The PERFECT Battery Pack Mod

[5cardstud]

Good looking mod. Kudos.

 

[SurvivorMcGyver]

Even my RCR123a's are only 1.5amp max. Sorry I really thought that is what most are recommended to put out.
But when I say 1.5amp max I am talking about factory recommended not what they will actually do!!! I am sure if you test them they will go above and beyond that but it isn't safe at all, this is why low res attys aren't safe because they make the batteries go above the "Factory Recommended" max amperage, a lot above.

But anyways my Tekkeon puts consistent 5.3volts even under load but like you said at 1.6volts the watts are lower then they should be.

I see what your saying....Gotcha ... I quess what's important here is that it meets your needs. I am happy it's working for you. Great mod BTW It just needs a little more "ummmph" for me I'm spoiled at 10-12 watts

 

[chev327fox]

I see what your saying....Gotcha ... I quess what's important here is that it meets your needs. I am happy it's working for you. Great mod BTW It just needs a little more "ummmph" for me I'm spoiled at 10-12 watts

Thanks!! Yeah it is perfect for me and I think it would be perfect for a lot of people. Yeah it doesn't have the watts as much but it still works good at 5.3volts.

I'm curious, did you wire yours up the same as me? I ask because I honestly do get 5.3volt even under load with the way I wired it right to the USB output but like you said I don't think it quite has the high amount of watts.

Good looking mod. Kudos.

Thanks!

 

[chev327fox]

I see what your saying....Gotcha ... I quess what's important here is that it meets your needs. I am happy it's working for you. Great mod BTW It just needs a little more "ummmph" for me I'm spoiled at 10-12 watts

Oh and I think you might be right about bypassing the board and getting more out of it with a separate regulator. I bought one just in case the original wasn't enough but it ended up being perfect so I just am going o keep it this way because I will have my HV Mod soon once IKEN finally gets the Chameleons back in, been waiting forever and I only had me homemade pass-through to hold me over until they get in so I was worried until I got this .

Survivor, let me know how that works out with the regulator because I am probebly going to get another one soon to mod.

 

[Parky50]

Hey McGyver !!!

Oh yeah... I know that Garden of the Gods area well !!!
In fact... I work at the big Verizon facility right there off GOG & 30th.
Lucky you to have the "Garden" as your backyard play area !!!

chev327fox... on my Parky Tekkeon V2 Mod, I tapped in right where the two batteries tie in on the original board and then put a Mad Vapes 5v regulator in line going to the atty connector. It hit's much better than my V1 when I used the board regulator circuit. I could have left the USB output intact, but I sacrificed it to have a top mount button on the V2. Just decided why would I need a pass-through on something that I can vape on for several days before charging. My record is 3 solid days of solid 5v vaping. I never tested the load but it performs awesome and that's all I was going for in the first place... Perfomance/Longevity !!!

 

[chev327fox]

Hey McGyver !!!

Oh yeah... I know that Garden of the Gods area well !!!
In fact... I work at the big Verizon facility right there off GOG & 30th.
Lucky you to have the "Garden" as your backyard play area !!!

chev327fox... on my Parky Tekkeon V2 Mod, I tapped in right where the two batteries tie in on the original board and then put a Mad Vapes 5v regulator in line going to the atty connector. It hit's much better than my V1 when I used the board regulator circuit. I could have left the USB output intact, but I sacrificed it to have a top mount button on the V2. Just decided why would I need a pass-through on something that I can vape on for several days before charging. My record is 3 solid days of solid 5v vaping. I never tested the load but it performs awesome and that's all I was going for in the first place... Perfomance/Longevity !!!

I agree, I am in 1 and a half days and going strong. It works awesome, it's fires my atty just as good as my 5v Prodigy ever did!!! I'm not sure if others have done it differently then I did but there is no way that if someone does it the way I did that they are getting 3.5v under load.

I bought a seperat regulator at MafVapes for this just in case it didn't work on it's own but this thing is perfect and I would never change it and I'm a heavy vapor and I could never get satisfaction from 3.5volts at all. I will probably use the regulator on a new one sometime in the future, maybe on my next one when I make the step by step and I will show people how to make it both ways. The problem with putting your own reg in is you can use the master on/off anymore for the atty anyway.

Oh and I almosr did your top mounted button but I wanted to keep the USB and I wanted it on the other end where the LED was because I figured it was the least important.

