A very simple Zenesis 2 question....

[vision83]

As a replacement for the Zenesis Standard, The Z2 Altus 18650 is specifically designed to be used with an AW IMR 18650 battery, and features a 4.5Ml juice tank and fully rebuildable and configurable built-in atomizer.
Altus features our new "Snug Fit" Top Cap and Z2 Accessory Threading so every Z2 accessory can be used on this versatile little PV.
Specs:
Powered by AW IMR 18650 Cell (not included)
4.5ml Fused Quartz juice Tank
Vertical Rebuildable Atomizer which can be Mesh/Coil, Ceramic or Silica
Adjustable throat hit
Diameter: .860"
Height: 6.125"
Material: Stainless Surgical Steel
24K Gold Plated Contacts on all electrical connections
Entirely mechanical and Rebuildable
No solder, Flux or wire in the entire PV

Here is the question...

The Z2 Altus says the atty is built in? I think it screws into the battery tube. ????

Just like a ZAP screws onto a provari...

Most hybrids dont disconnect there.

 

[VaporGrande]

It works with out a 510 connection. The atty screws right to the battery tube.

 

[vision83]

So it's not built in like the description... When I think built in..I think Orion where the main center post that goes through the tank is one piece. Thank you though for answering my question.

 

[REDXIII99]

u have the choice to use the atomizer or the 510 cap

 

[vision83]

u have the choice to use the atomizer or the 510 cap

Or the zen carto tank... What I am saying is the atty is NOT built in. It's interchangeable battery tube with a button on the bottom. So let me ask the question... What's the difference besides the gold contacts between a Z2 510 mod with z atty u on top and zenesis 2 tube with z2 atty?

 

[VaporGrande]

There is no 510 connection between the battery and the atty contact.The atty contact touches the battery.Making a better contact and less likely to lose or drop battery voltage.

 

[sonicdsl]

Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems from New Members

 

[Robbieadams25]

Ok I need some help! Just got my Z2 Brevis got it coiled and ready put in my battery 18350 AW IMR went to fire... Got nothing! Also the battery is loose in the tube not sure what I'm doing wrong? Also I took apart the switch because I heard the springs where rusted witch mine was but that's not my issue. Put everything back how it was but nothing?... I'm needing alite help pleased,

 

[vision83]

Ok I need some help! Just got my Z2 Brevis got it coiled and ready put in my battery 18350 AW IMR went to fire... Got nothing! Also the battery is loose in the tube not sure what I'm doing wrong? Also I took apart the switch because I heard the springs where rusted witch mine was but that's not my issue. Put everything back how it was but nothing?... I'm needing alite help pleased,

There is also a gold screw under the atty that can be adjusted and may help with the loose battery or not... I just got mine and haven't played with them yet.

 

[vision83]

I just got mine to fire with an efast 18350 flat top... even a looser fit! But anyways don't un-thread the top screw under the atty... The circuit will not be complete. Unscrew the bottom screw where the button is, just a little so it pushes the battery up more. Mine would not fire either if the switch screw is tightened all the way down. Not too happy about the battery play but my 18350's are shorter than the AW's.

Let me know what you find out...

 

[Robbieadams25]

I resolve the problem I guess when I took to switch apart I dropped one of the two washers that was under screw! Went to my local hardware store and bought a whole bunch of new stainless steel washers Anybody that is wanting to know the part number is #82532 #8 It worked like a charm!

 

[vision83]

I resolve the problem I guess when I took to switch apart I dropped one of the two washers that was under screw! Went to my local hardware store and bought a whole bunch of new stainless steel washers Anybody that is wanting to know the part number is #82532 #8 It worked like a charm!

There is only one washer under the screw... I just looked at three switches... But I am sure atleast one washer is needed. You can also add a washer to increase the throw of the button. Just don't add too many! If you put two washers back in then your screw will be pushing the battery up more.

 

[Crash Moses]

I spoke to Zen at VapeStock and asked about the loose battery. He said that it was deliberate and went on to explain that arcing between the battery and post was a leading contributor to dirty contacts and that the Z2 design helped in that regard...thus the loose battery.

It bothered me a little at first but now I hardly notice it.

 

[Skeetorius]

I just got mine to fire with an efast 18350 flat top... even a looser fit! But anyways don't un-thread the top screw under the atty... The circuit will not be complete. Unscrew the bottom screw where the button is, just a little so it pushes the battery up more. Mine would not fire either if the switch screw is tightened all the way down. Not too happy about the battery play but my 18350's are shorter than the AW's.

