The Poldiac Fan Club

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B2L

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I've not had to use Noalox on any of my other Poldiacs, but I have tried it on this one, to no avail. I really don't know what to do with this thing, but perhaps send it back asking for a refund. I've written VaporAuthority about it.

Probably a dumb question but have you tried more than one atty on it, or tried the atty on another mod? The nice thing about mechs is as long as there is conductivity, there's vape. Your conductivity is being interrupted at some point. (I know you know this, just thinking out loud).

The only options are positive pin to small screw, small screw to lg screw, screw to firing pin, back through the bottom set of contact screws, spring to bottom cap, bottom cap to battery tube, battery tube to switch housing, switch housing to top cap, top cap to 510 threading. The issue has to be either one, or more, of those contact points or the battery or atty.

I used to noalox each of the above contact surfaces (very lightly) each time I cleaned the switch. The spring, where it sits into the bottom cap, can cause an issue if it isn't seated well.
 

The.Drifter

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Had a little extrta time today at the shop, so I decided to make some custom drip tips for my OverOne :)

Made them so they press fit snuggly.
9jip8akcrqoqkln6g.jpg


Thru hole matches the bore in the OverOne.
fgr1ptol0i84he26g.jpg


Shot of it on the OverOne :D
k72sy0bhfqd7eri6g.jpg


Gonna make a few out of Brass and Steel to match my Poldiacs next :D
 

Portertown

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I have a small O ring under that top pole screw to keep it where I want it, and it's definitely making contact because the atty doesn't screw all the way down. I've noticed, though, that I have to push that button down pretty hard to get it to fire at all, and on the top edge of the button as well. Pretty disappointed in this device...

Sounds like the contact rod is not making contact with the top pole screw if you have to push hard on the top edge of the button. With the contact rod being a snug fit in the button and the pole screws screwed fully down tight there is no movement for the contact rod to make contact with the two pole screws. Also remember the push button is a tight fit in the switch housing, but will loosen up some with use. I have seen some Poldiacs when new that required the pole screws to be only "snug", not screwed down overly tight with a screw driver.
Try screwing down the pole screws only finger tight and see if the switch works better. This may let the contact points in the switch assembly make full contact. If this helps with the problem, then you can slightly tighten the pole screws a little at a time until the problem returns and them untighten them just a little.
The push button part will loosen up in the housing bore with use and then the pole screws can be tighten more fully. The peek switch parts are stiffer than the black delrin parts and do not "flex" as much.
The serial number looks good to me, as one of my Poldiacs has serial number 3866 and it was purchased about 18 months ago from MMV direct.
 
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Vaslovik

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Probably a dumb question but have you tried more than one atty on it, or tried the atty on another mod? The nice thing about mechs is as long as there is conductivity, there's vape. Your conductivity is being interrupted at some point. (I know you know this, just thinking out loud).

The only options are positive pin to small screw, small screw to lg screw, screw to firing pin, back through the bottom set of contact screws, spring to bottom cap, bottom cap to battery tube, battery tube to switch housing, switch housing to top cap, top cap to 510 threading. The issue has to be either one, or more, of those contact points or the battery or atty.

I used to noalox each of the above contact surfaces (very lightly) each time I cleaned the switch. The spring, where it sits into the bottom cap, can cause an issue if it isn't seated well.

Yes, I've tried other attys on it, both of my Krakens and my other DID, with no luck. It''s clearly not the atty, it's the mech.
 
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Vaslovik

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Sounds like the contact rod is not making contact with the top pole screw if you have to push hard on the top edge of the button. With the contact rod being a snug fit in the button and the pole screws screwed fully down tight there is no movement for the contact rod to make contact with the two pole screws. Also remember the push button is a tight fit in the switch housing, but will loosen up some with use. I have seen some Poldiacs when new that required the pole screws to be only "snug", not screwed down overly tight with a screw driver.
Try screwing down the pole screws only finger tight and see if the switch works better. This may let the contact points in the switch assembly make full contact. If this helps with the problem, then you can slightly tighten the pole screws a little at a time until the problem returns and them untighten them just a little.
The push button part will loosen up in the housing bore with use and then the pole screws can be tighten more fully. The peek switch parts are stiffer than the black delrin parts and do not "flex" as much.
The serial number looks good to me, as one of my Poldiacs has serial number 3866 and it was purchased about 18 months ago from MMV direct.