 

[chev327fox]

Very Nice..i really like the looks of this

This may be close as to what you guys are looking for as far as a china supplier.

DealExtreme: $19.99 2200mAh Rechargeable Portable Emergency Power with Phone Adapters

Now...since i cannot solder because of my arthritis in my hands....who can i commission to make me one of these ?

OMG that is the fistpack. I didn't know they took these and just modded them and then sold them for $200... wow.

 

[Parky50]

OMG that is the fistpack. I didn't know they took these and just modded them and then sold them for $200... wow.

yeah... wow indeed.

 

[misterD]

OMG that is the fistpack. I didn't know they took these and just modded them and then sold them for $200... wow.

yeah! but i think in parts only its like 100 bucks (didnt do the math). and its freaking complicated (at least 5 hours of work)...
anyways you did an awesome job, chev.
i was going to ask if theres enough room in there to put a booster and a switch with a whole bunch of resistors to make it multi-voltage! does it?

 

[chev327fox]

yeah! but i think in parts only its like 100 bucks (didnt do the math). and its freaking complicated (at least 5 hours of work)...
anyways you did an awesome job, chev.
i was going to ask if theres enough room in there to put a booster and a switch with a whole bunch of resistors to make it multi-voltage! does it?

Thanks.. but there is not way there is 100 dollars into that thing in parts, lets say the switch cost $5 then the voltage regulator is $10 and the adapter is another $5... that's $40... at most in my eyes.


Oh and I ha ve been using this thing for almost 2 days now and there is no way it is 1.6aps 3.5volts... no way. It is 5.3volts even under load so I don't know about the amps or watts because I don't know how to test that.

I am not sure If SurvivorMcguyvor did something wrong but mine doesn't do what his does. Mine is just as harsh as my Prodigy was. And there is no way 3.5volts can make an atty sizzle like this one does.

 

[misterD]

i think an 18650 batt is included on the package. have you seen his tutorial? i dont know if i can post a link cos its from the "other" forum. heres the parts lists i copied/pasted:
Parts

Fistpack body:
(Blue)
DealExtreme: $19.99 2200mAh Rechargeable Portable Emergency Power with Phone Adapters

(Black)
2200mAh Mobile Power Lithium-ion Battery Phone MP3/MP4 - eBay (item 220402222514 end time Jun-17-10 23:41:16 PDT)

Switch:
Digi-Key - GH1349-ND (Manufacturer - 39-401 BLK)

Switch Cap
Digi-Key - 360-2162-ND (Manufacturer - AT496A)

Slide Switch:
Digi-Key - 679-1874-ND (Manufacturer - SLB1470R)

Capacitors (2 required)
Digi-Key - 495-1529-1-ND (Manufacturer - B45197A2107K409)

Diode
Digi-Key - B280-FDICT-ND (Manufacturer - B280-13-F)

Resistors (10k, 47k, 75k, 150k) - All resistors should be 1/8 watt or better.
Digi-Key - CF1/810KJRCT-ND (Manufacturer - CF 1/8 10K 5% R)
Digi-Key - CF1/847KJRCT-ND (Manufacturer - CF 1/8 47K 5% R)
Digi-Key - CF1/875KJRCT-ND (Manufacturer - CF 1/8 75K 5% R)
Digi-Key - CF1/8150KJRCT-ND (Manufacturer - CF 1/8 150K 5% R)

DC-DC Boost Converter
Digi-Key - 296-20500-ND (Manufacturer - PTN04050CAZ)

Battery
AW IMR18650 1600mAh LiMN rechargeable lithium battery

OR

(if you are comfortable soldering bats you can use these but be aware they are a very tight fit)
AW 18650 Protected 2600 mAh Rechargeable Lithium Battery - New Version

Mosfet
Digi-Key - IRLU3114ZPBF-ND (Manufacturer - IRLU3114ZPBF)

Kapton Tape (useful but not essential, electrical tape will work if that's all you have)
DealExtreme: $2.88 High Temperature Tape (10mm / 300-C)

 

[SurvivorMcGyver]

Thanks!! Yeah it is perfect for me and I think it would be perfect for a lot of people. Yeah it doesn't have the watts as much but it still works good at 5.3volts.

