The Wizard - Why not?

[TonyLoco2]

Wow, nice work. I was hoping things would go in this direction. Can't wait to see the tests.

 

[Charged]

Dan, what material is the red support inside the silicone oring?
it looks like one of the pawns from the Milton Bradley Popomatic trouble board game.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Dan, what material is the red support inside the silicone oring?
it looks like one of the pawns from the Milton Bradley Popomatic trouble board game.

LOL, naw a local vendor got some empty liquid dispenser like this:

Empty of course, never had anything in them. Well the red thing is one of those caps, they are rubber, not sure if they are silicon but that is where I got it from. Used a 1/16" drill bit and reamed it out.
Dan

 

[leannebug]

Based on the data I've collected and the Wizard design, I'm officially claming defeat on using the Wizard as a vaping device in stock form.
<snip>
I will continue on improving the original Wizard design and see what happens.

My apology to those that may have purchased and expected vapor heaven based on my claims.

If it wasn't for you, we may not be watching the first American made atty being born into fruition. It's amazing to watch and it is awe-inspiring to talk about (told my son about it this morning)

Was it 2, 3 short years ago that the Chinese came out with the electronic cigarette.. 07, I believe?

Then we had the modders, starting with carts? (still working on that one), batteries (look at how well known the Nicostick is), juice, and now we have attys? That is simply amazing.

Each idea inspiring the next. A bunch of computer/science/art/bakery geeks working over the net to find a way to invent their own.

That is history, and we get to watch it unfold.

 

[5cardstud]

ScubaDan and Charged, you two amaze me. It is such a pleasure to watch masters at their crafts. Thank you both.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok, One step closer, just need to connect the juice bottle and bring it to life

Dan

 

[ecitek]

Ok, One step closer, just need to connect the juice bottle and bring it to life

Dan

Where do we pre-order Dan?

Will you Call it the Scuba-Bat-Att?

 

[ecitek]

Maybe the Dan-o-Mizer?

 

[Dave_uk]

Congratulations .... very well done.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Where do we pre-order Dan?

Will you Call it the Scuba-Bat-Att?

Maybe the Dan-o-Mizer?

LOL How about May the Quartz be with you (Spaceballs Parody)

I like Wicked Crystal

Dan

 

[leannebug]

LOL How about May the Quartz be with you (Spaceballs Parody)

LOL. I remember that stupid movie, was a fav of my brother

I like Wicked Crystal

Dan

OK, so where exactly do I sign up to be a tester??
I'll even save you the postage and drive the 50 so miles to pick it up! lol

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok, Here is the testing in progress.

[http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/dd292/scubabatdan/?action=view&current=VIDEO0008.flv]

More to follow....
Dan

 

[Charged]

Good test Dan. One thing to note: This technique looses some efficiency because we are using the glass as the atomizer/heat transfer mechanism and not the coil itself. The fact that your coil is open to the air on the outside and not being contained or constrained adds to it's losses, coupled with the fact that as you draw air through the tube past that coil you are adding to the cooling effect. Glass is not a fantastic thermal conductor. In fact glass is a fairly good insulator.

Is the fresh air being drawn from the base where the RCA connector is? You may wish to try putting a small hole in the glass near the exit of the atomizing glass tube for the fesh air draw. Also the wetting wire makes a difference. Have you tried a solid peice of wire without the wrap? You would want 26 or 28 awg wire. Minimizing the amount of fluid flowing along the glass helps quite a bit. Instead of a single blob of fluid you have a thin film riding around the outside of the solid wire and touching the glass. Just some thoughts

Nice work there. Will be working on mine tomorrow and Sunday.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Good test Dan. One thing to note: This technique looses some efficiency because we are using the glass as the atomizer/heat transfer mechanism and not the coil itself. The fact that your coil is open to the air on the outside and not being contained or constrained adds to it's losses, coupled with the fact that as you draw air through the tube past that coil you are adding to the cooling effect. Glass is not a fantastic thermal conductor. In fact glass is a fairly good insulator.

Is the fresh air being drawn from the base where the RCA connector is? You may wish to try putting a small hole in the glass near the exit of the atomizing glass tube for the fesh air draw. Also the wetting wire makes a difference. Have you tried a solid peice of wire without the wrap? You would want 26 or 28 awg wire. Minimizing the amount of fluid flowing along the glass helps quite a bit. Instead of a single blob of fluid you have a thin film riding around the outside of the solid wire and touching the glass. Just some thoughts

Nice work there. Will be working on mine tomorrow and Sunday.

Right, I got some of the Rutland Black and was going to apply that next. The air flow actually does not pass by the coil. The air flows in from the side of the mouth piece and forces the vapor back up into the mouth piece. Kinda of like blowing across the top of a bottle. The top section of the glass container is sealed off from the lower half. I will try the 26-28ga wire and see if that makes a difference.
Dan

 

[Charged]

OK got it. I should have realized the air couldn't be coming from below due to that nice looking divider setup with the silicone o'ring you have.

You're on the right track for sure Dan. I think you will find a light coating of the rutland black over the wire will help. I use a flat toothpic to spread it. You will need to let it set for about an hour to begin curing. If you apply heat too soon it will bubble up on you. Granted it won't be as purty but should help with heat transfer.

 

[USinchains]

Just wanted to let you guys know I've been lurking this thread for a while. This is a perfect example of reverse engineering and technical advancement, was waiting to see someone figure out how to clean a wizard but now I'm waiting to see you revolutionize the atomizer. Great work!

 

[SurfVortex]

Great work, Dan!
Can't wait to see what the weekend brings.....

Hey, Nico, whered'ja go?

 

[Scubabatdan]

In Destin FL for my daughter cheer compitition this weekend, so no R&D for me this week end
Will try the changes Charged suggested and report back.
Dan

 

[Charged]

Did some work this last weekend. As it turned out my RCA plugs were solid and not hollow as I 1st thought. Had gun drill the center post to get the tube through like Dan did, that was a PITA.

At any rate here are some pics of the progress. I was all set up to test my 1st one and broke the glas tube with my fat fingers, so had to do a second one.

Here is the 1st one.
(2) 38AWG nichrome wires in parallel. This is to cover a larger area and keep resistance down for use with lower voltages. Resistance was 5 ohms.

This was taken just before I broke the tube.

This is try number 2. Went with (2) 36 AWG nichrome wire in parallel. finished coil measured 5 ohms.

Here is the second one with the female jack plugged on.

I wanted to try some testing to see if I could get away without using the rutland black coating over the coil and it worked pretty well. The secret is to keep the coil wind tight against the glass and don't let it loosen. If it get's loose then the rutland black coating is needed. I would imagine it would still help with heating but I opted to go without for now so if I break the glass again I may be able to slide a new peice of glass in there.

I'm not doing any more videos until I have a good solid platform for liquid delivery and the whole thing assembled in a box running on battery power. Until then good luck with your testing guys.

 

[MoonMan]

What's to stop someone from using metal tubing instead of quartz? You'd have to find a way to shield the coil from it, but other than that I would think it would be much easier to use.

What could you use to shield the coil that is heat conductive but not electrically conductive?