Ufs v2
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Yes and it is the same "cap" as on the GGTS. It is a delrin insulator cap. They often will be such a tight fit with the threads in the connector that when you remove the firing pin, the plastic remains threaded inside the connector itself.
Justs be gentle when removing it from the connector so you don't damage it to the point t needs replacement. They are readily avaliable at $5 USD but no need to toss fivers into the fire.
If you have trouble getting it out, let us know so some of the different methids can be explained to you. And yes, it is there or your firing pin/contact post would have nothing to screw into.
Here is ann exploded view of the UFSv1 colledction tank assebly. It is the same as the v2 in this area. The part we are talking about is number 5 in the rendering:
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3081385/ufs-connector-assembly-exploded-pdf-august-16-2011-7-49-pm-233k?dn=y
Justs be gentle when removing it from the connector so you don't damage it to the point t needs replacement. They are readily avaliable at $5 USD but no need to toss fivers into the fire.
If you have trouble getting it out, let us know so some of the different methids can be explained to you. And yes, it is there or your firing pin/contact post would have nothing to screw into.
Here is ann exploded view of the UFSv1 colledction tank assebly. It is the same as the v2 in this area. The part we are talking about is number 5 in the rendering:
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3081385/ufs-connector-assembly-exploded-pdf-august-16-2011-7-49-pm-233k?dn=y
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Strange its not in the connector,Its almost like that part never came with the UFS guess i will have to buy one then.Yes and it is the same "cap" as on the GGTS. It is a delrin insulator cap. They often will be such a tight fit with the threads in the connector that when you remove the firing pin, the plastic remains threaded inside the connector itself.
Justs be gentle when removing it from the connector so you don't damage it to the point t needs replacement. They are readily avaliable at $5 USD but no need to toss fivers into the fire.
If you have trouble getting it out, let us know so some of the different methids can be explained to you. And yes, it is there or your firing pin/contact post would have nothing to screw into.
Here is ann exploded view of the UFSv1 colledction tank assebly. It is the same as the v2 in this area. The part we are talking about is number 5 in the rendering:
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3081385/ufs-connector-assembly-exploded-pdf-august-16-2011-7-49-pm-233k?dn=y
Well I was just rushing putting my UFS v2 together and pulled out the pin I grabbed the extra connector from my UFS v1 and put it on, I'm in a lazy mood and don't feel like fixing it.
LR dual coil in my UFSv2 at 5 volts laying on my couch.. pure relaxation.
I grabbed the extra connector from my UFS v1 and put it on, I'm in a lazy mood and don't feel like fixing it. LR dual coil in my UFSv2 at 5 volts laying on my couch.. pure relaxation.
check again...I can't imagine how it would work w/o one. The center pin would shift over and short.
Here's the center pin assembly; in place and removed. You don't have the black delrin piece at all?
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Absolutely Para. Being with little to do of value tonight, I just took the delrin cap off a spare GGTS connector I had and I don't see how it would work either. I'm thinking it might have been inadvcetently dropped or is still in the connector. Without it, the connector pin assembly wont stay in the connector on its own w/o the cap.
Ignitor, the good close-up pix that Para has provided and the exploded drawing referenced do make the cap look larger than it is. It is quite small. If you had to unthread the asembly off at all, it was threaded to the cap. Otherwise, there is nothing to thread to.
Ignitor, the good close-up pix that Para has provided and the exploded drawing referenced do make the cap look larger than it is. It is quite small. If you had to unthread the asembly off at all, it was threaded to the cap. Otherwise, there is nothing to thread to.
Ok I have it worked out the one I cant figure out is when I actually pulled the pin out the 2 small orings were inside the connector but the black delrin piece remained on the pin.I thought the 2 orings sit behind the black delrin piece or just inside it if that makes sense.Also i thought there was suppose to be 2 black delrin pieces on the pin lol.
Nope just 1 derlin piece. The o rings should actualy sit inside the derlin for assembly follow this process.
Completely dissassemble you should have 1 pin 1 metal nut 3 o rings 2 small 2 larger and a derlin piece.
Put the larger o ring on the pin then put the metal nut on the pin.
Slide the 2 small o-rings onto the pin and slide down to metal nut.
Carefully work the derlin over the o rings and thread the metal nut into it
Finally thread the derlin into the connector.
Completely dissassemble you should have 1 pin 1 metal nut 3 o rings 2 small 2 larger and a derlin piece.
Put the larger o ring on the pin then put the metal nut on the pin.
Slide the 2 small o-rings onto the pin and slide down to metal nut.
Carefully work the derlin over the o rings and thread the metal nut into it
Finally thread the derlin into the connector.
Ah gotcha! Actually the 2 small (2mmx1mm) O-rings go onto the post and then you thread the delrin back on over those two O-rings.
When taking the delrin cap off, use the least damaging method that allows its removal. The most used are securing the hex end in a 10mm socket or similar and then untreading the cap using rubber gloves or rubber ban wrapped around the cap.
That should provide enough traction to remove the delrin. It may take a couple of tries the first removal but just as a personal note, I would avoid pliars unless you simply cannot get it off otherwise. The pliars will scar up the delrin pretty good and especially the threads. And yes, been there, done that so I know from experience about the delrin damage!
When you replace it, use hand tightening with the aforementioned glove or other rubber gripping material. Depending on how long it is used before it has to be removed again will usually show that this retightening with hand pressure will be more than adequate.
When taking the delrin cap off, use the least damaging method that allows its removal. The most used are securing the hex end in a 10mm socket or similar and then untreading the cap using rubber gloves or rubber ban wrapped around the cap.
That should provide enough traction to remove the delrin. It may take a couple of tries the first removal but just as a personal note, I would avoid pliars unless you simply cannot get it off otherwise. The pliars will scar up the delrin pretty good and especially the threads. And yes, been there, done that so I know from experience about the delrin damage!
When you replace it, use hand tightening with the aforementioned glove or other rubber gripping material. Depending on how long it is used before it has to be removed again will usually show that this retightening with hand pressure will be more than adequate.
Yep thats what i did and all is well but im still confused how those 2 small orings ended up in the connector.I think it wasnt assembled properly and the 2 orings were on the front of the black delrin piece and thats why it was so loose nothing really holding the pin in place cause like i said when i pulled the pin out the orings were inside the connector.... I dunno lol either way its working properly now and thanks guys for the help
It is possible if you pull the pin out to attach an atomizer then push it back in for the o rings to pop out the top of the derlin. At least it is possible with the GGTS and since they use the same o-rings and derlin I would imagine the same could happen on the UFS.
No offense, but I seriously doubt it. My experience is, myself included, when a GGTS doesn't work properly.....it's operator error. If they were out of place, odds are the operator is the cause. When one of my GG devices isn't working properly I take a step back and try to figure out what *I* am doing wrong.
I did that last night and one of the o-rings was sticking out of the top when I took it all apart. I'll fix it today after I have a few drinks in me so I'm more relaxed.
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