The Wizard - Why not?

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nicotime

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Hows the hangover Charged? I was pretty sure you would be back on after about 5 minutes last night :lol: :lol: I was playing around with that regulator last night (which will only put out 1 volt by the way) and was pondering what I was doing wrong and I got so sleepy I came precariously close to taking a hit off of my soldering iron. 8-o I think I even burnt some nose hairs it was that close. Went to bed and left my meter on all night...and I didn't have anything to drink.

But any hootchy..I wonder if the parts from the smaller wiz could be adapted to like a JB configuration? I think your right about the appearance aspect of it, as it does look like a .....
 

Charged

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Glad you saved your face nico. Cobwebs are gone now, I gotta be more careful, not use to that Captain Morgan stuff :cry:.

What's your input voltage on that switching regulator? You know you can't run that thing on less than 4.5V input. Did you connect 100uf capacitors across the input and output? These things are pretty hefty and can pump some good current.
 

nicotime

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Its got 6.1v from a wall wart and I scavenged 1 cap off of some junk board and put it at vo and gnd. Caps dont have a + and - do they? I have to go get some more caps. But it gives me .5 v constantly until I take the inhibit wire and gnd it for 1v.

Edit...ok I found another 100uf cap and put it at vi and gnd...same thing, 1.3v out.
How do you test a cap?
 
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Charged

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Yes, when you get to the larger values that you need to make that thing work they will have + and -. If you hook them up backwards they will short out. You need at least 100uf across the input and output for it to switch properly. You should not need to ground that inhibit (pin 1). Grounding it turns the switcher off, leaving it not connected should be OK. What value resistor do you have connected between VO adjust (pin 5) and ground? Did you measure it with your ohm meter?
 
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nicotime

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Didnt connect 5...I dont see a marking on the caps for +-.

Ok if that white strip on the cap is -...oppsy I had one turned wrong..I probably burnt everything up by now. I buy some new ones today. Good thing the reg was a freeby.

Ha...I have a whole bunch of 450v 470uF(M) caps here...will they work?
 
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Scubabatdan

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Ok was playing around and here is my first attempt, I made the heating element (3.8 ohms) 36ga, and inserted into a 4mm glass tube. One drop when heated and LOTS of vapor. Now I need to make the outer shell to push the jucie through to make contact.
Here are some pics.
Dan
 

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Charged

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Ok was playing around and here is my first attempt, I made the heating element (3.8 ohms) 36ga, and inserted into a 4mm glass tube. One drop when heated and LOTS of vapor. Now I need to make the outer shell to push the jucie through to make contact.
Here are some pics.
Dan

Sweet, nice job Scuba, nico isn't that similar to what you were trying with the coil winding around the wicking glass fibers?

I've got to get some closeup pics of the coil in this wizard you will be very suprised at what you see.
 

Scubabatdan

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Sweet, nice job Scuba, nico isn't that similar to what you were trying with the coil winding around the wicking glass fibers?

I've got to get some closeup pics of the coil in this wizard you will be very suprised at what you see.

I aready tore a wizard stick apart, seems to be a mile of that nichome wire in there, and VERY thin and long.
But would love to see the pics.
Just need to find me some SS tubing that I can bore out on my lathe and the make it close tolerance to the 4mm glass tube and pump juice in from the side like my drawings. Might have a working prototype soon :)
Interesting enough the glass does not get hot 3/4" away from the heating coil. BTW I used the J hook method when soldering the nichrome to the wire I used. Two J's hooked together then crimped and soldered. They make good contact and wont pull apart. Currently I am working with a glass tube that is 1 /1/2" long.
Dan
 
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nicotime

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So I take it your mail lady figured out which house to deliver that super-secret package to? :D


Yes she did...unfortunately I was at Rat Shack and didn't get to see the look on her face.

You need to PM me what kind of juice you use or something man...I appreciate it. Bar none the best package I ever got...and that was before I opened it!!

Oh yeah...Damn these things are tiny!

Gotta get in car pool line for the kids so I'll play later.
 

Scubabatdan

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That's pretty impressive Dan, you're one fast doer. Yes that is a very long tight diameter coil in the wizard tube. I'm thinking this may be how/why the resistance increases so drastically when heated. I'm wondering if they did this as more of a safety thing.

Here is a prettier one 3.4ohms:
Dan
 

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nicotime

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Ok...seriously folks...What voltage are you getting on the small one Charged? I can barely get a puff out of this thing. The light comes on and its pumping fluid but very little vapor. I think my batteries may be too low...I measure about 2.6v with a .2v drop when activated. I don't think its making contact too good inside as sometimes it starts crackling when I wiggle the switch around some.

The small generator is using about 5.5" of 42ga. wire....002" thick man that's tiny. But, I put the meter on it and and I get 13-14 ohms and it should be around 594 for that ga. and length at 108 ohms per foot. Whats up with that?

Scuba, what is the material inside of your coil...it looks like tiny sleeve?
 

Scubabatdan

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Scuba, what is the material inside of your coil...it looks like tiny sleeve?

When you look down into a cartomizer you see a little hole in the batting material, there is a small silica braided sleeve in there. Quite usefull, I have a ton of dead cartomizers so I have been ripping them apart, even got bored and rebuilt one this afternoon, vapes like a champ now.
But it works great on shielding the center wire from the nichome wire running around it.
Dan
 
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Charged

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OK, Have a free day so time to play:
I'll be messing around with the mini generator today:
1st some tech info....
Total length of the glass tube is: 1.20"
Glass tube outside diameter is: 0.0275"
Don't know inside diameter but lead wire dia. is: 0.0090 (31 AWG)
Total resistance is: 20 Ohms.
Coil wire inside the glass tube is 5" long when stretched out. Yep Broke the 1st one out of the bag oops.8-o
Heater coil wire diameter is: 0.0015 (that's 48awg wire):confused:

For some size perspective "thats a dime by the way".

size1m.jpg



Coil length 10X magnification:
size2.jpg


Coil at 60X magnification:
size3x60xmag.jpg


Coil at 200X magnification:
size4x200xmag.jpg


Sorry about the picture quality, crappy little USB microscope...

Be back later hopefully with some vapor generating photos.
 

nicotime

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They are great pics C. I dont know about yours but when I took the loop of wire holding the lead wire to the tube the coil expanded and shot out of the glass tube like a jack in the box. It must be the way to keep it from burning that thin wire...it expands when heated shorting itself out along the coil in effect forming a heater tube instead of coils. Would that explain the resistance changes?
 
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