The ZAP Rebuildable atomizer (RBA)

[kiba]

hmmm? Now ya got me thinking about 'that spring' in the Z-Atty Pro. If I wrap a 2.0Ω coil w/ 32g or a 2.0Ω coil w/ 30g and vape either at ~7 watts I'm drawing basically the same amps through the system. So I'm thinking the 'spring' doesn't care that the coil is 32g or 30g. I wonder if Zen even thought about the spring having to endure more variation on the ZAP being used on a VV device.

I just know from talking to mike at vc, that because of insurance reasons he had to include a spring in each of his devices that will limit current in case of something bad happening, in my zaps and zau, its the spring that makes the pin travel up and down, in the zenesis standard/mini its in the switch, in the sidewinder theres one in the switch and one under the atty, i actually had those springs replaced w/ copper ones in some of my devices so that i could use twisted 32ga. but in the zap its pointless imo, if i try to do the same coil/wattage on the zap that i would do on one of my hybids or even my zau/paps, the 'vari will error out every time. for me, at least right now mechanical is where its at. That said i love all of my prozaps and use em on the regular. I just do 5 wraps at as high as it will let me and although its not the same its decent and good enough.


• sent from a janky iphone 5

 

[neoexodus]

Hey y'all, any word on when ZAPs may be back in stock? Thanks!!

 

[Kenneth R.]

Does anyone take the plastic insulator thing out of the wick hole? It doesn't give me much room for a fat wick. But if it's there for a reason and it's better to have it, please explain why. Thanks to any and all

 

[Skyway]

Zen put it there for an insulator for grounding purposes. Some use it some don't. I use it as intended and it has never caused me to have a bad vape. The Zap works perfectly well with it there.

 

[MikeE3]

Does anyone take the plastic insulator thing out of the wick hole? It doesn't give me much room for a fat wick. But if it's there for a reason and it's better to have it, please explain why. Thanks to any and all

Zen put it there for an insulator for grounding purposes. Some use it some don't. I use it as intended and it has never caused me to have a bad vape. The Zap works perfectly well with it there.

Ken, your question opens Pandora's Box w/ regard to the insulator. Like Skyway said, Zen~ designed it to be used w/ the insulator and strongly recommends using it. No matter how well oxidized the wick, there can/will be some 'leak' to ground from the coil through the wick. The insulator is to prevent that from happening.

Will it work w/o the insulator and do some people not use it. Yes.

You can get more mesh into the insulator than you think. I've had as much as 100mm of 500 SS mesh rolled and fit through the insulator. I've run my Zaps both ways and get a perfectly good vape w/ or w/o it. Right now I have one going w/ a stock wick/coil/insulator and another with 60mm of mesh, a 2.4ohm 30g Kanthal coil and no insulator. IMHO running w/o the insulator shouldn't be done unless you're confident with setting up a geny style RBA or willing to accept potential current drain/shorting through the wick.

 

[mekks082]

I pulled the insulator and used some cotton around the wick in place. I did this to "take space" as the normal setup was too small of a wick, and fully open was too thick imo.

 

[MikeE3]

While we're talking about insulators - if anyone takes theirs out before using it and/or has some new insulator from one of the repair kits would you please look at it and see if you see the 'marking' for the O.D. of the tube. I have some 'new' ones but can only see the I.D. which is .093 inches. I'm guessing the O.D. is ~ 3mm but would like to know what's marked on the tube. I'm trying to locate a source of this tubing so I'm trying to determine the size shipped with the ZAP and/or repair kit.

 

[mekks082]

While we're talking about insulators - if anyone takes theirs out before using it and/or has some new insulator from one of the repair kits would you please look at it and see if you see the 'marking' for the O.D. of the tube. I have some 'new' ones but can only see the I.D. which is .093 inches. I'm guessing the O.D. is ~ 3mm but would like to know what's marked on the tube. I'm trying to locate a source of this tubing so I'm trying to determine the size shipped with the ZAP and/or repair kit.

All mine says is USA, sorry =(

 

[kiba]

Does anyone take the plastic insulator thing out of the wick hole? It doesn't give me much room for a fat wick. But if it's there for a reason and it's better to have it, please explain why. Thanks to any and all

see post #608, w/ the insulator you can use an unoxidised or barely oxidised wick petar k style.

 

[gmypc]

Hello!

Been using the zap for a week and lovin' it!!

I'd like to clean the tank but for the life of me, I can't take it off. Does anyone have any problems with theirs? Any tips?

Some threads mentioned that the latest run for zens have tighter fits for the top cap (I can hold it by the top cap with a provari). I wonder if it also applies to the tank assembly...

Thanks!

 

[lowboy]

Take the o-ring for the cap off and the tank will slide right off.
Mike designed it that way.

 

[Skyway]

Well, if the tank has been on there for awhile, it won't just "slip off". Get your hands really dry and spin. I was trying to take mine off last week and was almost afraid it would break in my hand it was so hard to take off. I took a little piece of flat plastic and applied a very small turn to help move it up. I did not want to use metal as to damage the tank glass.

 

[gmypc]

Take the o-ring for the cap off and the tank will slide right off.
Mike designed it that way.

Thanks, I know about the top o-ring from Mike's video - I can't even budge the tank 1mm up

Well, if the tank has been on there for awhile, it won't just "slip off". Get your hands really dry and spin. I was trying to take mine off last week and was almost afraid it would break in my hand it was so hard to take off. I took a little piece of flat plastic and applied a very small turn to help move it up. I did not want to use metal as to damage the tank glass.

Thanks. I'll try what you suggest. I'm afraid of breaking it too.

Cheers!

 

[tybin]

best bet is to let some vg ooze down between the o rings and glass. aftwr it sits, turn it while pulling. be sure to lube the o rings before re-assembling

 

[wonderland]

Hello!

Been using the zap for a week and lovin' it!!

I'd like to clean the tank but for the life of me, I can't take it off. Does anyone have any problems with theirs? Any tips?

Some threads mentioned that the latest run for zens have tighter fits for the top cap (I can hold it by the top cap with a provari). I wonder if it also applies to the tank assembly...

Thanks!

You're not the only one, I can't even turn mine. I'm really afraid of breaking it as well. Good luck!

 

[Nuuze]

With juice in tank if you twist it a few times the juice will sometimes work its way to free it up some.

 

[gmypc]

With juice in tank if you twist it a few times the juice will sometimes work its way to free it up some.

But I don't want to waste a drop of my pluid

Great tips - I'll try again once I finish my current tank. With my bad luck I ordered an extra tank but that was for accidental tip overs. All in all I'm glad it's on the tight side - it just looked so easy on Mike's video.

 

[MikeE3]

It can help if you have some thin rubber grippers, like jar top removers, or even thin rubber gloves to grip the bottom metal rim and glass tank. I find it works better for me to leave it on the PV as I can get a better grip on the bottom of the atty. Then use a firm motion twisting around and up at the same time. Once it breaks loose from the bottom o-ring - take a breadth and do it again. Sometimes it takes a pretty firm grip, but it will come loose for ya.

 

[neoexodus]

Hey y'all, any word on when ZAPs may be back in stock? Thanks!!

?

10 char

 

[tybin]

January 3ish