The ZAP Rebuildable atomizer (RBA)

[Krystm]

Mine came today thanks to a mis-ship from usps. Now I know what all the fuss is about...

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[lowboy]

Why is there a gap between your mod and end cap?
Congrats on getting a great rba.

Mine came today thanks to a mis-ship from usps. Now I know what all the fuss is about...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2

 

[frazz]

Why is there a gap between your mod and end cap?
Congrats on getting a great rba.

Looks like the oring they sell for the power 2600 bat or something like that.

 

[Krystm]

18650 flat top panasonic battery with magnet. Didnt want to risk the electronics so got a spacer ring. You can order them on provapes site. Also used when using the big power batteries.

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[MR.VAP3]

Congrat!!!!!!!!!

mine came today thanks to a mis-ship from usps. Now i know what all the fuss is about...

sent from my samsung-sgh-i317 using tapatalk 2

 

[VaporHead512]

What's the highest voltage you'd set your ProVari at if you had a 1.7ohm coil running in the zap?

 

[Krystm]

My coil is at 1.8 running 3.7-3.8V Its pretty good. Still getting used to the draw but its pretty good. Not sure if I am doing anything wrong but tastes pretty much the same as my $12 Fake DiD. :/

 

[VaporHead512]

My coil is at 1.8 running 3.7-3.8V Its pretty good. Still getting used to the draw but its pretty good. Not sure if I am doing anything wrong but tastes pretty much the same as my $12 Fake DiD. :/

I'm still getting used to the zap and my iHy, but as far as my hh357 goes, I run my 1.5ohm at 4.1volts on the ProVari. Some juices let me go up to 4.3v, other juices want to be closer to 3.8v

Kick your 1.8 coil up to at least 4 volts and see what ya think

 

[Krystm]

4.0 Hits pretty good but seems to dry out kinda quickly making for a dry hit.
4.1+ HIts dry almost instantly.

I am tipping and not chain vaping.

65/15 VG/PG Fluid Using Stock wick which not sure which mesh wick they put in but according to the review they said it doesn't affect wicking that it only affects taste and TH?

 

[MR.VAP3]

I vape at 1.2 ohm @ 3.9 V or 12 W

 

[MR.VAP3]

You can take out the insulator from the wick hole and roll yourself a big fat 500 mesh wick. It will wick much better at higher Wattage.

4.0 Hits pretty good but seems to dry out kinda quickly making for a dry hit.
4.1+ HIts dry almost instantly.

I am tipping and not chain vaping.

65/15 VG/PG Fluid Using Stock wick which not sure which mesh wick they put in but according to the review they said it doesn't affect wicking that it only affects taste and TH?

 

[Krystm]

I just have the stock wicks right now, I have seen the process how to make them but I don't have a torch or the mesh to make it. I was hoping to honestly stay away from that and just buy pre made ones. But alas as it is with RBAs it may be the best way to go. Wont removing the insulator be a bad idea though since the grounding and all that?

 

[cruxfm]

So I've had my zap for 3-4 weeks now. And have been enjoying every minute. This is my 1st genesis, so there has been a learning curve which is fine. But I seem to be a little impatient when dealing with the coils.

I wanna get an idea of how often do you change coils? For me it's been every two weeks.

I've been vaping a tank and a half then clean. Clean with surging water through the tank. And dry burn until I can remove the gunk build up on the coils. Then proceed to fill tank per Zen instructions.

 

[VaporHead512]

I just have the stock wicks right now, I have seen the process how to make them but I don't have a torch or the mesh to make it. I was hoping to honestly stay away from that and just buy pre made ones. But alas as it is with RBAs it may be the best way to go. Wont removing the insulator be a bad idea though since the grounding and all that?

