Turning a vapor flask V2 clone into a DNA40 device

[DejayRezme]

Oh noes! I tried to unscrew the top plate with the fitting hex key and one screw worked. Two others didn't! The hex key just slipped I just hope it's just the hex key that's ruined and not the screw heads. Else I have no clue how to get the screws out of there...

EDIT: Never mind. I found out that a "star shaped T6 bit" worked perfectly. A 1.3 and 1.5 hex bit didn't. Maybe the screw heads are not hex key at all? I'll just let this stand here as a cautionary tale.

Also note that you should take out the batteries before attempting to even loosen the screws because the battery presses the whole assembly against the top plate. Initially I only wanted to loosen the screws a little because I noticed that my top plate was misaligned and had an overhang. After taking the batteries out and reassembling it looks perfect! I really love the case, it looks awesome. Great QC. Well except the sloppy assembly. And the fire button. Well lets just say the case shows great potential after I'll fix it

 

[DejayRezme]

So I took my 3Fvape vaporflask clone apart today and the fire button is a little different. I had to tear it out with brute force because it's either glued in or has some kind of clamp / clasp mechanism. On the plus side I now know how microswitches are build internally! The whole plastic tray is also slightly different but looks fine.

The 510 unfortunately is a problem. It isn't spring loaded and it also has a different thread on the end, a weird kind of two part thread (probably M8x0.5). Otherwise I could just thread in the spring loaded insulator part of the varitube and be done with it. Gonna have to glue the insulator in or something.

I'll also have to make the "tray" a little bit bigger for the DNA40 big screen.

 

[AnsonJames]

They're T6 torx screws...

Got any photos?

 

[nilly]

Hi, did you ever find a fix for the fire button issue? did you get ahold of a replacement?
I have the same issue with my kangxin v3 flask, if i dont apply hard pressure to the button it wont fire, anoying as hell.
i have allready bought a FD v3 as a replacement for the 510 as the center pin is way too loose :/

You or anyone else have a link to a button that would work as a replacement?

One day i WILL have a fully working VF even if its gonna be the death of me .

Thanks again for this thread and the infos. I just got a fasttech vapor flask clone. It looks gorgeous but the DNA40 clone chip is just a bit different and feels "wonky" compared to the original. It works but I definitely want an original DNA40 in there

I don't think it can fire 0.08 ohm coils properly. What annoys me most is that you don't see the watts the mod supplies, or the updates on the screen are slow. Actually slow updates and showing an "average" wouldn't be so bad. But the "temp protection" messages appears for far too long.

Worst of all the fire button doesn't work so well. It has a nice click. Then you release a bit of pressure and it stops firing even while stick "clicked". I definitely need to replace it. Anyone can tell me what kind of replacement button I will need and where to get it? Thanks.

 

[DejayRezme]

Oh sorry! The first vapor flask I got was actually from 3FVape and not from fasttech / kangxin. So just to clarify:

The one from 3FVape has a nice smooth finish and brass battery holders and a nice looking but fixed stainless steel 510 but a wonky button and a chip that is simply not working correctly for temperature control.

The fasttech vaporflask (not on fasttech anymore) is the kangxin V3 one, has a less nice "sandy" finish, sharp edges on the body (definitely a candidate for a JWrap). But it has a much better chip and an adjustable 510. Also the buttons work fine for me. I'm pretty sure the copper 510 won't last very long. It also looks different from the version pictured in the OP.

So my fasttech vaporflask fire button actually works well. I think a certain percentage of any type of micro switches are bad. I bought some original tactile dome capped switches (hana style) and one of them was wonky as well. So my guess is that it can happen

I need to find a suitable replacement fire button as well. My guess is that you could use any kind of small micro switch but you might have to use superglue / epoxy to glue the cap to the button and fiddle a bit to glue the button in.

PS: I'll take some pictures of my 3FVape clone. It's just such a PITA to get photos from my phone to my computer.

Hi, did you ever find a fix for the fire button issue? did you get ahold of a replacement?
I have the same issue with my kangxin v3 flask, if i dont apply hard pressure to the button it wont fire, anoying as hell.
i have allready bought a FD v3 as a replacement for the 510 as the center pin is way too loose :/

You or anyone else have a link to a button that would work as a replacement?

One day i WILL have a fully working VF even if its gonna be the death of me .

 

[DejayRezme]

Here is a gallery with some pictures:

So this is the one I got from 3FVape (non kianxin version, good finish, bad chip):
VF 40 STYLE TEMPERATURE CONTROL VW VARIABLE WATTAGE MOD VERSION 3 - SILVER, 1~40W, 2 X 18650, MICRO USB CHARGER

This is the one I got from fasttech (kianxin version, bad finish, good chip):
VF 40W STYLE TEMPERATURE CONTROL VARIABLE WATTAGE MOD BY KANGXIN - SILVER, 1~40W, 2 X 18650, MICRO USB CHARGER, UPGRADED VERSION

This is a micro switch I already bought. It has the same dimensions but the pin is different:
Mini pushbutton T604 N/A from Conrad Electronic UK
Maybe this is the right one:
Pushbutton, Printed switches 12 Vdc 0.05 A 1 x Off/(On) Diptronics DTS-644R-V momentary 1 pc(s) from Conrad Electronic UK

 

[nilly]

Thanks alot for the pictures, and links. And like you say the chip in the Kangxin just works, been great for me as a introduction to TC, no dry hits ever again. But needs some improvments to be usable, atleast mine does. The center 510 pin worked ok when i got it, but after a couple of weeks its come very loose.

 

[DejayRezme]

Yeah the Kangxin chip is a good clone so far. Replacing the 510 should be rather easy, at least if you can live with the gap (14mm vs 16mm or so but you can't see it anyways). Do you have the version with the copper 510?

I noticed that the battery is connected only via the 510 ground. Did anybody mod his flask by making another ground to the case directly? Not sure if the connection through the 510, top aluminium plate and then through the screws holding the top plate and the case together is so great?

I wonder if anybody has a cutout sheet to make your own wrap?

 

[nilly]

I'll have to take a look at that ground when i get it apart, i bought the washer aswell for the FD v3, so i'll just see if i need to use it or not, and yes its the copper Kangxin i got.

 

[laurie9300]

Thank you so much for this thread. It made my build a lot easier knowing what was coming. Just finished mine..................... I have done a "Build Log" which you can see here................

DNA40 Transplant into Infinite Clone.pdf - Google Drive