The ZAP Rebuildable atomizer (RBA)

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kiba

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What no full size Provari? I think you need a new full size V2.5 to add to your collection...lol

why would i, lol i only use them w/ the zaps and the mini is huge enough w/ one on top... w/ a zap on top of a standard they look like a baseball batt... plus the mini accepts 3 types of batts while the standard only accepts 2. plus im not too crazy about the new standard style, the mini is a little better but i dont like the lines they put on there or the teardrops aroudn the "mini" less is more imo.
Sorry for crappy phone camera picture, this is the only one I have right now. I know it doesnt do justice, but you get the idea.

8430524322_45a97d1234_z.jpg
thanks for posting the pic, i do like the engraved logo, but i also like the option to debrand my 'vari's... ive stripped them and brushed/polished them before and they look really good like that.
 
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tinstar15

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Weellllllllllllll....technically the factory mini only accepts two different batts too...unless you were using one of those non-OEM telescope sections. I have the fullsize myself. I run it with the ZAP and a 18500 using the standard base cap. If I know I'm going to be away from the house (out all day fishing), then I use the 18650. I still want a mini and will eventually get around to ordering one, but I doubt it will ever be used with a 18350, or at least not for very long.

I still think that Provape should come out with their own 18650 extensions for the mini.
 

neoexodus

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Weellllllllllllll....technically the factory mini only accepts two different batts too...unless you were using one of those non-OEM telescope sections. I have the fullsize myself. I run it with the ZAP and a 18500 using the standard base cap. If I know I'm going to be away from the house (out all day fishing), then I use the 18650. I still want a mini and will eventually get around to ordering one, but I doubt it will ever be used with a 18350, or at least not for very long.

I still think that Provape should come out with their own 18650 extensions for the mini.

I wouldn't expect to see them do that; it would canabalize sales of the standard, leaving a very small population of standard buyers.

If I could pay 160-180 for a mini, +20-24 for a 18490 cap, +(est) 25-30 for a 18650 cap (or maybe around the same or less for a sleeve), why would I turn around and pay an additional 160-180 for standard plus cap for 18650? The only standard buyers would be people that had no intention of ever using an 18350 (and since most people at least want options, I would say this is a low volume group) or those that absolutely refuse to deal with more parts that they have to carry around or deal with (3 caps vs. 2).

I'm just not seeing the upside potential in the market for them. Additionally, it would require Provape to design, tool up, and produce an additional item, which costs money and time, not to mention the cost of stocking an item for sale. If I were them, I wouldn't change a thing (let's be clear here, I'm speaking from a business sense here; as a consumer, I would love to see it and would purchase it myself).

My .02
 
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MikeE3

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why would i, lol i only use them w/ the zaps and the mini is huge enough w/ one on top... w/ a zap on top of a standard they look like a baseball batt... plus the mini accepts 3 types of batts while the standard only accepts 2.
I use to own a ZAP so I have to agree with you, it fits the mini with the 18350 the best.....On the full size with ext cap its way to long..and heavy...

I like the ZAP on the full size (w/ 18490) for around the house and the mini (w/18350) when out and about.
 

sil40sx

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thanks for posting the pic, i do like the engraved logo, but i also like the option to debrand my 'vari's... ive stripped them and brushed/polished them before and they look really good like that.

Im planning on taking it apart and polishing my pv, and anodizing the top and bottom caps. I just cant decide yet what color Im going to. LOL

- How did you took your top caps off, does the control unit attached to it? I've heard its just pressed in there, how hard it is to take it out? (Didnt check youtube yet)

Thanks in advance!


PS: I hand polished at least 50% of the stuff on my engine bay. So Im guessing the pv would be easier/faster?

8433819752_8de77dc755_z.jpg
 
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kiba

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Weellllllllllllll....technically the factory mini only accepts two different batts too...unless you were using one of those non-OEM telescope sections. I have the fullsize myself. I run it with the ZAP and a 18500 using the standard base cap. If I know I'm going to be away from the house (out all day fishing), then I use the 18650. I still want a mini and will eventually get around to ordering one, but I doubt it will ever be used with a 18350, or at least not for very long.

I still think that Provape should come out with their own 18650 extensions for the mini.

there are those and also the kir fanis ones, w/ the provari mini you can use any 18mm battery, and its also a bit smaller than the standard 'vari in 18500 and 18650 modes.

