The Next Big thing.... Porous Ceramic Wicks
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i haven't tried it yet but this guy say's this works.
How to wrap a coil on a ceramic wick! - YouTube
How to wrap a coil on a ceramic wick! - YouTube
In sorry to say this-it worked out OK in that video, but I lost count of how many times that wick could have broken in that process. If you could have seen my eyebrows as the 28g got wrapped around the quick while in the hole.....
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Hrm...I don't know, that could have something to do with it. It seems like heat is a common denominator though. The second picture on this link may or may not apply to the Alumina being used here, but if it does, I think any heat will help improve wicking..https://ecs.confex.com/ecs/224/webprogram/Abstract/Paper25342/A1-0133.pdf
I guess it depends on how long it takes. If it was just trapped air, I wouldn't think it would take any more than 30 min of vaping to remedy. If it's taking hours+ to really shine, I think it's gotta be something else. I could be wrong though. I'll start experimenting with you guys soon
I have found that some wicks need less to no break in compared to others....I haven't been able to quite put a finger why.
Straight round wicks do seem to get going faster than other shaped wicks in my experience.
Arg...that technique is so last year...The key to ceramic vaping is to get the wire to have full contact with the ceramic wick. The cotton wrap works to eliminate gaps and shorten a break-in period where gunk would eventually fill the gaps. Hot wrapping was introduced and the whole need to fill the gaps with cotton, etc was eliminated.
I laughed when he mentioned great Throat Hit about 30 seconds into the video. If a ceramic wick is coiled correctly you barely get any throat hit at all (only from the Nic thats in your juice). That the one issue with ceramic, is that it can be too smooth.
I think alot of the early frustration with ceramic wicks is memorialized in that video. Wrapping wire around the wick like that is asking for a "Oh snap!" moment. It took way to much practice to get that technique right and at $3+ a pop for the FC2000 was too expensive for the learning curve. You are better off wrapping the wire off the genny or using the Petar K Method.
I prefer to hot wrap and I usually need no break in period for any of my wicks. But...
...here's the but; I agree with Bap. Sometimes I do get a wick that doesn't perform well immediately. I am not completely sure why either. All my wicks have come from the same block of material and are treated the same way. Cut and grinded into shape, rinsed, torched, ultrasonic bath (heated), then torched dry, then bathed in lemon juice, then rinse and torched dry, then hot wrapped.
I have looked at macro shots of the grits and they are very uniform. How the grits connect are not as uniform. I suspect that during the fusing process there may "defects" in porosity created. Meaning that some pore have nice tight inter grit spaces and some pores look like they have grits that didnt really fused (too open). I can say that I havent had any white ceramic wicks that didnt wick and vape well. Most are great straight from the get go after coiling, some need a tank or two to really wick well.
Here is a shot with a pixel analysis to looking for averages of grains and pores. Circles are grains, boxes are pores. You can see some defects where there are large open spaces. Mostly on the outside of the wick and more than likely they came from grinding and detachment of grit. But the spaces are there. If there are a lot of larger spaces throughout a wick, it may require more of a break-in period.
(...my hypothesis...)
Ceramic carto.....almost
A7 Atty, 28g 2ohm "micro" coil, surrounded by cotton
The coil ohm needs to be dropped by around half, I just didn't want to be short. Good thing the DNA has lots of power on tap, it vaped pretty swell at 15 watts but took a little time to get going. I used the A7 center air pin as one connection and one of the posts for the other.
Next step is to drop the coil to ~1-1.2 ohms and very carefully reduce the OD of the wick. The hole in the wick is ~2.5mm and I found a screw that screws into the wick/coil real nice, then I chuck the excess length of the screw into a hand drill, run the drill with my left hand and the dremel with diamond disk with my right, and it works pretty good.
