The Next Big thing.... Porous Ceramic Wicks

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bapgood

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Looks like I might be trying the o-ring setup sooner than I thought. While trying to finish it up this morning, I totaled the 510 end :facepalm:.

So I grabbed a couple of carto ends and took the dremil and soldering iron to them, along with the help of the trusty RC plane prop balancing tool. I really don't want to try soldering a post since I have soldered the connector.

 

ratchet62

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I didn't look to much, but a silicone o-ring looks like the best solution so far. They can handle about twice as much heat as the typical o-ring.

Silicone will work fine. I work with flexible heaters, where the heater ribbon is encased in a silicone sleeve. I've had the surface temp of the heater up to 500 F with no problems.

What you have to remember about any molded silicone part, such as a o-ring, is that extreme heat (> 600 F) is used to cure the 2 part silicone that is used. This heat is required to activate and accelerate the catalytic reaction that actually causes the silicone to state change from a gel to the flexible solid.

The silicone used for orings especially medical grade, is not the same as the caulking you get in the home store. Different chemical makeup, with completely different catalysts.

If your Atty is getting silicone hot enough to off gas, then you have bigger problems than getting a little acetic acid.

Sent from somewhere on planet Earth.
 
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bapgood

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Silicone will work fine. I work with flexible heaters, where the heater ribbon is encased in a silicone sleeve. I've had the surface temp of the heater up to 500 F with no problems.

What you have to remember about any molded silicone part, such as a o-ring, is that extreme heat (> 600 F) is used to cure the 2 part silicone that is used. This heat is required to activate and accelerate the catalytic reaction that actually causes the silicone to state change from a gel to the flexible solid.

The silicone used for orings especially medical grade, is not the same as the caulking you get in the home store. Different chemical makeup, with completely different catalysts.

If your Atty is getting silicone hot enough to off gas, then you have bigger problems than getting a little acetic acid.

Sent from somewhere on planet Earth.

Good info, Thanks!

You are right about the heat. If the ceramic stays saturated with juice, heat should get nowhere near the limit. A food/medical grade silicone o-ring seems like the best choice to me.

Now if I could only find some locally :D
 

toothfairy

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Looks like I might be trying the o-ring setup sooner than I thought. While trying to finish it up this morning, I totaled the 510 end :facepalm:.

So I grabbed a couple of carto ends and took the dremil and soldering iron to them, along with the help of the trusty RC plane prop balancing tool. I really don't want to try soldering a post since I have soldered the connector.


Balance any props lately ?
 

bapgood

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Are you stretching on smaller o rings? I use undersized frequently for better gripping but it needs light adjustments as you go to get the tolerance right.

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Yeah, smaller silicone RC shock o-rings (forgot I had them) they stretch fairly well. I'm shrinking my coil hole a smidge and drilled it out on the lathe :D so it's as centered as possible. If I can't make this work I may have to wait on this. If I had a good 8mm tap I think it would fit pretty well with the extra 1mm.
 

bapgood

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So I got it to work!!! But it flooded and spit hot juice....it was not happy.

My kayfun clone works so well I'm just going back to channels and pins and needles.


Gdeal.....how is the inverted bird house treating you?

I'm really liking mine, I just put some cotton in to see if I can tell a difference (yes, I kept it below the air hole this time :D)
 

gdeal

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So I got it to work!!! But it flooded and spit hot juice....it was not happy.

My kayfun clone works so well I'm just going back to channels and pins and needles.


Gdeal.....how is the inverted bird house treating you?

I'm really liking mine, I just put some cotton in to see if I can tell a difference (yes, I kept it below the air hole this time :D)

Sound like that setup was a bit angry with you.....

I pulled the birdhouse and went back to the monkey bar today. The vape stayed too sharp (very hot, tinge of TH, prolly not enough coil to ceramic apposition). The ability to hot wrap a coil on the MB makes a difference and it was performing so well, I did a quick swap. I think my birdhouse may need a bigger hole and maybe some cotton to close the gaps at the post base where the air hole inlet is to tame it down.
 

bapgood

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Went to the big city today and acquired a new friend....The Russian :D

Time to grind a new wick!

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bapgood

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Just got home and hurry and wrapped up some silica and gave the Russian a go. He is a top heavy brute, but I will say in my limited use with it and silica wicks in general, that its the best silica vape I have had.

Tomorrow I will grind up a ceramic inverted bird house and give it a proper go and compare it to the BFL (bapfun lite).

At $95 it's the most I have spent on an atty, so I have high expectations. But the build quality is excellent, and I think I could even live with it and silica if I had to. So that's a good start.

I think the Russian would be right at home on sidewinder type mod that kept the atty lower.
 
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