lol....it's been a while since I have used it. But one thing that was kind of nice about it was that the delrin expands a little with the heat and locks it in cap.
The Next Big thing.... Porous Ceramic Wicks
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lol....it's been a while since I have used it. But one thing that was kind of nice about it was that the delrin expands a little with the heat and locks it in cap.
I didn't come up with the idea....but I made this a long time ago....where's my props
Like your design. Couple of things. Is this 3/4 and would the white delrin be ok instead of the black delrin/acetal?
Color shouldn't matter, I used 1" and turned it down on my lathe to just fit inside the cap.
Wish me luck!
Any suggestions?
Here is my suggestions. Go slow and keep things clean and wet. Drill a bit then back it out clean all the sludge off with water. And don't drill all the way thru, keep a little at the bottom. When I drill for inside coils it always breaks out the back side, unless I use pointed diamond bits.
I have to make one of these for both my RBA's. Looks great
I didn't come up with the idea....but I made this a long time ago....where's my props
Actually that works out good as the bits are only 2.25" in length, so not drilling all the way through the 2" side of the block would certainly be more convenient. Was thinking of going in about 1.5" and then using a dremel diamond blade to whack them off.
I am worried about sludge build up, if nothing else it will dull the bit quicker. I figure I can raise the bit out of the block several times and rinse, but I need to rinse in place (vertically) as I wouldnt want to remove the clamps and risk not aligning the hole right on subsequent passes. Thinking about maybe recruiting my shop-vac for assistance. Fill the cavity with water and suck it all out, sludge and all..........
You might be able to try a large container of water with a small hose & adjustable clamp (available in a pet store in the aquarium department) above your work surface and set up a small stream or heavy drip of water keeping the ceramic good and wet as you work on it, that should probably be sufficient. You can flush it right there as you work. Start a siphon and have a large tub under the block to catch the run-off.
It will likely be messy, but as long as you keep the water contained (and away from the electrical stuff) it should go fairly smoothly.
Looking forward to see how this works out : )
Good luck.
It will likely be messy, but as long as you keep the water contained (and away from the electrical stuff) it should go fairly smoothly.
Looking forward to see how this works out : )
Good luck.
Actually, I have a fish aquarium pump at the ready to try this as well. The mess potential has me seeking cleaner options though.
I have been thinking, if I make the hole so that the outside of the bit actually is exposed to the air, rinsing might be easier. In other words drill the hole right up against the edge so the OD side of the bit is exposed. Watery sludge might just channel out of the bottom of the hole in progress.
Sounds sensible, I was thinking of a bowl and a juice-bottle with water - drizzling into hole/on-bit while clamped and drilling
Wish me luck!
Any suggestions?
I have heard that the ceramic just crumbles inside of the bit. A few people have tried these before. But good luck! I was going to attempt it until I was told it wouldn't work.
That sounds to me like the most reasonable approach. My advice: go slow to avoid the potential crumbling problem...
Im rooting for you mike!! Just remember me when you get about 40 premaid...
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Those bits look good. It looks like the cutting part will make enough space for the dust in the tube. As long as you keep the block steady and using a good drill press, it should work.
I think the people who tried it before and had crumbling problems were doing it "Dry". Keeping the stone wet should help a lot, as long as you can control the muddy slurry the grinding produces. I like your idea of keeping the drilling near the edge of the stone - as long as you can keep it stable as you drill - it would probably help with the gunk coming off the bit.
I think its very do-able. For those that say its impossible - I read somewhere that the ancient Egyptians drilled very clean holes in solid stone by using a piece of rope, water, and tubes of copper with sand as an abrasive. They looped the rope around the copper tube and twisted the thing back & forth while pouring sand and a little water on the stone. When they got the hole as deep as they needed it to be, they just pulled the copper tube out and smacked the center piece of stone with a mallet & lifted it out. Seemed to work for them ....and YOU have power tools!
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Wish me luck!
Any suggestions?
this calls for a change in venue - move on over to the bath tub!
After 4 tries, and 2 drill bits I got one wick long enough for my atty.
I think the problem is either the trueness of the bit, or the drill/chuck. Never noticed a problem with trueness before but it is an economy drill press. In any event the wicks kept breaking inside the bit. Crumbling was not a problem. Kept a steady stream of water flowing on it from the top. Experimented with lifting the bit and going straight through. Actually had better results moving faster rather than slower.
I have 8 bits left, I will go at it again soon.
On a separate note. I also got samples from a friend today of the AOR and the Boron Carbide. Neither look as porous as the BON AOW but I will test them out.
I think the problem is either the trueness of the bit, or the drill/chuck. Never noticed a problem with trueness before but it is an economy drill press. In any event the wicks kept breaking inside the bit. Crumbling was not a problem. Kept a steady stream of water flowing on it from the top. Experimented with lifting the bit and going straight through. Actually had better results moving faster rather than slower.
I have 8 bits left, I will go at it again soon.
On a separate note. I also got samples from a friend today of the AOR and the Boron Carbide. Neither look as porous as the BON AOW but I will test them out.
The white BON Rubbing Stone is still the winner for best capillary action!
My Capillary test method.
• Cut 3 wicks at an equal length of 35mm long
• Put all 3 in the same Genesis (as shown in the picture)
• Filled the vessel with a 50/50 ejuice
• Placed a thin cotton tissue (makeup remover pad split in half) over the tops of the 3 wicks
• Waited to observe which wick saturated first, in essence which had the best capillary action
Results: white first by far, red second, black a distant third.
Also performed a burn test where I lit the wicks on fire burning the ejuice to see which would burn longest (or deepest into the tank). The results were similar, white first, red a close second, and the black wouldnt even lite.
Neither the AOR nor the black carbide appeared to be 60 grit, while they both appeared to be the same, it was more like 80 or 90 grit. The black carbide had great lateral strength, if we could get this in the right porosity it might be worth it.
Asked my friend to see what else the Koreans had up their sleeve.............
My Capillary test method.
• Cut 3 wicks at an equal length of 35mm long
• Put all 3 in the same Genesis (as shown in the picture)
• Filled the vessel with a 50/50 ejuice
• Placed a thin cotton tissue (makeup remover pad split in half) over the tops of the 3 wicks
• Waited to observe which wick saturated first, in essence which had the best capillary action
Results: white first by far, red second, black a distant third.
Also performed a burn test where I lit the wicks on fire burning the ejuice to see which would burn longest (or deepest into the tank). The results were similar, white first, red a close second, and the black wouldnt even lite.
Neither the AOR nor the black carbide appeared to be 60 grit, while they both appeared to be the same, it was more like 80 or 90 grit. The black carbide had great lateral strength, if we could get this in the right porosity it might be worth it.
Asked my friend to see what else the Koreans had up their sleeve.............
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