Turning a vapor flask V2 clone into a DNA40 device

[DaTank]

This is ongoing! I did some work on it last night and wanted to share as things moved forward.

I was thoroughly disappointed with the performance of the vapor flask clone from fasttech (The chip pauses almost a full second before firing, and is slow to wake up), so I decided to migrate my DNA40 that was in a beat up hana enclosure into the flask since everything but the chip is well made.

Last night I managed to pull the flask apart, remove the chip, and do some test fitting of the DNA40 in the frame. Hopefully tonight I will finish placing the chip and be good to go.

The album of my progress so far is on imgur:
FV DNA40 Build - Imgur

Notes so far:
The makers save space in the clone by using a breakout board that attaches to the chip. That board unfortunately doesn't line up with the DNA40, so I'm stuck removing most of the board to fit the chip. I need the space the board takes up since the wires take up more space than the clone+breakout, and space is tight when it comes to the total height of the chip plus wires. Plus in removing the clone chip I somehow nicked a trace on the breakout board and now the battery positive and negative sides of the board are permanently shorted. Oh well.

The switches are also soldered to the breakout board through the frame. That board is all that is holding the switches in place so I'm leaving that portion of the breakout board in place and just dealing with the soldering for the up and down being a pain in the ....

Also, fair warning, I am not a soldering artist. The chip will work and be secure, but I'm not the guy who spends 2 hours extra to make sure every wire run is a work of art. My aim is to be secure and stable with good connections.

 

[Cotay]

I will pr

This is ongoing! I did some work on it last night and wanted to share as things moved forward.

I was thoroughly disappointed with the performance of the vapor flask clone from fasttech (The chip pauses almost a full second before firing, and is slow to wake up), so I decided to migrate my DNA40 that was in a beat up hana enclosure into the flask since everything but the chip is well made.

Last night I managed to pull the flask apart, remove the chip, and do some test fitting of the DNA40 in the frame. Hopefully tonight I will finish placing the chip and be good to go.

The album of my progress so far is on imgur:
FV DNA40 Build - Imgur

Notes so far:
The makers save space in the clone by using a breakout board that attaches to the chip. That board unfortunately doesn't line up with the DNA40, so I'm stuck removing most of the board to fit the chip. I need the space the board takes up since the wires take up more space than the clone+breakout, and space is tight when it comes to the total height of the chip plus wires. Plus in removing the clone chip I somehow nicked a trace on the breakout board and now the battery positive and negative sides of the board are permanently shorted. Oh well.

The switches are also soldered to the breakout board through the frame. That board is all that is holding the switches in place so I'm leaving that portion of the breakout board in place and just dealing with the soldering for the up and down being a pain in the ....

Also, fair warning, I am not a soldering artist. The chip will work and be secure, but I'm not the guy who spends 2 hours extra to make sure every wire run is a work of art. My aim is to be secure and stable with good connections.

Interesting about the cradle. Seems to be the same as the Infinite version: sell us the shell with buttons & 510: FastTech Forums I would probably put some double sided tape on the face of the board and fasten the real DNA40 to it and wire directly to the DNA40. That existing bottom board would just act as a mounting point. It also looks like you will need to reuse the USB charge board since it doesn't line up like the Evolv version.

 

[DaTank]

I will pr

Interesting about the cradle. Seems to be the same as the Infinite version: sell us the shell with buttons & 510: FastTech Forums I would probably put some double sided tape on the face of the board and fasten the real DNA40 to it and wire directly to the DNA40. That existing bottom board would just act as a mounting point. It also looks like you will need to reuse the USB charge board since it doesn't line up like the Evolv version.

It supplies the right voltage, so reusing the existing charger is what I am going to do.

Because of the way the board sits it wasn't possible for me to keep the board; most of it is removed now. Otherwise it was simply too thick with wires; I left the wires from my hana build on it and didn't include photos of the test fitting.

I'm planning on covering the chip after soldering with part of a anti-static bag, then adding a small crossbar to the frame so the chip isn't hanging by it's wires. The flask is chassis grounded so I need to make sure the whole chip is properly isolated.

 

[Cotay]

It supplies the right voltage, so reusing the existing charger is what I am going to do.

Because of the way the board sits it wasn't possible for me to keep the board; most of it is removed now. Otherwise it was simply too thick with wires; I left the wires from my hana build on it and didn't include photos of the test fitting.

I'm planning on covering the chip after soldering with part of a anti-static bag, then adding a small crossbar to the frame so the chip isn't hanging by it's wires. The flask is chassis grounded so I need to make sure the whole chip is properly isolated.