I removed the insulator. My other genesis atomizer doesn't have one and it was working better than this, so I pulled it. My batteries are lasting a little longer now, I can fit a fatter wick in there, and I'm just not seeing any grounding issues. If your wick is drying up that fast, 1 you need a fatter wick, preferably 500 mesh, but you can find some nice fat pre-rolled 400 wicks from vendors, and 2 try a juice that is not so thick so it wicks a little better. Maybe a 50/50 juice or 60pg/40vg

 

[kiba]

You can take out the insulator from the wick hole and roll yourself a big fat 500 mesh wick. It will wick much better at higher Wattage.

more wattage/voltage does not change wicking characteristics of the mesh, if you use the insulator you can use un-oxidised mesh which does wick a lot better as oxidisarion & carbon clogs up the little holes in the mesh. (look up Petar K method)

To clean just take the cap off, top o ring, take tank off (dont squeeze), and rinse everything under hot water, Dry everything off and screw the atty back on the 'vari, tilt it upside down and dry burn all the water out of the wick, keep doing it untill the gunk turns to ash, then run it under hot water again and dry burn the water out of the wick again, put some juice (whatever you plan on vaping) on the inside walls of the quartz tank to make it easy to slip it over the o rings, replace top o ring, tilt so wick is facing up like this (see pic) then fill.

• sent from a janky iphone 5

 

[MR.VAP3]

I changed my coils when I noticing a burnt taste.

So I've had my zap for 3-4 weeks now. And have been enjoying every minute. This is my 1st genesis, so there has been a learning curve which is fine. But I seem to be a little impatient when dealing with the coils.

I wanna get an idea of how often do you change coils? For me it's been every two weeks.

I've been vaping a tank and a half then clean. Clean with surging water through the tank. And dry burn until I can remove the gunk build up on the coils. Then proceed to fill tank per Zen instructions.

 

[MR.VAP3]

A tightly rolled 500 mesh (100mm width without the insulator) with vey little center wick hole can absorb more juices; therefore, it allows me to vape on a much higher wattage (wattae/voltage without any dry hits and of course much more vapors. An interesting read here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh.html

more wattage/voltage does not change wicking characteristics of the mesh, if you use the insulator you can use un-oxidised mesh which does wick a lot better as oxidisarion & carbon clogs up the little holes in the mesh. (look up Petar K method)

To clean just take the cap off, top o ring, take tank off (dont squeeze), and rinse everything under hot water, Dry everything off and screw the atty back on the 'vari, tilt it upside down and dry burn all the water out of the wick, keep doing it untill the gunk turns to ash, then run it under hot water again and dry burn the water out of the wick again, put some juice (whatever you plan on vaping) on the inside walls of the quartz tank to make it easy to slip it over the o rings, replace top o ring, tilt so wick is facing up like this (see pic) then fill.

• sent from a janky iphone 5

 

[kiba]

that wick in that pic there is a solid 500 mesh wick ^ ive been using 500 mesh since you could only get it from the UK, also, just putting this out there but i bought some 500 from a few US vendors and compared it to my mesh company 500, and it was obviously 400. Other people have noticed that too apparently a bunch of US vendors are selling 400 as 500. Also you have to make sure its 316LVM SS mesh too.

with the capillary action of 500 mesh you dont have to worry about making a super fat wick, you will get more wicking out of an unoxidised wick, then a over-oxidised fat one. when you do juice burns and oxidise you start to clog up the holes in the mesh, and 500 mesh has really small holes that clog very easily. w/ the insulator, i barely have to oxidise at all, jsut a quick once over before i roll it to burn off any oil and thats it. it wicks better and faster like that than an oxidised fat wick.



heres a vid about the petar k method ^

 

[MR.VAP3]

Here is the link for the 500 mesh in UK, very fine and high quality.
The Mesh Company (Warrington) Ltd #400 & #500 Super Fine E-Cig Wicking Mesh - 25 Micron & Atomizer Wire

 

[MikeE3]

that wick in that pic there is a solid 500 mesh wick ^ ive been using 500 mesh since you could only get it from the UK, also, just putting this out there but i bought some 500 from a few US vendors and compared it to my mesh company 500, and it was obviously 400. Other people have noticed that too apparently a bunch of US vendors are selling 400 as 500. Also you have to make sure its 316LVM SS mesh too.

with the capillary action of 500 mesh you dont have to worry about making a super fat wick, you will get more wicking out of an unoxidised wick, then a over-oxidised fat one. when you do juice burns and oxidise you start to clog up the holes in the mesh, and 500 mesh has really small holes that clog very easily. w/ the insulator, i barely have to oxidise at all, jsut a quick once over before i roll it to burn off any oil and thats it. it wicks better and faster like that than an oxidised fat wick.



heres a vid about the petar k method ^

Wow - he wound up w/ a 2mm I.D. for his wick - more like making a straw.