"The Russian" 91% (Kayfun Lite Clone With A Twist)

[ronpaek100]

The drip tip adapter is too small on my R91 v1 and v2 - I've shredded o-rings on my LokiLab drip tips. I also had to use sandpaper on the outside of my v2's 510 threads to get it to fit on many of my mods (perhaps that was my post in the CoOp you saw).

Nonetheless, I would order more R91s - I use the adjustable 510 center pin every day and my R91s are more versatile than my KFL+.

I see.. is there anyway to smooth out the drip tip adapter so it doesn't shred the o-rings?

And as far as using sandpaper did you manually do it, what grit paper did you use?

Also is it me or do the insulators in the Russian seem a lot thinner and cheaper than the ones in the KFL+?

 

[Firestorm]

I see.. is there anyway to smooth out the drip tip adapter so it doesn't shred the o-rings?

And as far as using sandpaper did you manually do it, what grit paper did you use?

Also is it me or do the insulators in the Russian seem a lot thinner and cheaper than the ones in the KFL+?

I suppose one could try to bore out the drip tip well with a Dremel. I'm not willing to do this just yet.

I used 600 grit sandpaper and just sanded around the outside of the 510 threads a bit.

 

[Rymarski]

Anyone have experience with using the kayfun m-tank on the russian 91? Just picked up a russian and also got an m-tank for a clearer window section.

Also, these new nano-tank kits, would they also work on the russian 91?

 

[nelsonm64]

Anyone have experience with using the kayfun m-tank on the russian 91? Just picked up a russian and also got an m-tank for a clearer window section.

Also, these new nano-tank kits, would they also work on the russian 91?

yes, the k-nano kits will work on a 91%

 

[Rymarski]

yes, the k-nano kits will work on a 91%

Good to hear. After reading so much between the two, seems like the russian is the way to go. Price wise there the same, but the russian seems to be a better option. Will probably pick up a kayfun to compare each of them.

Seems like most of you guys are happy with the russian 91.

 

[HandbananA]

Still getting burnt hits
Wondering if my juice channels are wide/deep enough. They look really small.


Tapatalk

 

[nelsonm64]

Still getting burnt hits
Wondering if my juice channels are wide/deep enough. They look really small.


Tapatalk

what type of wick/coil setup do you use? wick choked? not positioned correctly? the juice channels are fine, its more than likely your coiling or wicking method we'll get ur sorted

 

[ronpaek100]

yes, the k-nano kits will work on a 91%

they would work but they aren't going to be the same finish

 

[HandbananA]

what type of wick/coil setup do you use? wick choked? not positioned correctly? the juice channels are fine, its more than likely your coiling or wicking method we'll get ur sorted

Single strand 3mm ekowool - 30g Kanthal - 1.4 ohms
Tried the wick in 3 different positions.
1. Set on top across screw heads
2. Diagonally close to airhole
3. Diagonally farther from airhole

Wick was put across the bottom of well and put to not cover the juice hole.


Tapatalk

 

[Bmays]

Single strand 3mm ekowool - 30g Kanthal - 1.4 ohms
Tried the wick in 3 different positions.
1. Set on top across screw heads
2. Diagonally close to airhole
3. Diagonally farther from airhole

Wick was put across the bottom of well and put to not cover the juice hole.


Tapatalk

I'm getting a few dry hits on mine too. I can primer puff if and it's fine for a while. I'm sure mine is my build though, this was my first build with crappy silica. Will be using either xc116 or ekowool next.

However, the dang thing makes me cough like I just started smoking. Not sure what's up there, I'm assuming I'm use to the more open air flows of my Genesis attys.

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2

 

[maf2k8]

I owned a Russian 91 v1 before and it honestly was just as good if not better then my KFL. I ( like a ..... ) sold it because the finish on it didn't go well with any of my mods. Well since then i have a black Hana and decided the a R91 would be the best thing for it. Without knowing that there was a v2 out, I ordered one, got it and was really not happy with it.

The insulators seems really cheap and thin. If i tightened the screw to hold down the positive assembly to tight, the insulator would smash or the positive assembly itself would turn, I tired so many different attempts at trying to tighten it down without either of these 2 things happening and nothing worked.

Then the edged of the parts were super sharp and the oring by the chimney was getting torn and cut up because of how sharp the parts were and because the oring wasn't recessed right or something.

Honestly after fighting with those 2 issues i began to think, Why am i bothering with these problems if a KFL+ is only 6-8 dollars more?

I honetly do not use the air control BUT i figure i would be a nice touch. I honestly was more interested in the finish this time around because it would of paired well with my black Hana.

I am not sure if ALL the R91's are like this now with these issues but if they are? Then i don't see why anyone wouldn't just pay 6-8 dollars more and just get a KFL+?

Are these problems with ALL R91s that are out now? I am wanting to buy another one but i keep trying to hunt down a used v1 since they seemed much better then these new ones?

