Cooler! I'm using a new tablet. It is changing the spelling as it pleases.Cooler? Like a thing you take on a picnic?
I do fine with the drill bits. Plus I have pairs of the same size for dual builds.
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The Overlooked Tootle Puffer Gear Thread
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It did it again! Ok, I've changed settings. Let's see....coilers!
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So, how did you like yours?
I do really like the look of the insides of it. Nice and open. Easy to get to and work on. Not that I know how to. But, if I had to, this is the one that I'ld want to learn on.
I think its great. An unregulated mod, but long battery life. Feels nice in the hand. The 510 is really nice. I like the coating on the box and so that makes it nicer than one I would've made from scratch.
Very FDA proof as you'll always be able to get wiring, switches, mosfets and battery sleds. And yes, it would be easy to learn on.
So Hexohm's use a board called a Okl-T20. It is a DC/DC converter that is set up to deliver around 3.6-6.0 volts up to 20amps. As long as the voltage you require falls withing the range the mod will deliver it will be a great device for you. If you are a very low wattage vaper 3.6v maybe to high, you can check this by checking the screen on your current device and see what voltage it is supplying. If your in the 4-5 volt range and 1.3-1.6 ohm's you will be very happy with the mod and the battery life will be incredible. I have a 60w version of that board and I get 12-14 hours of vape time with a .50ohm to .70 ohm coil, it is pretty amazing how they perform. As far as setting the potentiometer, you just turn it all the way down start vaping and keep turning it up until you get the vape you want and leave it. I keep mine set around the middle at 5 volts and never change it.
Check into ECF Monday and Tuesday to see if there's an announcement on the deeming regs. That's when the 90 day review period ends for OMB/OIRA. They may ask for an extension though.
The one you linked to has a mosfet.
View attachment 522746
Why it has hot glue on the solder joints is another issue altogether.
Can someone let me know that a mosfet is and why I would want one.
I have successfully built my first temp control ni200 coil, or I should say I finally have success with ni200 coil
Easirr to watch the video than try to explain. It works great!
Easy way to make perfect coil.
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Believe me, I've done that. It was my opening line before rendering any help. "If you decide you're not going to continue vaping, please return this stuff back to me." Back then they were adamant they weren't going to quit vaping.
Now I get; Girl I don't even know where that thing is. #SideEye
I'm fully convinced these ex-vapers I know would still be current vapers if I were still supplying everything for them & that's not going to happen ever again.
There's only one person I help now & he didn't cost me a penny- just time, which I don't mind giving. He approached me with questions, seemed genuinely interested & a few days later he bought all his own stuff.
Note 5!!!
Oh nar, I don't take the top cap of the RDA off to drip, uh-uh. I simply pull the drip-tip out of the drip-tip hole with my smallest finger, I hold the mod and unscrew the e-liquid bottle, drip into the drip-tip hole, screw the e-liquid cap back on, and pop the drip-tip back into it's hole
I don't take the whole RDA top-cap off and reveal my build, no. I usually know just from looking at a chamber and knowing what my wick looks like how much e-liquid to drip. An old 510 disposable atty takes around 7 drips after dry-hit, otherwise around 5 drips on the 3rd or 4th drag to prevent a dry-hit on the next drag. A small-chamber rebuildable (such-as the A7 RDA, for example) takes right-around 6 or 7 drips as-well. A regular chamber RDA takes between 8 and 10 drips, although 10 can occasionally cause leakage thru the airholes. I like to drip right around 8 to 9 drops for most RDAs of the Tohb/Igo-W/PlumeVeil size range. My pinky-finger method for taking the drip-tip out of the drip-tip hole is just a quick and easy way to drip directly into the chamber through the RDA's top cap, which also prevents accidentally getting juice into my mouth due-to forgetting to gently blow down the drip-tip after dripping directly into it. I also like dripping into the drip-tip hole to prevent the drip-tip from collecting juice in it's O-rings, which eventually causes wiggling and eventually you wind-up pulling it out of it's hole w/your lips! lol.
Thanks! I think it will work fine. I can always build lower. Now i need to learn about using dual batts! I'll get the regulated version & a mech version for just in case. The only mechs I have are 2 Stingray's I grabbed in the VB sale. I love that magnetic switch. I have a Rig clone that I loathe. The switch unscrews. It's headed for the trash. Have no idea why I still have it.
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That's the one that makes you want to help. The other ones make you want to use some really special words on them.
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Digging into the "Wayback" part of my brain (and a little bit of google-fu).... "Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor" it's a switch/amplifier. It's been 30 years, but I believe that this can be used to control current being delivered to a load. Boden can expand on this much more eloquently than I. I would think that this can be used to "regulate" a mech?
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