I just received mine that I ordered Wednesday (shipped to OH, wow that was fast) and it doesn't have any Kanthal at all. I think I have some around here, but I'm curious if it was supposed to come with some?
The ZAP Rebuildable atomizer (RBA)
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It was suppose to come with Kanthal and a pre-made wick, unless they have changed something.
Yeah it came with a pre-made wick, just no extra Kanthal. It's not a big deal, I have extra, I was just trying to figure out if I was missing it somewhere. I read about it being wrapped on the syringe or around cardboard, but my syringe was sealed in plastic.
The ZAP is amazing though. I'll need to fill the hole a bit as I prefer a bit tighter draw, but the taste and vapor production are fantastic. I should have ordered 2.
The ZAP is amazing though. I'll need to fill the hole a bit as I prefer a bit tighter draw, but the taste and vapor production are fantastic. I should have ordered 2.
Wow - less than 48 hrs from time of order to my door. Provape you're fast! Thanks. (and I guess USPS did it's job too, it came from cross country to PA)
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When I first started using mine, i thought the same thing. I kept playing with it while looking for a suitable material to fill/cover it with and soon noticed that I actually got used to using it "as is". It takes getting used to, but filling the hole just seemed to make it produce less vapor/throat hit/taste.
YMMV though.
pfft. don't know why anyone would care if you polish it
I picked one up on the classies that was polished to a fabulous shine. I was too nervous to try it on mine!
But it looks awesome on my chrome ProVari!! Only one little nitpick, they lost the Zen logo when it was polished.
I satin bead blasted my top cap to match my satin Provari. I too lost my Zen logo
Hopefully they'll come out with spare top caps in matching finishes one day.
Hopefully they'll come out with spare top caps in matching finishes one day.
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i did this to mine dragged this over from another thread but you should be able to see the difference in the collar rings.
didnt have to bead blast it, the new one though^, im keeping satin for the time being untill my new satin mini comes to see how it matches up before i sand that one, dumb me just traded my other satin mini before i got it, but ill get another, probably w/ a red led this time instead of blue, then sand it down to ss to make it look like a cylon from BSG
w/ the zens if you ARE using the insulator, which i do sometimes ( i just space the coil farther away from the insulator, works better in front of the airhole anyways imo, insulator wont burn if its down inside the atty floor, which acts as a heatsink)
heres an example:
that was taken before i started doing unoxidised though, as you can see in the pic... you can do the petar k method w/ the drill bit and use unoxidised or barely oxidised mesh, which imo gives you obscene plumes and really good flavor, i do this w/ #500 mesh and it wicks well w/ both pg and vg juice so i dont have to change wicks. so insulators can be useful. I dont use them in all my stuff but they do have their place. I wouldnt reccommend using the included wicks but i do reccomend doing this setup w/ an insulator. you dont have to quench or do juice burns this way when oxidising your mesh, which clogs up the wick and makes it wick badly/gives dry hits. I just do a quick oxidising before i roll it, then roll it solid (#500 mesh) no straw, and do another quick oxidising and its good to go. hope this helps.
dragged this over from another thread but you should be able to see the difference in the collar rings.
didnt have to bead blast it, the new one though^, im keeping satin for the time being untill my new satin mini comes to see how it matches up before i sand that one, dumb me just traded my other satin mini before i got it, but ill get another, probably w/ a red led this time instead of blue, then sand it down to ss to make it look like a cylon from BSG
w/ the zens if you ARE using the insulator, which i do sometimes ( i just space the coil farther away from the insulator, works better in front of the airhole anyways imo, insulator wont burn if its down inside the atty floor, which acts as a heatsink)
heres an example:
that was taken before i started doing unoxidised though, as you can see in the pic... you can do the petar k method w/ the drill bit and use unoxidised or barely oxidised mesh, which imo gives you obscene plumes and really good flavor, i do this w/ #500 mesh and it wicks well w/ both pg and vg juice so i dont have to change wicks. so insulators can be useful. I dont use them in all my stuff but they do have their place. I wouldnt reccommend using the included wicks but i do reccomend doing this setup w/ an insulator. you dont have to quench or do juice burns this way when oxidising your mesh, which clogs up the wick and makes it wick badly/gives dry hits. I just do a quick oxidising before i roll it, then roll it solid (#500 mesh) no straw, and do another quick oxidising and its good to go. hope this helps.
heres a funny pic, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gen zaps, (1st gen w/ the two different size screws) the 3rd has a raised engraving on the top cap, same as the switch on the SW which i think is spiffy.
