Triton Coil Complete Rebuild

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FallenRawToast

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i just noticed I skipped the taking a lighter to compressed coil, errr is that a big deal, why do ya hit it with a lighter actually?

No... doing it makes the wire a little bit easier to bend and crimp as you need to slide it in and such. As for the impurities, as long as you fire the coil a few times before you put the silica through you will be fine. There is a fine layer of oil on the kanthal when you get it, that needs to be burned off.
 

SlaveOne

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ok thats what I was thinkin, I fired it up n it glowed nice n pretty n didnt blow up in my face so it should be good lol. Yeah it feels awesome I was like thanks to this thread n everyone breaking it down to where it's very understandable, made first attempt not so scary. Now just need to find tune n see what works best for shovin that dang grommet back in!
 

SlaveOne

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No... doing it makes the wire a little bit easier to bend and crimp as you need to slide it in and such. As for the impurities, as long as you fire the coil a few times before you put the silica through you will be fine. There is a fine layer of oil on the kanthal when you get it, that needs to be burned off.

ahhhhhhhhh, gotcha. That makes sense. so my self satisfied <fire> o00000000o i did it <fire> itssssss soooooooo pretty <fire> I did ittttttttttt buahahahahahaaaa...........likely took care of the impurities part lol
 

chesty

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don't use a lighter like a bic, you'll just coat the wire with soot, you can get cheap blow torches for under $10.

some people get the wire glowing red when it's straight to take the spring out of the wire, and some people after they have wound the coil compress the coils together with tweezers and get it glowing red with a torch, and the coil will stay compressed. some call that a contact coil, some a micro coil.

I don't make contact coils any more, it's just an extra step and I'm lazy, I never noticed a difference between the two.

just be careful with dry burning too, you don't want the heat to travel to the grommet and scorch it.
 

SlaveOne

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don't use a lighter like a bic, you'll just coat the wire with soot, you can get cheap blow torches for under $10.

some people get the wire glowing red when it's straight to take the spring out of the wire, and some people after they have wound the coil compress the coils together with tweezers and get it glowing red with a torch, and the coil will stay compressed. some call that a contact coil, some a micro coil.

I don't make contact coils any more, it's just an extra step and I'm lazy, I never noticed a difference between the two.

just be careful with dry burning too, you don't want the heat to travel to the grommet and scorch it.

I'm gonna try dry burnin in spurts n see if that works for me. right now my biggest challenge is experimenting with getting the dang grommet back in and seeing what works best. built my second but dang near killed the grommet lol
 

FallenRawToast

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I know you were excited to fire your first coil, but you mentioned you dont have a multimeter yet. Next time....PLEASE DONT FIRE THE COIL till you have checked the resistance. If you had done something wrong.. you could of "popped" your battery. ALWAYS... let me say that one more time... ALWAYS check the resistance of your coil before putting any voltage to it.

It only takes 1 silly mistake to cause your battery to vent hot toxic gases in your face.
 

SlaveOne

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I know you were excited to fire your first coil, but you mentioned you dont have a multimeter yet. Next time....PLEASE DONT FIRE THE COIL till you have checked the resistance. If you had done something wrong.. you could of "popped" your battery. ALWAYS... let me say that one more time... ALWAYS check the resistance of your coil before putting any voltage to it.

It only takes 1 silly mistake to cause your battery to vent hot toxic gases in your face.

Noted, will do and settin em off to the side for now till I get one. I got plenty of stock coils to get me through till I get my multimeter.
 

clj74

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I'm still sporting my Halo on occasion but I'm down to only a single tank. Rebuilding the heads are fairly easy but I have trouble clipping the wires inside that recessed base. There's virtually no room in there. Given that reason started looking around for something similar but with a pyrex tank. What I chose was the Kanger protank 2 mini. Rebuilding the coils is identical but the kanger coils are a breeze. I can rebuild one in less than 5 minutes start to finish. I've also switched to organic cotton for the wicks since it's a bottom fed coil instead of top. I really wish Halo would come out with a glass tank. All the plastic parts are it's only downside imo cause I happen to like those tank cracker's lol. Halo's Triton has a much better throat hit as well and after using the ceramic wick and a silica flavor wick it's very good.

I need to pick up a couple of tanks from Halo and a vv battery as well. FYI on those little grommets, they are replaceable. Lightning vapes sells them in bulk. They are the same grommets used in several types of clearomizers. There is a rubber version and a silicone version. The silicon version is what's in the Halo coils. I just bought like 100 just to have on hand even though I haven't melted one yet, but I have tore a few. It's highly unlikely I'll need that many but I can always sell them off later on to the DIY-er's.
 
