The Wizard - Why not?

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Scubabatdan

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OK, Have a free day so time to play:
I'll be messing around with the mini generator today:
1st some tech info....
Total length of the glass tube is: 1.20"
Glass tube outside diameter is: 0.0275"
Don't know inside diameter but lead wire dia. is: 0.0090 (31 AWG)
Total resistance is: 20 Ohms.
Coil wire inside the glass tube is 5" long when stretched out. Yep Broke the 1st one out of the bag oops.8-o
Heater coil wire diameter is: 0.0015 (that's 48awg wire):confused:

Be back later hopefully with some vapor generating photos.

So how wraps is that per inch LOL
Dang... thats tiny!
Dan
 

Charged

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They are great pics C. I dont know about yours but when I took the loop of wire holding the lead wire to the tube the coil expanded and shot out of the glass tube like a jack in the box. It must be the way to keep it from burning that thin wire...it expands when heated shorting itself out along the coil in effect forming a heater tube instead of coils. Would that explain the resistance changes?

Geezuz nico, that wasn't suppose to happen (JACK-IN THE BOX...OMG). Your glass tube must have been broken at one end. No the coil stays in the tube and should be sealed at both ends. LOL.... OK we each have 1 broken one, so we are even.:D
 

nicotime

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Both of them were...I just assumed they sent you rejects. I looked at both of them with my 18 power loupe when I open the pack and they had chips missing around the ends where the lead wires go in. The one that didn't pop out is broke about .100" in from the end but I think the lead inside the tube is holding it in yet so it still works. Could have been my fat fingers though, I don't have much feeling in my hands anymore from Carpal tunnel and hammers from when I was a steel fabricator.
 

Charged

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Bummer, well at least your giving it a try. Those lead wires are enamel coated. So you'll have to scrape them with a knife or heat the shat out a them to burn the coating off. They are what they call magnet wire. The coating on the outside is referred to as NYLEEZE. You can burn it off but it's messy.

I'm having some pretty good results with this little ring maker. Running it at 9 Volts, it's pulling 0.39 Amps and pumping out a lot of vapor for such a small heater.
 

nicotime

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Haha...I didn't get batteries with mine...:oops: I already had to re-acquire my fogger from the son who took off with it.

Oh...my wife found the empty box and wondered what SHE got in the mail..lol so I explained it to her.

I haven't been called that since she wanted an engagement ring and I told her I already gave her one...in the bathtub.:D
 

Charged

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LOL, I could have just as easily vaped that instead of just blowing air through it. It looks like 6 to 8 volts is optimum for this little guy, and it only draws around 350ma at 8 volts. This would be perfect for (2) 3.7V li-ions in series, or one of those TI PTN4050C step-up switchers and a couple 3.7V bats in parallel.

Oh and don't try running it above 13 volts, the fire was hard to put out.:oops:
 

Charged

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No way we are going to be able to clean this mini tube out when it clogs. I can see why it needs a drain plug now...not very efficient is it.

Poor Sun must have got himself duct taped fast to something...last I heard he had tools in hand waiting for the deconstruct sequence.lol

Oh you mean SurfVortex, yea I didn't give up on the clog issue yet. When mine clogged the other day I pulled another new one out. Before I put the bats in I filled it up with fluid and gave it a squeeze. Low and behold the fluid dribbled out of the end of the glass tube :confused:. I looked closely at it and the glass tube is broken near the top where the seal is suppose to be. It has to be broken inside the metal tube somewhere as well for the fluid to flow through like that.:grr:

I've been vaping this broken one for a few days now and it's working like a champ. Just been making sure the fluid is thin and no issues so far.

Tomorrow will be clog fix or fail day.
 

Charged

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What do you mean...I have to get a fire going to see the damn thing!

Do you think the coil basically turns in to one solid wire/tube when it heats up and all the coils shorts out to each other so it doesn't burn up. Would explain the resistance change right?

Well.... it's actually the other way around. The coil won't allow itself to get that hot (to a certain point :oops:). Because the wire is so thin and there are so many turns per inch the resistance of the wire increases dramatically as it is heated, what happens is you get a lot of heatig in a small area but you are using a lot of wire to do it. If the coil shorted together the resistance would drop and the current would increase and probably just melt the wire.

If your voltage remains constant and resistance increases with temperature your current will reduce. So your eventally going to get to a point where you just cant supply any more current do to the resistance increasing. At this point the temperature will stablilize and remain fairly constant.

They do a pretty good explanation here.
 

SurfVortex

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Jun 24, 2009
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Wow! Cool toys, guys! This is really good.
I'm so grateful that this thread is alive and gaining momentum. No worries about the de-clog exploration, I have 3 more of these 'wizmos', and am being much more careful with juice now.At the moment, I'm running VG and water mix, not as good as 'super fluid' as far as fog out put,but lovely none the less. We'll see if it clogs, then go from there.

Nico-glad to hear you got one of these, hope the explanation to Mrs. Nico went well....
Welcome to the thread Scuba and Trader, I hope you will find it as inspiring as I have!

Has anyone pondered the notion of using thin-walled ceramic (silicon carbonate) tube instead of glass? With the issues arising around ordering glass, thought this might be easier to obtain. I'll do some snooping.

And.. Don't worry!....Wrestled free of the duct tape, and secured it with the hacksaw and bulldozer to the clogged Wizard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:lol:
 
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