The Orchid clone has arrived!!!
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Orchid V4 top cap o ring size. Mine seems too loose in the top cap. Anyone know what size replacement for a tobacco clone! Thanks!
I want this V6, from FT: https://www.fasttech.com/product/2030700
They look the same, except the one at FT has threads at the top of the chimney so it won't pull apart accidentally.
...but I just got a black V4 that I haven't even taken out of the box yet, so...
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I've always just used Kayfun parts on my Orchid: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/thekiwi/6169-kayfun-replacement-o-rings-screws.htmlOrchid V4 top cap o ring size. Mine seems too loose in the top cap. Anyone know what size replacement for a tobacco clone! Thanks!
I think the one that supports the chimney is 8mmOD x 5mmID x 1.5mm thickness. The one at the tank threads (on the outside) I think is 20mmOD x 18mmID x 1mm thickness.
re-wicked my orchid and refill it!, the orchid with taifun nano tank and KF replacement cap holds almost 5ml!
$8.44 Orchid V2 Styled Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (2.5-3.0ml) - stainless steel + PMMA tank / 23mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.82 Replacement PC Colored Nano Tank for Taifun GT - black / w/ acrylic top cap at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$2.45 Replacement Top Cap for 22mm Kayfun Lite / Kayfun v3.1 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$8.44 Orchid V2 Styled Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (2.5-3.0ml) - stainless steel + PMMA tank / 23mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.82 Replacement PC Colored Nano Tank for Taifun GT - black / w/ acrylic top cap at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$2.45 Replacement Top Cap for 22mm Kayfun Lite / Kayfun v3.1 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Orchid V2's are the only thing that I use currently... I'm glad that I ran across this thread, i'm going to be ordering those taifun nano kits and top caps.But I have been searching for awhile for phillips head post screws... Does anyone know where I can find some, that will work on 4. I have 3 of these and they're a pain with the hex key. I've searched through the topic and haven't found anything. Thought I read somewhere that they were m2's, but I can't find that again either....
I noticed this too on all my Kayfun top fill caps I put on my V4's, but none of them leak air or liquid. All four of them are tight despite it.
They are M2s, but you won't find any with small enough heads. If you buy a newer Orchid that comes with the Phillips heads, they'll come with extra screws. Probably easier than buying screws and grinding down the heads, and it probably would cost almost the same.
I ended up buying a black V4 for the extra screws to fix my V1.I should be getting my KF Five Pawns tanks in a couple of days - I think that's what's gonna work with the top-fill cap and V4 chimney that I also bought to fix the V1 (the regular KF m-tanks were too tall).
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Dunno...when I set up my V1 with the V4 chimney and regular m-tank, sucker was not even close to touching (like a 6mm gap). The chimney wasn't even screwing onto the base.
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My top fill cap was only a millimeter or two taller than original, but still enough to seal against the o-ring. Not sure what's different about the V1 build deck but it sounds like it's shorter...? I only know that the V2/3/4 have the same deck. Never had a V1.
Or... Maybe the longer chimney that you have is actually for the V3. The correct length chimney for a V4 (and KFLV2) is just over 32mm.
Or... Maybe the longer chimney that you have is actually for the V3. The correct length chimney for a V4 (and KFLV2) is just over 32mm.
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I got a V5 from eb*y for cheap. My first build on it has been great. .45 ohm build with 26ga. wire and Japanese cotton. No leaks or dry hits yet. Been carrying it in my hoodie pocket for 2 days.
You got me worried. If you remember, my first orchid came with no bottom-fill screw. I just switched the base with the base of a larger-capacity one, and it is working fine. My planned next order stands as is.
I have four Orchid V4's, all with m-tanks and top fill caps. Once I figured out how to wick it, it's been the perfect tank.... Huge volume tank, quick to fill, great flavor/vapor.... but with all the hype around new tanks like the Youde Goblin, I thought I'd drill one of my Orchids out with a 7/64" drill bit. It worked, and the results are as amazing as you might expect. Vapes are monstrous. No need to try a Goblin anymore. It has too many shortcomings anyway.
Standard sized Orchid is on the bottom right.
Standard sized Orchid is on the bottom right.
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I assume you drilled out both the top deck and side air holes. Did you need to use cobalt drill bits or were you able to do it with a standard drill bit?
Just revisited my orchid v4 after playing around so much with Lemos and Billows and Atlantis tanks. Put the orchid v1 topcap on it for a little different look. I have to say that I forgot how great these tanks really are!!! Put my tobacco adv in there and man that flavor brings back memories!! It just vapes great and sorta has its own way of making juice taste great!
I have an Orchid V4 and it leaks on me when I top fill. It only leaks a few drops then it is fine, but its annoying. I have tried bottom filling but its super slow and a pain.
I have read through this thread about it and I assume my issue is not a seal issue, but a wicking/coil height issue.
I've tried more wick, less wick, wick tail in channel but I guess I'm doing it all wrong because it still leaks.
how much wick should I put in there? how high should the coil be?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
I have read through this thread about it and I assume my issue is not a seal issue, but a wicking/coil height issue.
I've tried more wick, less wick, wick tail in channel but I guess I'm doing it all wrong because it still leaks.
how much wick should I put in there? how high should the coil be?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
I don't put the wick tails in the channels, They lay on the deck just above the channels, usually tucked back under the coil just a bit. Is your O-ring seated in the cap? The coil should be about 1 1/2 mm above the hole.
I put a piece of plastic, like from a zip-lock bag between the drip tip and the top cap, turn it upside down, unscrew the bottom. Often when I take the bottom off, the chamber comes with it-- just a good opportunity to check the wick, then screw it back on. Fill it half-way, and put the bottom back on, using a screwdriver in an airhole to tighten it. Remove the drip-tip, remove the plastic, put the drip-tip back on. Blow on it to remove any excess juice, then suck on it to create a vacuum.
I can refill all of mine in a production-line in a few minutes this way. Few drips, especially when kept upright.
I put a piece of plastic, like from a zip-lock bag between the drip tip and the top cap, turn it upside down, unscrew the bottom. Often when I take the bottom off, the chamber comes with it-- just a good opportunity to check the wick, then screw it back on. Fill it half-way, and put the bottom back on, using a screwdriver in an airhole to tighten it. Remove the drip-tip, remove the plastic, put the drip-tip back on. Blow on it to remove any excess juice, then suck on it to create a vacuum.
I can refill all of mine in a production-line in a few minutes this way. Few drips, especially when kept upright.
You need to completely seal off the chimney for the duration of the refill.
Try this...
1. Remove your drip tip. It makes inserting a needle-tipped bottle easier with the tip out of the way.
2. Using one hand, plug all three holes to your chimney: that's the two intakes plus the drip-tip hole. I use my thumb and middle finger for the two intakes and index finger for the drip tip hole.
3. Using your other hand, twist the top cap to expose the holes and fill it. Maintain that seal from step 2 for the duration, and close it off when you're done filling.
4. Take a vape and yell "VICTORY!"
I never lose a drop nor get any gurgle.
edit: hopefully you meant that you only get leaks immediately after a refill that eventually stop leaking after you purge/vape it. It's not chronically leaking non-stop, is it?
edit #2: I assumed you're talking about using a Kayfun top-fill cap. Without one you're doomed to leak like a sieve removing the standard top-cap. There's no reason to tolerate that when a KF top-fill cap costs $5.
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