*Edit - I think one of those screws is going to get drilled out and become and good way to make a solid coil connection
*Edit #2 - heck why not use the screw for both connections.....then you have adjustable ohm's
A7 Atty, 28g 2ohm "micro" coil, surrounded by cotton
The coil ohm needs to be dropped by around half, I just didn't want to be short. Good thing the DNA has lots of power on tap, it vaped pretty swell at 15 watts but took a little time to get going. I used the A7 center air pin as one connection and one of the posts for the other.
Next step is to drop the coil to ~1-1.2 ohms and very carefully reduce the OD of the wick. The hole in the wick is ~2.5mm and I found a screw that screws into the wick/coil real nice, then I chuck the excess length of the screw into a hand drill, run the drill with my left hand and the dremel with diamond disk with my right, and it works pretty good.
*Edit - I think one of those screws is going to get drilled out and become and good way to make a solid coil connection
*Edit #2 - heck why not use the screw for both connections.....then you have adjustable ohm's
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hey gdeal, you haven't mentioned much about your experinces with ceramic in a reomizer.....you still playing around with it...how do you feel it compares with your latest experiments.
Yeah, i think there can be alot of variation in porosity between wicks even cut from the same block..I'm sure we've all had the same experince of making or buying a wick that preformed exceptionally well, and hoarding and babying the wick for as long as possible, before the inevitable dropping of the mod.
Arg...that technique is so last year...The key to ceramic vaping is to get the wire to have full contact with the ceramic wick. The cotton wrap works to eliminate gaps and shorten a break-in period where gunk would eventually fill the gaps. Hot wrapping was introduced and the whole need to fill the gaps with cotton, etc was eliminated.
I laughed when he mentioned great Throat Hit about 30 seconds into the video. If a ceramic wick is coiled correctly you barely get any throat hit at all (only from the Nic thats in your juice). That the one issue with ceramic, is that it can be too smooth.
I think alot of the early frustration with ceramic wicks is memorialized in that video. Wrapping wire around the wick like that is asking for a "Oh snap!" moment. It took way to much practice to get that technique right and at $3+ a pop for the FC2000 was too expensive for the learning curve. You are better off wrapping the wire off the genny or using the Petar K Method.
I prefer to hot wrap and I usually need no break in period for any of my wicks. But...
...here's the but; I agree with Bap. Sometimes I do get a wick that doesn't perform well immediately. I am not completely sure why either. All my wicks have come from the same block of material and are treated the same way. Cut and grinded into shape, rinsed, torched, ultrasonic bath (heated), then torched dry, then bathed in lemon juice, then rinse and torched dry, then hot wrapped.
I have looked at macro shots of the grits and they are very uniform. How the grits connect are not as uniform. I suspect that during the fusing process there may "defects" in porosity created. Meaning that some pore have nice tight inter grit spaces and some pores look like they have grits that didnt really fused (too open). I can say that I havent had any white ceramic wicks that didnt wick and vape well. Most are great straight from the get go after coiling, some need a tank or two to really wick well.
Here is a shot with a pixel analysis to looking for averages of grains and pores. Circles are grains, boxes are pores. You can see some defects where there are large open spaces. Mostly on the outside of the wick and more than likely they came from grinding and detachment of grit. But the spaces are there. If there are a lot of larger spaces throughout a wick, it may require more of a break-in period.
(...my hypothesis...)
Ceramic is still going strong in the Reo. Fantastic vape. Other than modding the Reo for improved pin/battery contact, I havent changed anything. Its been six weeks of continuous use and all I do is a weekly removal of coil/wick, then lightly torch and rinse and back in it goes. Simple and trouble free. Slighly juicier vape than the KFL due to obsessive squonking....
First post:
This morning ready for a cleaning.
Cleaned and reset in 5 mins.
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Arg...that technique is so last year...The key to ceramic vaping is to get the wire to have full contact with the ceramic wick. The cotton wrap works to eliminate gaps and shorten a break-in period where gunk would eventually fill the gaps. Hot wrapping was introduced and the whole need to fill the gaps with cotton, etc was eliminated.
I laughed when he mentioned great Throat Hit about 30 seconds into the video. If a ceramic wick is coiled correctly you barely get any throat hit at all (only from the Nic thats in your juice). That the one issue with ceramic, is that it can be too smooth.