Let me know what you find out...

When I picked mine (Brevis) up from Vapestock, Zen was there. I actually got to meet him. I showed him what I just bought and he ran over to the table and grabbed a second washer for me. The washer goes between the screw and the spring. Before the spring, not behind it. This extra washer keeps the screw up higher when its tightened down completely. Also, I think people (Mod producers) need to start making flat screws for better contact with the bottom of the battery. The rounded top screw only makes a slight overall connection (total surface area) with the battery. Make it flat and, BANG, you will have a better connection. Why is this so hard?

 

[vision83]

When I picked mine (Brevis) up from Vapestock, Zen was there. I actually got to meet him. I showed him what I just bought and he ran over to the table and grabbed a second washer for me. The washer goes between the screw and the spring. Before the spring, not behind it. This extra washer keeps the screw up higher when its tightened down completely. Also, I think people (Mod producers) need to start making flat screws for better contact with the bottom of the battery. The rounded top screw only makes a slight overall connection (total surface area) with the battery. Make it flat and, BANG, you will have a better connection. Why is this so hard?

I did add a second washer and also on o-ring to get rid of the battery rattle... Works perfect!

But then I decided to try a kick in both configurations
18650 – AW IMR 18490 and Kick by Evolv (both brand new) will not screw in all the way close but 3mm of gap.
18490 – AW IMR 18350 and Kick by Evolv (both brand new) Big gap! 5mm at least…
Video to watch - Zenesis 2 490c Carto Hybrid - YouTube
Zen is this by design, like the battery rattle????
Loving my Orion V3 and can’t wait for the IHybrid pure!

Zen did post this about the rattle...
Q~ My Zenesis has battery rattle... Why is this happening and what can be done to solve it?
A~ Battery Rattle is not an indication that something is wrong, and in the case of the Zenesis, it's a sign that something is right.

The switch on the Zenesis is unique in it's design, and the way in which it works is quite novel. When you depress the switch button, it slides the battery up until the positive connection makes contact at the opposite end as opposed to making contact exclusively at the negative end. For this to happen the battery needs to be able to slide freely in the chamber. This design reduces contact arcing making the PV less prone to the constant cleaning caused by the buildup of carbon that happens when an arc happens at the moment of contact. To remove the rattle rattle would result in the bypass of this function

Zen please post something about the issues when using a kick...

 

[Skeetorius]

I did add a second washer and also on o-ring to get rid of the battery rattle... Works perfect!

But then I decided to try a kick in both configurations
18650 – AW IMR 18490 and Kick by Evolv (both brand new) will not screw in all the way close but 3mm of gap.
18490 – AW IMR 18350 and Kick by Evolv (both brand new) Big gap! 5mm at least…
Video to watch - Zenesis 2 490c Carto Hybrid - YouTube
Zen is this by design, like the battery rattle????
Loving my Orion V3 and can’t wait for the IHybrid pure!

Zen did post this about the rattle...
Q~ My Zenesis has battery rattle... Why is this happening and what can be done to solve it?
A~ Battery Rattle is not an indication that something is wrong, and in the case of the Zenesis, it's a sign that something is right.

The switch on the Zenesis is unique in it's design, and the way in which it works is quite novel. When you depress the switch button, it slides the battery up until the positive connection makes contact at the opposite end as opposed to making contact exclusively at the negative end. For this to happen the battery needs to be able to slide freely in the chamber. This design reduces contact arcing making the PV less prone to the constant cleaning caused by the buildup of carbon that happens when an arc happens at the moment of contact. To remove the rattle rattle would result in the bypass of this function

Zen please post something about the issues when using a kick...

I just got back from Home Depot. Bought a new brass screw (1/2 inch) and some #8 brass washers. This thing fires like a champ now, better than it did out of the tube/box.

 

[vision83]

I just got back from Home Depot. Bought a new brass screw (1/2 inch) and some #8 brass washers. This thing fires like a champ now, better than it did out of the tube/box.

Try to add a kick! Then tell me what you think...

 

[Ottotek]

I'm having exactly the same issues with the 350 batt not firing, and the kick not allowing the switch to fully seat. The washers/screw fixes the 350 batt issue, but the kick causing the switch to not thread in fully is more problematic. You would just about need a different switch assy... does the kick work in other mods because the battery spring allows for the greater length of kick/battery assy?