The "RBA's for Dummies" Thread

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Gioajack

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Can anyone tell me how the insulator on the era/hornet might burn? How do I keep this from happening? Also how to keep from burning the gasket on the REO?

If you run a low ohm coil and place it too close to the insulator it will start to melt and work it's way up. The insulator is much longer than what it appears... it's the length of the bottom half of the positive post. The chance of a short is pretty minimal but the insulator will creep up high enough to interfere with the juice feed hole in the positive post.

Keep a little distance between the coil and insulator and you won't have any problems. Replacing the insulator is no big deal... trying to get one is.


Jack
 

FeistyAlice

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Can anyone tell me how the insulator on the era/hornet might burn? How do I keep this from happening? Also how to keep from burning the gasket on the REO?

Well, first, I've had REOs, all editions, since 2010 AND I'VE NEVER BURNT A REO GASKET.

Easy to burn or melt a positive post insulator on those RBAs that have posts going through a metal base and needing to keep positive current isolated from the metal that is negative, most usually by torching the coil/wick while attached to posts. (Reomizer 2.0 posts go through a ceramic base. I haven't had time to look closely at mine let alone play with them so I can't advise on that at this time.) A lot of us were torching our ERAs, to clean coil and silica wick, when they first came out. Our Jack melted at least one. I had one insulator bubble up a bit but it stayed functional and didn't melt enough to cause a short.

I NO LONGER TORCH ANY COIL/WICK WHILE ON AN rba THAT HAS A SOFT INSULATOR FOR POSITIVE POST.

There are possibly other ways to melt the insulator but I'll let others discuss that. I think this is the major weak point of the posts RBAs that use soft positive insulstor, no matter the quality of rba, but no RBA is without "weak points."

Evidently it has occurred enough with the ERA and Hornets, high end RBAs, that the parts and instructional video and discussions are available.

Sorry I can't give links. I'm doing a job and have my notebook in use setting up a network.

Feisty Alice

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boilednuts

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When exposing your coils to a flame yes, if mounted and using batt to heat up your coil would be a dry burn but in the end its the same deal. Basically heating the wire to get red hot. You could go 6-8 times but I do it 3 times and its good. If the coil has been used, trying to get any gunk off the wire is the idea. Let cool then rewick.
Peeps also use torching when exposing the atty's cover to high temps to extract a more appealing color too.
 

FeistyAlice

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When exposing your coils to a flame yes, if mounted and using batt to heat up your coil would be a dry burn but in the end its the same deal. Basically heating the wire to get red hot. You could go 6-8 times but I do it 3 times and its good. If the coil has been used, trying to get any gunk off the wire is the idea. Let cool then rewick.
Peeps also use torching when exposing the atty's cover to high temps to extract a more appealing color too.

The most commonly used torch is a chef's torch. Don't let its small size fool ya. You can adjust it up in the high 100s F. For those of us using silica, SS, ceramic wicks it is a very fast way to clean and degunk coil and wick. After partially melting the positive post insulator I no longer torch wick/coi attached to posts style RBAs. Another risk is melting o-rings on fitted cap style. Only wick/coil I torch mounted is the Greek and Italian ceramic cup RBAs but you still have to be careful.


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FeistyAlice

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Ok, thanks. No, I don't take a torch to my RBA's. I might be wierd but I like the look of clean Stainless or Polished Nickle. I'll probably rub the Nickle Plating off long before I'd ever 'torch' a RBA, but That's just me....

Torching wick/coil is totally different from torching outer surfaces for asthetics. Many of us quite like other than shiny silver RBAs, attys, cartos on some of our mods. I have never liked the look of silver colored metals on WOOD REOS with brass catchcups. Back in 2010 I was putting wraps on metal attys for Wood REOS.

As Dan says, some of us are afflcted with "matchy matchy."

Feisty Alice

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Commie

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flylane1102

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Thanks Commie. That is good info right there. Will be placing a order for one shortly. The only thing is I am afraid of this happening again. This wasnt the first time ive set my mod down without locking the switch and i am sure it wont be the last.:oops: I dont want to buy a new attie every time this happens. I would rather just buy a few extra insulators to keep on hand. Any help on where to find just insulators is appriciated.
 

Justice

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Thanks Commie. That is good info right there. Will be placing a order for one shortly. The only thing is I am afraid of this happening again. This wasnt the first time ive set my mod down without locking the switch and i am sure it wont be the last.:oops: I dont want to buy a new attie every time this happens. I would rather just buy a few extra insulators to keep on hand. Any help on where to find just insulators is appriciated.

If it goes off that easily, you may want to adjust your positive contact, to make your button's throw longer

What kind of mod are we talking about here ?
 
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