I'm curious, did you wire yours up the same as me? I ask because I honestly do get 5.3volt even under load with the way I wired it right to the USB output but like you said I don't think it quite has the high amount of watts.


Thanks!

I hooked it straight off the USB out. I have a test set up with a couple WU110 V2 One to montitor the power source before any electronics and one Straight to an atty connector. Virtually no decernable resistance through the test device. It gives me (I believe) fairly accurate test results. I also tested the raw battery power at 8.43 volts.

I'll let u know on the regulator -- it won't be soon. I'm tied up in quite a few other projects. If installed I would hook it up right of the batteries or where the wires connect to the board at the botton of the "T". My plan was to eventually put an adjustable unit in there that should give me 7.4 volts at freash charge (Unless I master my PWM board before then - with that I should be able to get max battery down to minimum tolerable vape voltages of 3.6 for use on LR atties.)

Good Luck in your endeavers

 

[chev327fox]

I hooked it straight off the USB out. I have a test set up with a couple WU110 V2 One to montitor the power source before any electronics and one Straight to an atty connector. Virtually no decernable resistance through the test device. It gives me (I believe) fairly accurate test results. I also tested the raw battery power at 8.43 volts.

I'll let u know on the regulator -- it won't be soon. I'm tied up in quite a few other projects. If installed I would hook it up right of the batteries or where the wires connect to the board at the botton of the "T". My plan was to eventually put an adjustable unit in there that should give me 7.4 volts at freash charge (Unless I master my PWM board before then - with that I should be able to get max battery down to minimum tolerable vape voltages of 3.6 for use on LR atties.)

Good Luck in your endeavers

Nice, that would be awesome!!!

All I know is this out off more vapor PG/VG then my Prodigy did and it burns through juice like crazy, even if I flood it it burns it right out and unfloods it.

Good luck to you as well and keep me posted.

 

[chev327fox]

i think an 18650 batt is included on the package. have you seen his tutorial? i dont know if i can post a link cos its from the "other" forum. heres the parts lists i copied/pasted:
Parts
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5101

I see now but i wouldn't make it that way with the booster. Yes I get why they are so expensive now, ,makes sense with all that to make it 5volts with one 3.7 battery. Hey
does that capacitor store energy to help make 5volts or something?

MisterD don't they come with a 18650 in them already?

 

[misterD]

I see now but i wouldn't make it that way with the booster. Yes I get why they are so expensive now, ,makes sense with all that to make it 5volts with one 3.7 battery. Hey
does that capacitor store energy to help make 5volts or something?

MisterD don't they come with a 18650 in them already?

i guess they do. but i think the 200 bucks one comes with an AW (or whatever) plus i heard that Nuck has some personal problems that for now the fistpack is not available for sale. and i think the capacitors are used to keep the booster from overheating. it'd work without it but not too well...
theres this guy that made a tekkeon mod using a regulator and a slide switch. here's what he's getting...
LOADED VOLTAGES (using 510 @ 2.3ohms)
1. 4.26V - 7.89W (LR atty would put out about the same wattage as the 3rd setting - would not go higher than this for a LR atty... is on the high side for it anyways)
2. 4.65V - 9.4W
3. 5.23V - 11.89W (like a fully charged 6V mod)
4. 5.49V - 13.1W (really harsh)
hey, chev! where can i get a tiny one way valve?

 

[chev327fox]

i guess they do. but i think the 200 bucks one comes with an AW (or whatever) plus i heard that Nuck has some personal problems that for now the fistpack is not available for sale. and i think the capacitors are used to keep the booster from overheating. it'd work without it but not too well...
theres this guy that made a tekkeon mod using a regulator and a slide switch. here's what he's getting...
LOADED VOLTAGES (using 510 @ 2.3ohms)
1. 4.26V - 7.89W (LR atty would put out about the same wattage as the 3rd setting - would not go higher than this for a LR atty... is on the high side for it anyways)
2. 4.65V - 9.4W
3. 5.23V - 11.89W (like a fully charged 6V mod)
4. 5.49V - 13.1W (really harsh)
hey, chev! where can i get a tiny one way valve?

Nice... I think the regulator on it work just fine for me but the next one I am going to bypass the circuitry and put one on.

What is the valve for? And what's tiny?

 

[misterD]

small. very small! its for a juicebox project!

