Took the plunge!!!

[hubseven]

Carto user for year and a half. Ordered RM2.
Been reading all the threads, just a little apprehensive as cartos were so easy. Anything I should pay special attention to when starting out? Saw Robert's video and was going to copy for first try. I didn't see him tourch the coil or the silica, what I'm going to start with, is this touching not necessary? Which pole is the positive and the negative as I want to meter when done to check ohms. Robert had a cool meter in his video, where would one get one of those? Any other suggestions are more than welcome. I ordered the 30 gauge wire and 2.5 silica wick. Thanks in advance for help.

 

[JC Okie]

Carto user for year and a half. Ordered RM2.
Been reading all the threads, just a little apprehensive as cartos were so easy. Anything I should pay special attention to when starting out? Saw Robert's video and was going to copy for first try. I didn't see him tourch the coil or the silica, what I'm going to start with, is this touching not necessary? Which pole is the positive and the negative as I want to meter when done to check ohms. Robert had a cool meter in his video, where would one get one of those? Any other suggestions are more than welcome. I ordered the 30 gauge wire and 2.5 silica wick. Thanks in advance for help.

Not QUITE as easy as a carto, but Oh, So Good! You're going to love the vape you get. Torching is not necessary; it sorta cleans off the wire, and maybe makes it a little less "springy"....but not necessary. The video of Rob doing it is perfect. Copy him exactly and you'll be in business. I don't think it matters which post is +/-.....put a multimeter probe to either one and it'll measure your ohms. The little thingy he has is around, but I think a lot of places are out right now. RTD vapor has them: Meters : Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter They're out right now.

 

[darkzero]

Correct, polarity does not matter when measuring resistance. The post furthest away from the juice hole is positive.

 

[pdib]

I wonder, has anyone put their tongue on a set of posts? You know, like we did with 9 volts when we were kids?



also, I wonder . . . . . . is this a good idea?

 

[darkzero]

I wonder, has anyone put their tongue on a set of posts? You know, like we did with 9 volts when we were kids?



also, I wonder . . . . . . is this a good idea?

You know you have.

So are you pro at measuring resistance with your tongue yet? I'm still getting a feel for it.

 

[bushmaster]

Just my opinion but I think you'll be getting some cotton balls for wick soon. I have only been doing the RM2 thing for a few days but cotton is so much easier to work with than the silica. Even if it doesn't last as long, it only takes a couple of minutes to re-wick your atty and the flavor is better. I held off for a long time before Gil taunted...er, uh...encouraged me to try the RM2 and it's a hoot. I'm having so much fun dialing in my coil to where I want it. Started out with 7 or 8 wraps of 30 guage wire around the 14 guage Leur lock needle. It metered at 1.8--too much. Built another with 6 wraps--metered between 1.4 and 1.5 ohms--pretty good but......not quite there. Built one this morning with 5 wraps that meters 1.2 ohms and its kind of perfect. Really this is some of the most fun I've had in vaping. Wish I hadn't been so stubborn for so long. Good luck and I hope you have as much fun as I am.
Roger

 

[unsure]

Just my opinion but I think you'll be getting some cotton balls for wick soon. I have only been doing the RM2 thing for a few days but cotton is so much easier to work with than the silica. Even if it doesn't last as long, it only takes a couple of minutes to re-wick your atty and the flavor is better. I held off for a long time before Gil taunted...er, uh...encouraged me to try the RM2 and it's a hoot. I'm having so much fun dialing in my coil to where I want it. Started out with 7 or 8 wraps of 30 guage wire around the 14 guage Leur lock needle. It metered at 1.8--too much. Built another with 6 wraps--metered between 1.4 and 1.5 ohms--pretty good but......not quite there. Built one this morning with 5 wraps that meters 1.2 ohms and its kind of perfect. Really this is some of the most fun I've had in vaping. Wish I hadn't been so stubborn for so long. Good luck and I hope you have as much fun as I am.
Roger

Oh it didn't take all that much encouragement.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Awesome indeed hubseven I can't help with silica cause I've never used it, but if if rolled cotton ever intrigues you, check this out:
RM2 / RBA 2.0 / Reomizer 2 Rebuild Tutorial
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9421933

 

[hubseven]

Awesome indeed hubseven I can't help with silica cause I've never used it, but if if rolled cotton ever intrigues you, check this out:
RM2 / RBA 2.0 / Reomizer 2 Rebuild Tutorial
RM2 / RBA 2.0 / Reomizer 2 Rebuild Tutorial

Do you torch wire?

