Keep thinking that and dont use one... I have been using mine on a USB passthrough for 4 months (Daily) and with a 18350 battery and no failure. Oh sure it will eventually but in the mean time it works like a champ.
Dan
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Keep thinking that and dont use one... I have been using mine on a USB passthrough for 4 months (Daily) and with a 18350 battery and no failure. Oh sure it will eventually but in the mean time it works like a champ.
Dan
There's plenty of examples to support my point - was there a specific reason for the ritualistic ****-measuring, or did I just catch you at a bad moment?
FFS, I never said it was going to instantly vaporize and punch a hole into an alternate dimension...calm down.
Not excited and very calm, I just meant if you believe that then you don’t have to use them. I have used mini tactile switches from VCR's and the 50ma tactile switches from RS with no failures and have made about 50 mods with them. Not one failure. I am sure that some brands may be substandard and fail immediately, but the ones I listed from RS have worked fine. Not flamming
, and no you did not catch me at a bad time8-o, and not it is not ritualistic ****-measuring (what ever that means) 
.If you have used them and they failed say so, otherwise vague generalizations do not say what brand or seller not to use. That is more helpful indicating which 50ma switch you have used that failed verse saying the little 50ma switches have a hard time standing up to 30-40 times their design amperage impily they all wont work. Cause the ones I am using are holding up just fine IMO. If you do have plenty of examples that will not hold up I would love to know about them so I can avoid them.
Not trying to be a smarta$$ and not trying to jump on anyone, I just think it is more constructive to provide examples to people, and if there is something that is a known failed attempt, inform people by make model or part number. Its just more productive and people do not have to interpret what you are attempting to convey and we can avoid misunderstandings.
I apologies if it seemed I was jumping on you unceremoniously, that was not my intent. Just that you seemed to believe all 50ma switches will not hold up under the load, and I have not had that problem, as others here are using the same switch and not reported any failures I am aware of.
And FFS, I never said you said it was going to instantly vaporize and punch a hole into an alternate dimension or imply that she said what he said that I obviously dint say what I think you said.
Peace out
Dan
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I've seen several references by Nuck, Cisco, Nicowolf and others.
There's a *reason* for all the "will this switch work" threads.
Seems like you're saying that only your experience is valid.
There's a *reason* for all the "will this switch work" threads.
Seems like you're saying that only your experience is valid.
Quite the contrary, if you have threads that point out the switches that do not work, then please share.
Since searching in this vast sea of post is sometimes difficult, if you have them at your finger tips please by all means share.
Dan
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/43313-box-mod-problem.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/39557-soldering-sot23s-fun.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/29920-tactile-switch-questions.html
Nicowolf mentions it in the nicostick threads, Nerf mentions it fairly often, Cisco mentions it (maybe that's on the other board)....
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/39557-soldering-sot23s-fun.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/29920-tactile-switch-questions.html
Nicowolf mentions it in the nicostick threads, Nerf mentions it fairly often, Cisco mentions it (maybe that's on the other board)....
Nerf: This has happened to me quite a few times on the first passthroughs I made with cheap switches, and replacing the switch will indeed fix your problem.
Nerf: The vast majority of us use switches that are grossly underrated for what we're doing. A 50mA tact switch *will* start to degrade over time and finally stop working if you're pushing 1500mA through it.
500KV: The RS switches are fine if you use one that has a sufficient current rating (ie. 1.5 to 3 amp).
The problems occur when folks use 50Ma rated switches on a device that draws 1500 to 2000 Ma
Warp1900: I usually super glue them and i blame some little amount of liquid running in the case itself for the failure, but i can't really be sure about it.
My point is, i don't really think that all the Ma. talk about them is true, since i have several working switches on my mods. Maybe the theory says they should fail, but in practice they do work.
Cisco: Almost all tact switches have a max rating of 50mA. Then how are we putting 1+ amps through them and they work? The switches are being used in burst mod. Your putting all that amperage through the switch in very short intervals. If you ran that much amperage through them continuously they would fail very quickly. Will they last forever? NO, but you will get a pretty reasonable length of time out of them. All my mods use them and some are 3 months old and they all still work. The rat shack switches are cheap and they made cheap so your taking a chance on getting a bad one. The switches inside regular manual batteries don't have the current running through them they only activate the circuit, the power to the atty runs through an IC controlled driver/relay circuit so they will last forever unless there is a mechanical failure.
Yes I have read most of this and the 50ma switchs I am using from RS are still working after 4 months of daily use. Everyone is drawing from their own experiance as am I. If I could find a micro tactle switch that was rated at 1.5-3ma that would fit, then I would use it. But in the mean time I have made the RCA adapter like nick76 did only soldering mine to circuit board, so if it does fail I simply unscrew it and put another one in. I appreciate you dedication to informing people and posting the links to where it can be found. People can make their own mind up given the information you and I have posted. Thank you for the information.
Dan
I think the best solution (as mentioned in the MOSFET threads) is to use those RS tact or .5A momentary switches to trigger a MOSFET. That way, the low-current switch isn't having to do the 'heavy lifting' of supplying the total current the atomizer draws.