So you also need to remove the breakout board? How are you securing the DNA40 to the cradle? Are there any sort of tabs that will lock it in place?

 

[DaTank]

So you also need to remove the breakout board? How are you securing the DNA40 to the cradle? Are there any sort of tabs that will lock it in place?

Probably hot glue some of that I'll play by ear.

 

[zerocool5878]

Rather then trying to use jumpers It might be a good idea to design a new breakout board. I would be willing to buy a few boards from you. I could also help in designing it in eagle if you needed help.

 

[AnsonJames]

Looking forward to your updates - interesting project!

 

[DaTank]

Alright so I finished the build over some drinks on Friday. Only 3 pics, but 90% of soldering and making sure wire runs fit. Pretty self explanitory. I used anti-static bag between what was left of the breakout board and the DNA, then between the DNA and the enclosure. Been vaping almost 3 days with no glitches at all. Accurate resistance, perfect firing on my temperature control build kayfun 4 and big dripper, as well as a normal fogger and zero gravit RDTA.

See the first link above for more photos.

 

[Cotay]

Nice work...very encouraging! How did you end up bracing the DNA in the cradle? I was thinking of plastic welding some cross members on the lower portion below the remaining bit of breakout board for the buttons.

 

[AnsonJames]

Did you use any kind of balancing board for the USB charger?

 

[DaTank]

Nice work...very encouraging! How did you end up bracing the DNA in the cradle? I was thinking of plastic welding some cross members on the lower portion below the remaining bit of breakout board for the buttons.

Everything was so tight when I put it together I didn't bother. It's braced by the top of the DNA40, then to the wiring, then to the buttons/frame. It's sandwiched in. This thing isn't going anywhere.

Did you use any kind of balancing board for the USB charger?

No, at least not specifically for this 2p1s configuration the flask in it, but I bought two 25r's specifically for this build so they could be married. The only time they've ever been charged or run is together in this build.

I use a parallel charging board for my lipos when I RC, and it's not unusual to run 6-10 packs at a time charging in parallel as long as they are the same brand, model, and configuration. Balancing leads are run parallel as well. As long as it's a good charger and isn't high amperage (Which the DNA isn't) it's not much of a concern. At least it wasn't for me.

 

[Crunchy2k]

Nice job!!! I wonder if we are going to see DNA20 & 30 upgrade services on craigslist.....

 

[laurie9300]

I have this exact upgrade in my near future (infinite flask). This has been very useful and informative. Thank you so much for posting, I feel better prepared........

 

[laurie9300]

It appears that the battery -ve is connected to the 510 ground? Is that the only connection? Did you connect B- and GND (DNA pins 8 and 11) to the 510 ground?

 

[DaTank]

It appears that the battery -ve is connected to the 510 ground? Is that the only connection? Did you connect B- and GND (DNA pins 8 and 11) to the 510 ground?

No. The DNA40 internally grounds the output negative and B negative. Grounding one solidly enough and with the proper sized wire is enough.That's why I used pin 8 for the charger negative and pin 11 for the output ground, and didn't use pin 12. It save two runs along the board of good gauge wiring and saved from space needed to fit the chip and wiring into that tiny thickness.

 

[classwife]

New Sub !!

Moved to Temperature Control from Variable Voltage APV Discussion

 

[DejayRezme]

New Sub !!

Moved to Temperature Control from Variable Voltage APV Discussion

Ohhh fancy!

 

[HomeSlixe]

Is the breakout board even necessary? Just got my replacement chip, hoping I don't blow myself up by skipping something important lol!

 

[zerocool5878]

I have designed a breakout board for this mod. I will get it installed next week (just waiting on the new switches) and if all is well I will have about 6 left to sell off.

Will include the breakout board, new up and down switches, 6 pin header. and single pins for the corners of the dna.

I will post an update next week after the switches get here.

 

[DejayRezme]

Thanks again for this thread and the infos. I just got a fasttech vapor flask clone. It looks gorgeous but the DNA40 clone chip is just a bit different and feels "wonky" compared to the original. It works but I definitely want an original DNA40 in there

I don't think it can fire 0.08 ohm coils properly. What annoys me most is that you don't see the watts the mod supplies, or the updates on the screen are slow. Actually slow updates and showing an "average" wouldn't be so bad. But the "temp protection" messages appears for far too long.

Worst of all the fire button doesn't work so well. It has a nice click. Then you release a bit of pressure and it stops firing even while stick "clicked". I definitely need to replace it. Anyone can tell me what kind of replacement button I will need and where to get it? Thanks.

I have designed a breakout board for this mod.

Very professional Please let us know how well they work. I'm just curious, are there companies that can make such PCBs? How much does something like that cost?