I have indeed tried all this, and still it will not work right. Thanks for confirming the serial number. Miriam tells me it's a genuine Poldiac, and if I like I can send it to them for repair, but that would likely cost what I paid for it by the time I was all done with it. I'm not of a mind to return it, it's got parts that I might need and can't get anymore.
 
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Vaslovik

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Probably a dumb question but have you tried more than one atty on it, or tried the atty on another mod? The nice thing about mechs is as long as there is conductivity, there's vape. Your conductivity is being interrupted at some point. (I know you know this, just thinking out loud).

Well, I just transplanted the button parts from my Freddy Classic into the Miriam, and it's now working just fine. No voltage drop, fires good and strong. The one thing I'm suspicious of is that Peek Ketron part. Everything else is the same as my other Poldis, so I'm going to put that into the Freddy Classic and test it. At present I'm having trouble getting the magnet to stay in the Peek part, every time I try to put the button back in it snatches that magnet out of there, even if it's on the right side. Bother!
 

Vaslovik

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Use a magnet on the outside of the button hosing to hold the magnet inside in place while you remove/replace the button.

Wow... why didn't I think of that? Well anyway, having swapped internal button parts between the Freddy and the Miriam I find the Miriam is now firing good and strong, and now it's the Freddy having the issues. I am focused on that Peek Ketron part as the root of the issue. I'd replace it with a delrin part if I could get one, but I can't. Oh well, at least I got parts with the latest Poldi.
 

Vaslovik

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Don't know if it's possible, but you can get all kinds of wraps here. Black Carbon Fiber

Well it's billed as a "texture" and is a wrap. I'd be wanting carbon fiber replacements for the shirt and pants, so that won't do. They do not even say it's real carbon fiber, just a "texture".
 
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Vaslovik

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Hey guys, I always wanted one of these but been out of the game for awhile.

What do these go for used now a days?

The last one I got was from Vapor Authority and it cost me $139.99. It was a Poldiac Miriam WTH. I think they might still have a couple Poldis there, you can always check.

Poldiac

MMV stopped making them and put what they had on sale, which is when I got in on it, buying 3 of them and a raft of parts as fasts as I could, then the 4th from Vapor Authority. I've never had a better mech than my Poldiacs. I don't expect I ever will. If you can find one and get it you will not be sorry.
 
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Vaslovik

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Good luck finding anyone who will trade an authentic Poldiac for anything. I know I wouldn't.... Okay, maybe for a 7 series BMW...

I'm looking for my 5th Poldiac now, and I'm not having any luck finding one I don't already have. When I got my Poldiacs on sale from MMV they were incredibly priced, 70 Euros for my Uma Classic. That was about $82. Back in the day Poldiacs went for $260 new, and they were worth it too!

There's always the Poordiac, the clone, but I wouldn't go there if I were you. If you want a Poldiac get the real thing, and don't spend good money for a disappointment.

Thing is... Poldiacs are getting real rare, and are becoming collector's items pretty quick. Prices will of course rise.
 

oplholik

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Hey guys, I always wanted one of these but been out of the game for awhile.

What do these go for used now a days?
Don't see many come up on ecf. You might give The Vapor Lounge in Rancho Cucamonga a call. The last time I was in there they still had some in the case on sale, and some used ones on consignment. You might be able to make a deal with them. Might be worth a try.
The Vapour Lounge Store
 
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Vaslovik

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Don't see many come up on ecf. You might give The Vapor Lounge in Rancho Cucamonga a call. The last time I was in there they still had some in the case on sale, and some used ones on consignment. You might be able to make a deal with them. Might be worth a try.
The Vapour Lounge Store

Dude! I am SO ON IT!!!
 

Vaslovik

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I just got off the phone with them, and they say they have a California edition, which to my eye looks pretty much like a Miriam WTH, which I already have. They want $120 for it, and that's a deal. I just want an Aname Classic really bad, and I can't find one anywhere. Vapor Lounge has them on their page, and an Uma Classic, but they don't have those. All they have is the California Edition, and I asked about what they had on consignment too.

This is the first time I've called them, my job pretty much dominates my life with 18-22 hour shifts.

Oh, and BTW, I did manage to get that latest Poldi working perfectly. Break-in period I guess. Swapping parts might have helped too. I now have 4 perfectly working Poldiacs with anthentic DID's and Krakens on them. I'm a happy camper :D
 
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