Triton Coil Complete Rebuild
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I've been having issues with my multi meters. Tried 3 different digital ones, including a very Nice klein brand one. All of them don't give me a steady read on ohms. Some will hover in the 2's, but most jump over 150. So I've kinda slacked. I do 7 or 8 wraps of 32ga. And test fire it a few times. Sure its unsafe, but i trust my abilities in doing something right when i rebuild all my coils now.
Go ahead, shun me now
Go ahead, shun me now
With a multimeter testing resistance, you can touch one of the leads, but not the other. I grab let's say a tank and the black probe with one hand. Then being careful not to touch the red probe metal with my finger, touch the center pin.
You might want to adjust the range or functions on your multimeter. When they are left on automatic, they sometimes get squirrely.
You might want to adjust the range or functions on your multimeter. When they are left on automatic, they sometimes get squirrely.
sometimes it is cause you keep moving around too much, a pair of probe gator clips will help with this.
the exact reading isn't all that interesting, you just want to know it's above 1 ohm and not shorted.
you work out by feel from experience how many wraps to make, then just test for a short and go.
you work out by feel from experience how many wraps to make, then just test for a short and go.
I stick with regular 32ga kanthal a1 for my tritons. Works fine for my purposes.
OK so finally picked up a multimeter, i THINK i am usuing it correctly lol. i took off auto and set to the capital M and not lower case k what ever the heck those mean lol in my scientific not knowin what i am doin this is only setting that gives me whole numbers lol as in 1.1 or 2.1 etc etc. soooooooooooooooooooooooo that said i got one coil that is between 2.8 to 3.1 and another that bounces from 3.8 to 4.1
so are these usable and if so what would the difference be since the "stock" ones i been orderin hover around 2.5
so are these usable and if so what would the difference be since the "stock" ones i been orderin hover around 2.5
Hey, Slave 1.
What kind of multimeter did ya get? The numbers sound right, that is you are reading resistance.
A couple of things. First, touch both probes together. Sometimes you will get a reading, like 1.2 for example. This is the resistance of the test wires and probes, the calibrate number. You have to subtract that value from any other reading.
Having said that, if you get 2.5 on a new premade coil, then get 3.0 on your coil, yours is 0.5 more, regardless of the calibrate number.
And you can hold the black probe against the side of the body or chimney and you can touch it with fingers, but don't touch the red metal probe. (lol, I said this a couple of posts ago)
Just touch it to the center button. And hold it there. The readings might take a few seconds to settle down.
If you give your coil a test burn or two, does the measure change? The higher the resistance, the "cooler" the vape.
Usable? As long as it is above 1.8 and below the low 3s, it's usable.
As the wire gauge goes up, the wire is thinner and needs less wraps to hit the same resistance.
With the same wire, you use less wraps to lower the resistance giving a hotter vape. More wraps, more length of wire used, more resistance, cooler vape.
As Chesty says above, Test to see that it isn't shorting out, and it's above 1 (but I'll say 1.8 for a Triton).
Good luck.
What kind of multimeter did ya get? The numbers sound right, that is you are reading resistance.
A couple of things. First, touch both probes together. Sometimes you will get a reading, like 1.2 for example. This is the resistance of the test wires and probes, the calibrate number. You have to subtract that value from any other reading.
Having said that, if you get 2.5 on a new premade coil, then get 3.0 on your coil, yours is 0.5 more, regardless of the calibrate number.
And you can hold the black probe against the side of the body or chimney and you can touch it with fingers, but don't touch the red metal probe. (lol, I said this a couple of posts ago)
Just touch it to the center button. And hold it there. The readings might take a few seconds to settle down.
If you give your coil a test burn or two, does the measure change? The higher the resistance, the "cooler" the vape.
Usable? As long as it is above 1.8 and below the low 3s, it's usable.
As the wire gauge goes up, the wire is thinner and needs less wraps to hit the same resistance.
With the same wire, you use less wraps to lower the resistance giving a hotter vape. More wraps, more length of wire used, more resistance, cooler vape.
As Chesty says above, Test to see that it isn't shorting out, and it's above 1 (but I'll say 1.8 for a Triton).
Good luck.
Oh, this online coil calculator can help...
Make sure you set the intended resistance and your wire gauge (AWG).
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Make sure you set the intended resistance and your wire gauge (AWG).
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
ITs a triplett 2030 dave. I'm usin 32awg kanthal.
I used what you said about usin the body of the housing for the black probe, combined it with fallens advice that probes need to be held still as much as possible, dont know what gator clips he meant but thought why not use the rubber sleeve, so i gently insert the black probe under the sleeve n voila it hold it nice n perdy and then i touch the bottom "button" to take my reading.
This seems to be givin me more accurate reading as my coils are readin between 2.7 and 2.9 where as they were both over 3.0 before. my "stock" coil is readin 2.5 to 2.7 so i think i am doin this here operation right i hope lol
I used what you said about usin the body of the housing for the black probe, combined it with fallens advice that probes need to be held still as much as possible, dont know what gator clips he meant but thought why not use the rubber sleeve, so i gently insert the black probe under the sleeve n voila it hold it nice n perdy and then i touch the bottom "button" to take my reading.
This seems to be givin me more accurate reading as my coils are readin between 2.7 and 2.9 where as they were both over 3.0 before. my "stock" coil is readin 2.5 to 2.7 so i think i am doin this here operation right i hope lol
Hi. I saw this promoted on another site. I haven't bought from this ebay vendor, but the feedback is 99.9% positive.
