Unlike the silver drill bit I was using for Kanger coils they are black. With my dodgy old eyes that made it much easier to see the coil as I was wrapping it. It was the first open coil I have done and it came out quite even.
I have a question. Maybe a stupid question. I know liquid finds its own level. The outer part where you can see the liquid is connected to the part inside the chimney by the juice channels. Why doesn't the juice inside the chimney just keep rising until it is the same level as the liquid outside the chimney? What am I missing here?
because of the vacum. It's sealed on top, so you only pull the juice out of it when you take a drag to change the vacum. Or put it on it's side so one of the channels gets air and the other gets liquid. Which is the main reason for leaks if you dont have lots of wick to keep it sealed. If that makes any sense.
If its black i think it might be black paint overspray that makes it look burned..
That makes sense. My brother has the stainless steel one. I'll check it out and see if that's the case
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