Weellllllllllllll....technically the factory mini only accepts two different batts too...unless you were using one of those non-OEM telescope sections. I have the fullsize myself. I run it with the ZAP and a 18500 using the standard base cap. If I know I'm going to be away from the house (out all day fishing), then I use the 18650. I still want a mini and will eventually get around to ordering one, but I doubt it will ever be used with a 18350, or at least not for very long.
I still think that Provape should come out with their own 18650 extensions for the mini.
there are those and also the kir fanis ones, w/ the provari mini you can use any 18mm battery, and its also a bit smaller than the standard 'vari in 18500 and 18650 modes.
Im planning on taking it apart and polishing my pv, and anodizing the top and bottom caps. I just cant decide yet what color Im going to. LOL
- How did you took your top caps off, does the control unit attached to it? I've heard its just pressed in there, how hard it is to take it out? (Didnt check youtube yet)
Thanks in advance!
PS: I hand polished at least 50% of the stuff on my engine bay. So Im guessing the pv would be easier/faster?
my wrx is similarly shiny, sometimes

its my daily driver so its hard to keep it that way. just take a long thin flathead and place it against the inside of the top cap from underneath, then tap it out w/ a hammer. I did it once to line up the button w/ wick placement on the zap, but two of mine already had perfect wick placement, and this one fell on the ground and the top cap came half way off already

, so i just used this way to get it off completely, turned it to where i wanted it and then pushed it back on, placed a block of wood on top of it and hammered it back on. I was too scared to take it completely off so i never got a good look at the board inside, when i polished and brushed the other two minis I traded all i did was take the screen off. left the chip in.
also the colored ones are better imo for polishing/brushing as you can just strip the paint, I havent tried a satin one but i do know its hard to get down inside those little teardrops as the satin is a finish to the actual SS, it cant be stripped off chemically.
Anyone have advice on which mesh is best for properly wicking 100% VG? I keep getting a burnt taste. Currently using the 400 ss mesh Zen pre-installed. My PG juices are wicking fine with this though.
you want 200 mesh, I use 500 in half of my
devices, 200 in the other half, imo that gives you the best range for thick/thin juices allthough 500 has the best cappillary action and will wick w/out having to tilt, and also works with the largest range of thick/thin juices it just takes longer to wick, while the 200 wicks super fast.