I think alot of the early frustration with ceramic wicks is memorialized in that video. Wrapping wire around the wick like that is asking for a "Oh snap!" moment. It took way to much practice to get that technique right and at $3+ a pop for the FC2000 was too expensive for the learning curve. You are better off wrapping the wire off the genny or using the Petar K Method.
I prefer to hot wrap and I usually need no break in period for any of my wicks. But...
...here's the but; I agree with Bap. Sometimes I do get a wick that doesn't perform well immediately. I am not completely sure why either. All my wicks have come from the same block of material and are treated the same way. Cut and grinded into shape, rinsed, torched, ultrasonic bath (heated), then torched dry, then bathed in lemon juice, then rinse and torched dry, then hot wrapped.
I have looked at macro shots of the grits and they are very uniform. How the grits connect are not as uniform. I suspect that during the fusing process there may "defects" in porosity created. Meaning that some pore have nice tight inter grit spaces and some pores look like they have grits that didnt really fused (too open). I can say that I havent had any white ceramic wicks that didnt wick and vape well. Most are great straight from the get go after coiling, some need a tank or two to really wick well.
Here is a shot with a pixel analysis to looking for averages of grains and pores. Circles are grains, boxes are pores. You can see some defects where there are large open spaces. Mostly on the outside of the wick and more than likely they came from grinding and detachment of grit. But the spaces are there. If there are a lot of larger spaces throughout a wick, it may require more of a break-in period.
(...my hypothesis...)
I can't keep up with you pioneers (wish I could, it is fun), I leave all my wicks soaking in plain PG, take one out and there ready to go.
Need some help with "hot wrapping". Every time I try to hot wrap with a torch
I break the wire due to the heat. I must be doing it the wrong way. Will someone
please tell me how they do it without the wire burning in 2. Is there a good video
available? Also, if you use the Petar-k method does that eliminate the need to
hot wrap.
Thanks for the help - I am so frustrated !
Steve
I break the wire due to the heat. I must be doing it the wrong way. Will someone
please tell me how they do it without the wire burning in 2. Is there a good video
available? Also, if you use the Petar-k method does that eliminate the need to
hot wrap.
Thanks for the help - I am so frustrated !
Steve
If you are burning the wire, you need to turn your torch flame down or take the wire/coil out of the flame earlier. I did a vid to show how I wrapped .8 ribbon wire. It requires much more heat than round wire. So if you are using say 30g round, the flame, ceramic glow and overall heat in the video will be excessive. The basic technique is to bring the wire into the flame to glow, then twist the wick, then bring it out of the flame to cool with slight tension on the wire. Repeat for each turn of the coil. I find that keeping the wire stationary and twisting the wick is much more effective and precise than twisting the wire around the wick. For thinner wire, just turn the flame down and dont glow the wire as much. (I use a micro torch, so my approach might be more difficult with a larger torch.)
Ceramic Wick - White Wick - BD13 - Hot wrap .8mm Ribbon - YouTube
Peter K does not use the hot wrap. You preform the coil on a drill-bill of the same size as your ceramic wick, then reverse screw the wick into the coil. I think NamVet68 posted on his method in this thread.
Is this wick used in the picture from an alumina oxided rub stone??? What grit?
Thanks gdeal! I will try turning down the heat and turn the wick instead of wire.
Watched you vid and would you please tell me how you are holding the wick. I have
not found a good way to secure the wick in order to turn it without slippage.
Steve
Watched you vid and would you please tell me how you are holding the wick. I have
not found a good way to secure the wick in order to turn it without slippage.
Steve
Just a long metal drip tip in the cap of an atty, the wick is secured with a couple of tooth picks.
@badinfluence357 - that is 60 grit rub stone.
I have to try the Hot Wrap. I've been heating the wire before wrapping to get the spring out and then wrap it on the RBA. I only have large torches tho. I should be able to turn the flame small enough to do this.
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