100 feet of 32 Kanthal for $4.35
Kanthal A1 Gauge 16 18 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 34 AWG 25' 1000' | eBay
caveat emptor.
100 feet of 32 Kanthal for $4.35
Kanthal A1 Gauge 16 18 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 34 AWG 25' 1000' | eBay
caveat emptor.
Coiling jig
Coil-master. Coil Master
Preorder for $12.00 rba supplies
I know it's not necessary, but is a neat gizmo
Coil-master. Coil Master
Preorder for $12.00 rba supplies
I know it's not necessary, but is a neat gizmo
I admit that I haven't been doing much with my Tritons lately. I do believe they're among the best (if not THE best) starter kits on the market today, but once you get a taste of the higher-powered APV units coupled with a properly set-up stainless and glass tank or dripper... It ain't easy going back to 2013.
That said, I have friends and relatives that are still exclusive Halo Triton users. And they give me their used coils. I've got bags of them, just waiting to be rebuilt.
What's the hold up, you ask? These things are a royal pain in the neck to rebuild, compared to what I'm used to now (Kayfun's, RDA's and ProTank/EVOD/AeroTank's). I think I can nail it down to two separate steps in my original procedure:
1 - Installing the insulating grommet. I've invented an entirely new language of profanity to be used here. And I can't for the life of me think of any existing tool or technique to make it easier. That tiny little piece of silicon will resist your efforts to push it in with the strength of 1,000 horses.
2 - Threading the silica thru the finished coil. Yes, teflon tape works - I've done it 100 times. Yes, I'm probably spoiled with how easy it is to wick KGD cotton. It's still a pain to cut a piece of teflon tape and wrap it around the end of the wick just right. And it's still going to taste like a silica wick after all that.
I figure if just one of the above obstacles could be removed (or greatly reduced), I'd be more likely to take some time and rebuild the mess of coils I have on hand.
1 - Could a custom tool be machined to make installing the grommet easy? I'm thinking of a pin (maybe tapered?), with a slightly smaller diameter than the end pin (to allow the grommet to "scrunch" as the rib moves through), with a shoulder to push it into the coil housing? I have a lathe (9" Southbend) and I know how to use it, but projects like this require a good deal of time. And the first prototype definitely won't work - that's a given!
2 - I'd bet dollars-to-doughnuts that the stock Triton coils are wrapped directly around the silica wick, thus removing the step of threading. I'd also bet that they're done free-hand, maybe using a needle thru the silica. Is the way they do it in China perhaps a better approach? By winding the coil separately, we introduce an extra (and tricky) step. Are we adamant fans of silica wick? Perhaps a different material would be easier to work with and may even taste better?
Not necessarily looking for answers here. I just wish this procedure was easier.
That said, I have friends and relatives that are still exclusive Halo Triton users. And they give me their used coils. I've got bags of them, just waiting to be rebuilt.
What's the hold up, you ask? These things are a royal pain in the neck to rebuild, compared to what I'm used to now (Kayfun's, RDA's and ProTank/EVOD/AeroTank's). I think I can nail it down to two separate steps in my original procedure:
1 - Installing the insulating grommet. I've invented an entirely new language of profanity to be used here. And I can't for the life of me think of any existing tool or technique to make it easier. That tiny little piece of silicon will resist your efforts to push it in with the strength of 1,000 horses.
2 - Threading the silica thru the finished coil. Yes, teflon tape works - I've done it 100 times. Yes, I'm probably spoiled with how easy it is to wick KGD cotton. It's still a pain to cut a piece of teflon tape and wrap it around the end of the wick just right. And it's still going to taste like a silica wick after all that.
I figure if just one of the above obstacles could be removed (or greatly reduced), I'd be more likely to take some time and rebuild the mess of coils I have on hand.
1 - Could a custom tool be machined to make installing the grommet easy? I'm thinking of a pin (maybe tapered?), with a slightly smaller diameter than the end pin (to allow the grommet to "scrunch" as the rib moves through), with a shoulder to push it into the coil housing? I have a lathe (9" Southbend) and I know how to use it, but projects like this require a good deal of time. And the first prototype definitely won't work - that's a given!
2 - I'd bet dollars-to-doughnuts that the stock Triton coils are wrapped directly around the silica wick, thus removing the step of threading. I'd also bet that they're done free-hand, maybe using a needle thru the silica. Is the way they do it in China perhaps a better approach? By winding the coil separately, we introduce an extra (and tricky) step. Are we adamant fans of silica wick? Perhaps a different material would be easier to work with and may even taste better?
Not necessarily looking for answers here. I just wish this procedure was easier.
With top wick setup, silica is just a smarter choice, cause it is so much easier to have a dry wick, and burn/scorch the wick.
I have tried cotton and rayon in my triton rebuilds, both burned at a certain point. Having to do with the tank being below half full, Im sure.
I have tried cotton and rayon in my triton rebuilds, both burned at a certain point. Having to do with the tank being below half full, Im sure.
For the insulating grommet, I used a Bic pen cap. Sounds weird, but you can stick the coil leg through the hole in the top middle and shove the little insulator right in.
editing again to add, I wrapped the coil around the silica and a safety pin for sturdiness. pull the pin out, and install the coil. Saved a lot of time. With 30g kanthal I think it was 8 wraps for 2.0 ohm
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