 

[markarich159]

i think an 18650 batt is included on the package. have you seen his tutorial? i dont know if i can post a link cos its from the "other" forum. heres the parts lists i copied/pasted:
Parts

Fistpack body:
(Blue)
DealExtreme: $19.99 2200mAh Rechargeable Portable Emergency Power with Phone Adapters

(Black)
2200mAh Mobile Power Lithium-ion Battery Phone MP3/MP4 - eBay (item 220402222514 end time Jun-17-10 23:41:16 PDT)

Switch:
Digi-Key - GH1349-ND (Manufacturer - 39-401 BLK)

Switch Cap
Digi-Key - 360-2162-ND (Manufacturer - AT496A)

Slide Switch:
Digi-Key - 679-1874-ND (Manufacturer - SLB1470R)

Capacitors (2 required)
Digi-Key - 495-1529-1-ND (Manufacturer - B45197A2107K409)

Diode
Digi-Key - B280-FDICT-ND (Manufacturer - B280-13-F)

Resistors (10k, 47k, 75k, 150k) - All resistors should be 1/8 watt or better.
Digi-Key - CF1/810KJRCT-ND (Manufacturer - CF 1/8 10K 5% R)
Digi-Key - CF1/847KJRCT-ND (Manufacturer - CF 1/8 47K 5% R)
Digi-Key - CF1/875KJRCT-ND (Manufacturer - CF 1/8 75K 5% R)
Digi-Key - CF1/8150KJRCT-ND (Manufacturer - CF 1/8 150K 5% R)

DC-DC Boost Converter
Digi-Key - 296-20500-ND (Manufacturer - PTN04050CAZ)

Battery
AW IMR18650 1600mAh LiMN rechargeable lithium battery

OR

(if you are comfortable soldering bats you can use these but be aware they are a very tight fit)
AW 18650 Protected 2600 mAh Rechargeable Lithium Battery - New Version

Mosfet
Digi-Key - IRLU3114ZPBF-ND (Manufacturer - IRLU3114ZPBF)

Kapton Tape (useful but not essential, electrical tape will work if that's all you have)
DealExtreme: $2.88 High Temperature Tape (10mm / 300-C)

I did the math on the total cost of all the components(considering the 1600mAh AW18650 and a quantity of 100 units purchased of each of the smaller parts - which seemed reasonable if your making large quantities of the final product) and came up with a total parts cost of $55.60 per unit. Not quite $100 per unit, however, I'm sure the work that goes into modding the fistpack is extensive and time consuming. I was thinking of purchasing one of these when I saw it on the "other" forum, as it's getting a lot of good reviews. $200 is quite an investment, however, and I haven't heard any long term durability info as of yet. Seems to me that a large number of electrical components(that can fail) along with the base unit being a relatively inexpensive Chinese powerpack, may lead to durability issues; but this is just a guess. Has anyone heard anything along these lines????

 

[WillyB]

I did the math on the total cost of all the components(considering the 1600mAh AW18650 and a quantity of 100 units purchased of each of the smaller parts - which seemed reasonable if your making large quantities of the final product) and came up with a total parts cost of $55.60 per unit. Not quite $100 per unit, however, I'm sure the work that goes into modding the fistpack is extensive and time consuming. I was thinking of purchasing one of these when I saw it on the "other" forum, as it's getting a lot of good reviews. $200 is quite an investment, however, and I haven't heard any long term durability info as of yet. Seems to me that a large number of electrical components(that can fail) along with the base unit being a relatively inexpensive Chinese powerpack, may lead to durability issues; but this is just a guess. Has anyone heard anything along these lines????

Don't assume that this is something Nuck just built and put up for sale. You are basically looking at a V3 version of a mod that has been used by many experienced vapers used to using high end mods. Folks who understand and have experience with what's available and how these devices should work. Also many have been able to build one using his exemplary guide. This is an extremely well tested rig, not something slapped together yesterday. As far as I can tell he is using Tenergy Li-Ions, not AW. Again he has specific reasons for using the Tenergy's, it's not a cost cutting move.

He has tried and changed many of the components you see, finally settling on the best available, not based solely on manufacturer spec sheets but real world use. This is not a mod made with whatever MadVapes has in stock.

 

[misterD]

why use a mosfet when he could use a higher Amp switch? i dont think its a size thing... and why he says its not ok to use LRattys with his FP even at 4.3V? a fresh charged batt has 4.2V, right?