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GreenLeaf

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I know you were excited to fire your first coil, but you mentioned you dont have a multimeter yet. Next time....PLEASE DONT FIRE THE COIL till you have checked the resistance. If you had done something wrong.. you could of "popped" your battery. ALWAYS... let me say that one more time... ALWAYS check the resistance of your coil before putting any voltage to it.

It only takes 1 silly mistake to cause your battery to vent hot toxic gases in your face.

I respectfully disagree.

Rebuilding Triton coils is nothing like sub-ohming or worrying about the amp limits on a battery in a mech and/or regulated mod.
 

GreenLeaf

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right now my biggest challenge is experimenting with getting the dang grommet back in and seeing what works best. built my second but dang near killed the grommet lol

If you're re-building the coils, you should have one to spare ;) :

(just crimp it as close to a round shape as possible)


Old crimped coil housing used as press tool for bottom silicone plug:


0FzxEfS.jpg
 

FallenRawToast

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I respectfully disagree.

Rebuilding Triton coils is nothing like sub-ohming or worrying about the amp limits on a battery in a mech and/or regulated mod.


what if an accidental crossing of the legs resulted in a 0.3ohm? because the grommet ripped at the top when inserting it? On a freshly charged battery. Sure it wouldnt be as spectacular as a sub-par 18650, but the results are not something you want to toy with. Always check before you use, is the lesson.

Thermal runaway is possible with any type of lithuim battery, it is the nature of the beast, it doesnt matter if it is protected or not, the possibility exist if you use it outside of its operating parameters. Yes I know protected type cells are "safer' but they can still enter the state known as "Thermal Runaway".
 

GreenLeaf

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what if an accidental crossing of the legs resulted in a 0.3ohm? because the grommet ripped at the top when inserting it? On a freshly charged battery. Sure it wouldnt be as spectacular as a sub-par 18650, but the results are not something you want to toy with. Always check before you use, is the lesson.

Thermal runaway is possible with any type of lithuim battery, it is the nature of the beast, it doesnt matter if it is protected or not, the possibility exist if you use it outside of its operating parameters. Yes I know protected type cells are "safer' but they can still enter the state known as "Thermal Runaway".

I would be interested in seeing those catastrophic failure statistics of a sub-ohm coil on a Triton.
 

FallenRawToast

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the triton isn't a mechanical, it has a circuit board between the vgo and the battery which has over current or short protection. If you deliberately short a triton and press the button, it just flashes at you and says "duh"


even circuit protection devices have tolerances within which they can no longer function properly.


edited add in;

A quick googling, shows plenty of stories with stick batts that have such protection shoting flames and such. Sure the odds of it happening to you are maybe a tiny bit better than winning the lottery, but it can still happen.. even with circuit protection. All that circuit protection provides is another layering of odds in your favor.
 
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FallenRawToast

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oh just for laughs.. I do also test every stock coil too, from every brand. It just has saved me having to much about with filled tanks and dud coils. One dead Triton coil out of 60-ish is good. I had another that was rated for 2.2 - 2.4, but actually read 2.7 (which was fine since i use a lot of the 2.6-2.8 coils too).


Kanger aerotank coils I have had even more variance.
 

chesty

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even circuit protection devices have tolerances within which they can no longer function properly.


edited add in;

A quick googling, shows plenty of stories with stick batts that have such protection shoting flames and such. Sure the odds of it happening to you are maybe a tiny bit better than winning the lottery, but it can still happen.. even with circuit protection. All that circuit protection provides is another layering of odds in your favor.

not all egos are made the same, some have caught fire, but I agree it's statistically tiny.
a saw a picture of an ego that had a tiny battery for the size of the case and some nails taped to the battery for weight.
a few tesla cars caught on fire after accidents, no one as hurt by the fires, but there was a bit of a panic and tesla recalled them and put in titanium floors, but statistically more petrol cars caught on fire than teslas. it was all a beat up.

and you make a very good point aboot factory coils, they can come from the factory shorted.

i don't have a point, I just wanted to chat and say the word statistically a few times
 

SlaveOne

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i can vouch for the crossin legs is easy and happened just as fallen described. I didnt notice grommet tore after insert and the legs crossed, thankfully very obviously crossed. I could se it being less obvious if it was a little tear and it leading to a short. the multimeter is an easy thing, it doesnt have to be super i would think ima pick up an cheap one at harbor freight.

Im also gonna try greenleafs crimped soil housing mext go round to see if that work a lil better for that grommet, the build is super easy EXCEPT getting that daggone grommet back in.
 
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