 

[ronpaek100]

I owned a Russian 91 v1 before and it honestly was just as good if not better then my KFL. I ( like a ..... ) sold it because the finish on it didn't go well with any of my mods. Well since then i have a black Hana and decided the a R91 would be the best thing for it. Without knowing that there was a v2 out, I ordered one, got it and was really not happy with it.

The insulators seems really cheap and thin. If i tightened the screw to hold down the positive assembly to tight, the insulator would smash or the positive assembly itself would turn, I tired so many different attempts at trying to tighten it down without either of these 2 things happening and nothing worked.

Then the edged of the parts were super sharp and the oring by the chimney was getting torn and cut up because of how sharp the parts were and because the oring wasn't recessed right or something.

Honestly after fighting with those 2 issues i began to think, Why am i bothering with these problems if a KFL+ is only 6-8 dollars more?

I honetly do not use the air control BUT i figure i would be a nice touch. I honestly was more interested in the finish this time around because it would of paired well with my black Hana.

I am not sure if ALL the R91's are like this now with these issues but if they are? Then i don't see why anyone wouldn't just pay 6-8 dollars more and just get a KFL+?

Are these problems with ALL R91s that are out now? I am wanting to buy another one but i keep trying to hunt down a used v1 since they seemed much better then these new ones?

Wow.. we both had like pretty much the same issues! I never had the v1 but the v2 wouldn't thread onto my WAE and the insulator seems thinner and cheaper than the KFL+ and the threading, o-rings and the drip tip adapter just don't work right.

The only good thing I liked about the Russian 91% upon testing was the AFC it's better than the KFL+ not because of where it's placed but because I purchased 3 KFL+ and 2 of them make a whistling sound and 1 works perfectly. The Russian wasn't making a whistling sound, but then again the KFL+ doesn't leak anymore and the Russian will probably still leak from the threads like the old KFL did.

Maybe you'll get lucky and get a whistle free KFL+

 

[maf2k8]

oh yeah and not to mention that the R91 v2 didn't thread onto the device that i actually bought it for! Though it did thread onto everything else ( but the finishes didn't look good when paired up )

So yeah.. I am a bit iffy about buying another one.

 

[nelsonm64]

they would work but they aren't going to be the same finish

you are right. however, I polished mine with a scotch brite pad so they do match

 

[nelsonm64]

Single strand 3mm ekowool - 30g Kanthal - 1.4 ohms
Tried the wick in 3 different positions.
1. Set on top across screw heads
2. Diagonally close to airhole
3. Diagonally farther from airhole

Wick was put across the bottom of well and put to not cover the juice hole.


Tapatalk

it all sounds good to me. have you tried cotton? wicks 100x better than silica. or if you want to stick with silica I suggest using a looser type like german silica. it wicks a lot better (kinda pricey though) personally I have all my kayfun devices running on micro coils with cotton. much better than any silica build I ever had

 

[CaliVaper]

does anyone make a clear GLASS tank/tube for the Russian 91%? I've seen the plastic/acrylic ones, but I'm talking about actuall glass, preferably pyrex, and preferably the whole tank, not just the window/middle section.

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to use a porous ceramic wick with the Russian 91%?

 

[nelsonm64]

does anyone make a clear GLASS tank/tube for the Russian 91%? I've seen the plastic/acrylic ones, but I'm talking about actuall glass, preferably pyrex, and preferably the whole tank, not just the window/middle section.

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to use a porous ceramic wick with the Russian 91%?

they don't exist because of the threading of the glass that would be required.

 

[gando_salo]

Any good deals on this lately. Been hard to find these in stock and if they are they come up to about $100++.

I have a clone kayfun by tobeco and am super happy with it but want to step it up a bit.

any suggestions???

 

[sandt38]

Any good deals on this lately. Been hard to find these in stock and if they are they come up to about $100++.

I have a clone kayfun by tobeco and am super happy with it but want to step it up a bit.

any suggestions???

Vaporkings has them in stock. Mine will be here today.

 

[sandt38]

Just a question about the center pin contact on the 91%:

I read this entire thread and saw several concerns about voltage drop. I plan on sticking the extra O-ring in the pin to keep it stable. But with regards to voltage drop across the pin... is it safe to use a chemical that I would not want to ingest on the pin? It seems as if all the airflow is through the hole on the side of the unit, opposed to the bottom feed through the pin I see on all my cartos, clearos, and glassos. I want to use some Stabilant 22 on the threads to promote electron transfer and eliminate voltage drop. I use it in many high speed communication connections at work when I see impedance issues that affect CAN BUS line communications at connectors, and it works exceptionally well. But it is poisonous if ingested. I just want to be sure that I will not be vaping the Stabilant.

Just a couple hours and counting until I get my R91 in my hands. I am excited about giving my first rebuildable a try... and a really nice RBA at that.