 

[CATastrophe]

It's not necessary to torch it. I don't bother. I fire it up a few times before wicking. Some folks torch.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Do you torch wire?

Yep. Every piece. I use 4" strips, grab em with hemos, torch the length, quench under the faucet and repeat both steps 2 more times.

 

[pdib]

Supe is crazy like that. ↑ I've seen this question a coupl'a times lately. (I always torch, one time, real torch, no quench) So, I tried wrapping my coil without torching, and THAT IS A BEAR!!!!!! Admittedly, I use 26-28 gauge wire, mostly; but it makes it 1,673.7 X easier to work with!

 

[FeistyAlice]

Just my opinion but I think you'll be getting some cotton balls for wick soon. I have only been doing the RM2 thing for a few days but cotton is so much easier to work with than the silica. Even if it doesn't last as long, it only takes a couple of minutes to re-wick your atty and the flavor is better. I held off for a long time before Gil taunted...er, uh...encouraged me to try the RM2 and it's a hoot. I'm having so much fun dialing in my coil to where I want it. Started out with 7 or 8 wraps of 30 guage wire around the 14 guage Leur lock needle. It metered at 1.8--too much. Built another with 6 wraps--metered between 1.4 and 1.5 ohms--pretty good but......not quite there. Built one this morning with 5 wraps that meters 1.2 ohms and its kind of perfect. Really this is some of the most fun I've had in vaping. Wish I hadn't been so stubborn for so long. Good luck and I hope you have as much fun as I am.
Roger

I held out almost as long as you did using cotton because my juices used to gunk up almost any coil/wick in a day needing usually a daily dryburn. In my opinion the RM2 and micro-coil almost forced me into using cotton. SO VERY GLAD!!!! I haven't gotten to Walgreen's or CVS yet to get the organic cotton roll but qtips are holding me over just fine. I'm thinking the cotton roll may make getting a consistant coil thickness even easier than qtip cotton. It's fast enough even with qtip cotton. AND I'm not needing a daily dryburn of coil even using same juice as aways.

Feisty Alice

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[darkzero]

X, just curious, why do you quench? I only torch one or twice & air cool, mainly to burn of anything that might be on the wire, it's enough to make is softer.

The way I see it there are two reason to torch, burn off contaminants & to anneal to make it easier to work with. Although Kanthal comes annealed, torching the thicker gauges does seem to anneal it further. Maybe their annealing is more like normalizing. There are various methods of heat treating, two most common methods is hardening & annealing. Heating to a specific temp (depending on the metal composition) then quenching in water or oil is hardening. Heating then cooling slowly is annealing which makes it easier to work with & increase ductility. Not sure if Kanthal gets all that harder by heat treating but I would assume so since it's annealed by the manufacturer, my guess is it has something to do with the manufacturing process.

 

[bushmaster]

X, just curious, why do you quench? I only torch one or twice & air cool, mainly to burn of anything that might be on the wire, it's enough to make is softer.

The way I see it there are two reason to torch, burn off contaminants & to anneal to make it easier to work with. Although Kanthal comes annealed, torching the thicker gauges does seem to anneal it further. Maybe their annealing is more like normalizing. There are various methods of heat treating, two most common methods is hardening & annealing. Heating to a specific temp (depending on the metal composition) then quenching in water or oil is hardening. Heating then cooling slowly is annealing which makes it easier to work with & increase ductility. Not sure if Kanthal gets all that harder by heat treating but I would assume so since it's annealed by the manufacturer, my guess is it has something to do with the manufacturing process.

Hmmmm. googled it and you are right for sure. Do we want our coil material harder or softer? I dunno. I just got here.

 

[super_X_drifter]

X, just curious, why do you quench? I only torch one or twice & air cool, mainly to burn of anything that might be on the wire, it's enough to make is softer.

