This is not a pipe...

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slopes

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Does it look whitish in the pic? This is to get some realism in vapor exiting the bowl? Nicely done, that is for sure!

Here's a pic which shows the hole more clearly. The syringe tube has been flattened a bit after it exits the tank - to create more space next to the wick.

292sp6u.jpg
 

slopes

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I still can't quite tell where the hole in the needle is. :?:

asdaq - as marked on photo. Needle size is around 1mm diameter (ie, quite chunky) .

2rxwfhg.jpg


l3oertjie - the air tube runs down through the tank and exits in the bowl. When I draw, the air comes from the bowl and is delivered to the base of the atty directly below the coil.
 

slopes

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Here are some photos of a version of my GUV MkII 'top-loader' pipe which uses an inverted, LR bridgeless atomizer. The pot is plexiglass - allowing it to emit a diffused orange glow from an led below - and carries a shaped sponge to hold juice. The wide steel ring makes one electrical contact and there is plastic cylinder fixed into the base of the pipe bowl holding the atty (and pot) in place and containing the other contact. Juice passes down into the atty from the pot, whilst air passes down the outside of the pot and in through the small holes found on the sides of the atty... of course, vapour also exits these holes and out passes out of the top of the pipe bowl.

This version uses a 10440 battery in the pipe stem.

2rh7c41.jpg


1zzmfer.jpg


2d7aas2.jpg


2qvt7o5.jpg


29b1t9t.jpg


142rf2v.jpg
 
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bapgood

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What are you guys using to solder stainless?

I have had decent success using some stay-clean flux and normal electronics solder, and if that doesn't cut it I use l3oertjie's method of wrapping some wire around the joint.

But as things get smaller and tighter it would be nice to be able to just solder things together.

These are the flux's I'm looking at, that seem to be popular. (the two LA-CO products may even be available locally :D)

Rubyfluid Stainless Steel

LA-CO M-A

LA-CO N-3

Any recommendations for solder?
 

slopes

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Jul 19, 2009
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London, UK
What are you guys using to solder stainless?

I have had decent success using some stay-clean flux and normal electronics solder, and if that doesn't cut it I use l3oertjie's method of wrapping some wire around the joint.

But as things get smaller and tighter it would be nice to be able to just solder things together.

These are the flux's I'm looking at, that seem to be popular. (the two LA-CO products may even be available locally :D)

Rubyfluid Stainless Steel

LA-CO M-A

LA-CO N-3

Any recommendations for solder?

I use regular (leadless) solder. Invest in a bottle of rust remover... cheap as chips and works wonders! Dab a little onto your stainless and the solder flows on.
 

slopes

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Here is the pot on the Mk2 version of the GUV pipe - this time using an inverted Genesis atty.

2e2kmiw.jpg


4glwn6.jpg


The coil slots into each of the two posts. The tops of the posts also act as air intake. These posts then plug into two pins fixed into the bowl base - which hold the coil ends firmly in place and supply the current.

33c58c7.jpg


One of the air intakes on each side of the pot (isolated from the body of the pot).

5dord4.jpg


Looking down into the empty pot where the top of the wick is visible.
 
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cadcoke5

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Jan 23, 2010
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First, I should mention that I am continuing a conversation I started on another thread titled, new-pipe-concept-drawing-through-atomizer-backwards

Slopes, regarding your MK2, you said on the thread I started
Mk1 and Mk2 are different. Mk1 has the battery in the bowl and Mk2 has the battery in the stem. Mk2 leaves the whole bowl free to play with.

So, is your MK2 similar in overall layout to the drawing I put in my "new pipe concept..." thread? I.e. with the atomizer in the bowl and the battery in the stem? I have attached that image below for your reference;
Dunfee Pipe Concept.jpg

-Joe Dunfee
 
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