0

Im planning on taking it apart and polishing my pv, and anodizing the top and bottom caps. I just cant decide yet what color Im going to. LOL

- How did you took your top caps off, does the control unit attached to it? I've heard its just pressed in there, how hard it is to take it out? (Didnt check youtube yet)

Thanks in advance!


PS: I hand polished at least 50% of the stuff on my engine bay. So Im guessing the pv would be easier/faster?

8433819752_8de77dc755_z.jpg
my wrx is similarly shiny, sometimes :laugh: its my daily driver so its hard to keep it that way. just take a long thin flathead and place it against the inside of the top cap from underneath, then tap it out w/ a hammer. I did it once to line up the button w/ wick placement on the zap, but two of mine already had perfect wick placement, and this one fell on the ground and the top cap came half way off already :laugh:, so i just used this way to get it off completely, turned it to where i wanted it and then pushed it back on, placed a block of wood on top of it and hammered it back on. I was too scared to take it completely off so i never got a good look at the board inside, when i polished and brushed the other two minis I traded all i did was take the screen off. left the chip in.

also the colored ones are better imo for polishing/brushing as you can just strip the paint, I havent tried a satin one but i do know its hard to get down inside those little teardrops as the satin is a finish to the actual SS, it cant be stripped off chemically.
Anyone have advice on which mesh is best for properly wicking 100% VG? I keep getting a burnt taste. Currently using the 400 ss mesh Zen pre-installed. My PG juices are wicking fine with this though.
you want 200 mesh, I use 500 in half of my devices, 200 in the other half, imo that gives you the best range for thick/thin juices allthough 500 has the best cappillary action and will wick w/out having to tilt, and also works with the largest range of thick/thin juices it just takes longer to wick, while the 200 wicks super fast.
 
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kiba

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the mesh you will have to get from the uk, there are a lot of companies in the US selling 400 as 500 mesh, which i have unfortunately found out... so i only order my mesh from the uk now.... for the kanthal yes 32 is the kanthal that comes w/ all zen devices.

32 is all you need really, I havent tried the ribbon kanthal yet but w/ 32 if you want a lower res, just twist it. twisted 32 is great but you have to replace it regulary as it gets gunked up pretty fast.
 

donnah

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Got mine out of the maibox a few minutes ago.. Super easy to set up, my coils needed no adjustment, they all glowed perfectly. The flavor is good.

The draw really is super airy.. much more so than I anticipated. This is going to take some getting used to. Is there any way to tighten up the draw some?
 

donnah

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Also.. mine didn't come with a fill hole screw. The fill hole is open and I'm wondering if it was plugged, the draw might be a bit tighter. Are they supposed to come with a screw for the fill hole?

I plugged it with a piece of toothpick and maybe it's my imagination but it seems to improve the draw.
 
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MikeE3

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Also.. mine didn't come with a fill hole screw. The fill hole is open and I'm wondering if it was plugged, the draw might be a bit tighter. Are they supposed to come with a screw for the fill hole?

I plugged it with a piece of toothpick and maybe it's my imagination but it seems to improve the draw.

No they do not come with a fill hole screw or plug. I've heard some people plugging the fill hole on RBA's with some of the blue foam that was used way back when to stuff cartridges. This cuts down on leaking if you lay the PV on it's side but still allows for air to get back into the tank as the juice is used up.
 

ScottinSoCal

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I got mine yesterday and, as others have seen, the supplied coil fires evenly and I burned it in the way the Zen video suggested. I've been using 3.0 ohm boge cartos, and this tests out at 2.3 ohms. To keep the same power, I guess I'll start at 3.9 volts and adjust from there.

But since I'm down to my last bottle of juice I'm waiting till the order I placed a little while ago gets here. I'm itching to get it going, but running out of juice is not an option.
 

kilala

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Also.. mine didn't come with a fill hole screw. The fill hole is open and I'm wondering if it was plugged, the draw might be a bit tighter. Are they supposed to come with a screw for the fill hole?

I plugged it with a piece of toothpick and maybe it's my imagination but it seems to improve the draw.

You don't want to do that, the fill hole is meant to be open if you plug it up while having a tight fitting wick like you should have, you will get fluid lock and dry hits

I know because my bf made me a small plug out of aluminum to put there when traveling so that it wont leak in my purse and I always forget to take it out. I could always tell right away because of the dry scratchy hits after one or two hits or so.
 
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