The way I see it there are two reason to torch, burn off contaminants & to anneal to make it easier to work with. Although Kanthal comes annealed, torching the thicker gauges does seem to anneal it further. Maybe their annealing is more like normalizing. There are various methods of heat treating, two most common methods is hardening & annealing. Heating to a specific temp (depending on the metal composition) then quenching in water or oil is hardening. Heating then cooling slowly is annealing which makes it easier to work with & increase ductility. Not sure if Kanthal gets all that harder by heat treating but I would assume so since it's annealed by the manufacturer, my guess is it has something to do with the manufacturing process.

I saw the torching part in juicejunky 's tutorial and just do it religiously. Don't remember if quenching was in there? I did it originally cause I thought the wire would burn my paw. Even though it doesn't, I still do it cause I'm a geek like that never had a coil fail and the wire is as maliable as warm rubber in my hand after torch and quench x 3

 

[darkzero]

I saw the torching part in juicejunky 's tutorial and just do it religiously. Don't remember if quenching was in there? I did it originally cause I thought the wire would burn my paw. Even though it doesn't, I still do it cause I'm a geek like that never had a coil fail and the wire is as maliable as warm rubber in my hand after torch and quench x 3

Ah, I see. As long as it gets to how we like it that's all that matters. Not like we're working with alloyed steels for making knives.

Come to think of it, I've seen videos of people quenching SS mesh to cool it down quicker.

Hmmmm. googled it and you are right for sure. Do we want our coil material harder or softer? I dunno. I just got here.

Softer so it's easier to wrap coils. 30 awg is about the largest that's not that bad to wrap as is. I always torch to clean it anyway but i don't notice much difference. With 26 & 28 torching really does make it easier to work with even though Kanthal comes in the annealed state.

 

[pdib]

So, in another sub-forum (being a bit of a knife-maker myself), I wrote (basically) what you just wrote, darkzero. Heat treating (quench), vs air cooling to anneal (some would say = normalize). I was informed that I was wrong; in that this wire contains aluminum. It shouldn't be heated nearly as much (dark red color max); furthermore that rapid heating and cooling DOES anneal this stuff (and repeatedly, at that).

I said, "thank you very much" and continue to do one heating to orange, and air cool. Which, I can tell works great; because I CAN FEEL IT BETWEEN MY FINGERS! blink

( . . . . . . . .That "yelling" part was directed at the genius who explained the above to me.)


Nonetheless, the aluminum content thing threw me out of my depths.

 

[darkzero]

So, in another sub-forum (being a bit of a knife-maker myself), I wrote (basically) what you just wrote, darkzero. Heat treating (quench), vs air cooling to anneal (some would say = normalize). I was informed that I was wrong; in that this wire contains aluminum. It shouldn't be heated nearly as much (dark red color max); furthermore that rapid heating and cooling DOES anneal this stuff (and repeatedly, at that).

I said, "thank you very much" and continue to do one heating to orange, and air cool. Which, I can tell works great; because I CAN FEEL IT BETWEEN MY FINGERS! blink

( . . . . . . . .That "yelling" part was directed at the genius who explained the above to me.)


Nonetheless, the aluminum content thing threw me out of my depths.

Thanks for the info. I was talking about heat treating in general & is why I stated "depends on the metal composition". Yes normalizing is much like annealing, difference of what temp to heat to & the rate of cooling. I'm no metalurgist or custom knifemaker, it's just what I picked up from people in the past. Normally heat treating applies mostly to non ferrous metals. Heat treating is not necessarily hardening, it's any heat process that changes the properties of the metal wether it be softening or hardening. I guess aluminum can be heat treated too (never knew that) as the 6061-T6 I get is supposed to be heat treated (T6) but heat treated for what & how I have no idea. Never knew Kanthal had aluminum content either, I wonder if Nichrome does too? I suppose I should just look it up.

Mainly I was just curious about why Kanthal was quenched & if there was a specific reason/result of doing so. Regardless as I probably have no idea what I'm talking about, the way I heat & cool does make it softer, I'm going to try quenching next time to see if it feels any different.

What type of knives do you make?

 

[pdib]

Oh, I was just making stuff out of 01 Tool Steel. Takes a nice edge. Hard to describe, I'll try and dig up a pic. I was focused on minimal handles that feel super good in multiple holds/grips.