For those that don't care to do the extra wiring/soldering that requires, RS *does* make 1.5 amp and 3 amp mini switches. (Note: I do not know if the 1.5 amp switches are normally open or not)
For those that don't care to do the extra wiring/soldering that requires, RS *does* make 1.5 amp and 3 amp mini switches. (Note: I do not know if the 1.5 amp switches are normally open or not)
LOL... no? really?..... I dont think these:
3 ampWill fit inside of this:
Hence the reason we are using this:
Find us one in this size that is 1.5-3a and we are golden, I can find ovesized 1.5-3a switches all day long, but not .37" x .25" tact switches in the desired rating.
I agree though a using these to trigger a MOSFET would be best, but we are limited on space inside of the RCA connector.
Thanks Again,
Dan
Ah, now I see the reason for the original post...I wasn't speaking to your 'switch in the barrel' solution - I was talking about the use of the lightweight switch in general.
No problem, but hey if you can find a .37"x.25" 1.5a-3a tact switch we could use one!!! I have been searching all over for one but to no avail. That is why we are stuck with the 50ma crappy switch
Sorry if it seemed I was jumpin on you, I just got frustrated trying to explain.
Dan
No problem, Dan - I couldn't figure out why the heck you were all over me for something that'd been said in so many threads...
I wonder if it'd be possible to cobble in a MOSFET to your "switch in barrel" solution? God knows they're small enough. Pull power for source from the battery side of the switch, gate from the other side of the switch and use the drain lead for the atomizer side "wire wrap"...
I wonder if it'd be possible to cobble in a MOSFET to your "switch in barrel" solution? God knows they're small enough. Pull power for source from the battery side of the switch, gate from the other side of the switch and use the drain lead for the atomizer side "wire wrap"...
I am so confused. I'm generally not a thickie when it comes to "techie" stuff. Maybe it's just age taking it's toll but I'm still not getting much. Will have to sleep on things and re-read this thread a few more times before I start bombarding it with questions. This just to say 
to those of you who come up with these brilliant ideas and share them!
This just to say to those of you who come up with these brilliant ideas and share them!
grr.. my standard 801 passthrough is going bad: only works now if i've got it pointed at the ground, which i guess means the connection where the line feeds in thru the LED cap is going bad (?). anyhow, since i've already got RCA connectors/switches made for my mini-mag lite mods, i was hoping someone here could be kind enough to explain to me (or just redirect me if it's already posted here somewhere and i've just missed it) how to put together one of the USB to RCA passthroughs i've seen pics of in this thread.
any info is appreciated, and as always: all the best.
to clarify, what i need help with is connecting the usb cable to the rca phono plug.. i know that the white and green wires in the usb bundle are for data transfer and am guessing i don't need to fuss with them, but i can't decide if the red and black are positive and negative or power and ground.. or how to go about actually connecting them to the phono plug. i saw what looks like speaker wire in Warp's pics, but am too much of a techno-tard to understand how it all goes together.
kk.. brain just clicked: if checking an atty with a multimeter involves connecting the pos lead to the center post and neg lead to the outer ring, then i should connect the red/positive wire to the center arm of the phono plug and the black/negative to the longer/outer ring arm, right? d'uh.. giving it a shot.. /cross fingers
any info is appreciated, and as always: all the best.
to clarify, what i need help with is connecting the usb cable to the rca phono plug.. i know that the white and green wires in the usb bundle are for data transfer and am guessing i don't need to fuss with them, but i can't decide if the red and black are positive and negative or power and ground.. or how to go about actually connecting them to the phono plug. i saw what looks like speaker wire in Warp's pics, but am too much of a techno-tard to understand how it all goes together.
kk.. brain just clicked: if checking an atty with a multimeter involves connecting the pos lead to the center post and neg lead to the outer ring, then i should connect the red/positive wire to the center arm of the phono plug and the black/negative to the longer/outer ring arm, right? d'uh.. giving it a shot.. /cross fingers
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Green and White are not needed, cut em and throw them away. Black (neg) goes to ground on the RCA, red (pos) goes to one side of the switch, the other side continues to the center pole of the RCA jack. That is pretty much it.
Hope that helps.
Dan
not entirely sure i follow you, Dan, sorry. sounds to me like you're talking about the switch in the y-adapter box? that part i'm good on.. i'm talking about the "USB to RCA" rig in the top pic of post #8 in this thread. if i'm just being dense and missing the point, though, please tell me. thanks.
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That's easy, red to the center post connector for the RCA jack and black to the ground/outer post.
really glad to hear you say that since that's what i ended up doing ;b woot!
thanks guys, all the best.
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Whoops sorry thought you were talking about the connector in the box... Opus is right, for the USB it is black to outside (Ground) of the RCA and red goes to Center.
Dan
No worries, sir, it worked itself.. magnificently at that, heh. I *love* the vapor I'm getting out of this thing. Think I may need a portable 5V mod now.. lol. Once you start, it never ends, does it?
Thanks again, everyone, especially Warp & Dan.. couldn't have made any of these wonderful devices w/out your ingenuity & info. All the best.
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