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ill get the 3 orings to hold the cap in place, wish there was just 1 i can change out for the top cap. oh well
Also on a zen atty or hybrid i would only use 32 gaugeas thats what they are designed for w/ insurance purposes in mind, the zap and zau have a spring in the post and im not sure of the tolerances of that spring but using a lower resistance R wire than what it was designed for w/ in mind might cause that spring to heat up and take some of the current away from the coil and into itself. Doing that is not only bad for the spring and the device itself but will also give you a subpar vape as some people have found out w/ the zen hybrids, as they have a similar current limiting spring in the switch (they are designed like this for a reason, for insurance purposes). Im sure if you wanted to you could find your own spring, maybe brass or nickel, and use whatever wire you want but im just putting this out there.
whew.... that was long winded
sent from a janky iphone 5
whew.... that was long winded sent from a janky iphone 5
Also on a zen atty or hybrid i would only use 32 gaugeas thats what they are designed for w/ insurance purposes in mind, the zap and zau have a spring in the post and im not sure of the tolerances of that spring but using a lower resistance R wire than what it was designed for w/ in mind might cause that spring to heat up and take some of the current away from the coil and into itself. Doing that is not only bad for the spring and the device itself but will also give you a subpar vape as some people have found out w/ the zen hybrids, as they have a similar current limiting spring in the switch (they are designed like this for a reason, for insurance purposes). Im sure if you wanted to you could find your own spring, maybe brass or nickel, and use whatever wire you want but im just putting this out there.
• sent from a janky iphone 5
hmmm? Now ya got me thinking about 'that spring' in the Z-Atty Pro. If I wrap a 2.0Ω coil w/ 32g or a 2.0Ω coil w/ 30g and vape either at ~7 watts I'm drawing basically the same amps through the system. So I'm thinking the 'spring' doesn't care that the coil is 32g or 30g. I wonder if Zen even thought about the spring having to endure more variation on the ZAP being used on a VV device.
I satin bead blasted my top cap to match my satin Provari. I too lost my Zen logo
Hopefully they'll come out with spare top caps in matching finishes one day.
Wow that looks nice. Where did you get the blue tank?
Also on a zen atty or hybrid i would only use 32 gaugeas thats what they are designed for w/ insurance purposes in mind, the zap and zau have a spring in the post and im not sure of the tolerances of that spring but using a lower resistance R wire than what it was designed for w/ in mind might cause that spring to heat up and take some of the current away from the coil and into itself. Doing that is not only bad for the spring and the device itself but will also give you a subpar vape as some people have found out w/ the zen hybrids, as they have a similar current limiting spring in the switch (they are designed like this for a reason, for insurance purposes). Im sure if you wanted to you could find your own spring, maybe brass or nickel, and use whatever wire you want but im just putting this out there.
• sent from a janky iphone 5
Now you both have me wondering as well. Looking at other hybrids like my iHybrid there is a screw that goes all the way through from bottom to top unlike the spring. Hmmm...
I'm so jealous of some of your super speedy shipments! Mine is still floating somewhere between Washington and California
Sent from down a rabbit hole using Tapatalk.
Sent from down a rabbit hole using Tapatalk.
I'm so jealous of some of your super speedy shipments! Mine is still floating somewhere between Washington and California
+1... Sigh.
+1... Sigh.
Remind me to never order with Priority Mail shipping from USPS again. I was thinking about it, and I always remember this happening... but every time I order with First Class Mail, my stuff always gets here on time. For example, I ordered a drip-tip coming from Philadelphia (much further than Washington) after I ordered from ProVape (and also shipping after my order from ProVape did), and it's already at my local post office.
I really wish ProVape offered UPS or FedEx. I've had nothing but shady business from USPS, and I can't wait till they go out of business; I've never had success with their more expensive shipping either.
Well, everything finally came in today. 4v seems perfect for 2.2Ω... I was getting far too much throat-hit at 4.5v and 5v and couldn't even straight draw from the device. I was a bit worried about how hard it was to put on and remove the cap, but after it got some lubrication from the vapor, the tightness is just perfect... I'm very pleased for my first VV APV and RBA setup.
Well, everything finally came in today. 4v seems perfect for 2.2Ω... I was getting far too much throat-hit at 4.5v and 5v and couldn't even straight draw from the device. I was a bit worried about how hard it was to put on and remove the cap, but after it got some lubrication from the vapor, the tightness is just perfect... I'm very pleased for my first VV APV and RBA setup.
You can vary the throat hit, depending where you align the air hole. Start with it directly in front of the wick for max vapor and minimum TH. As you move it away from the wick throat hit increases.
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