After i fried 2 pcc's almost immediately after/while charging on my pcc, I now only use a usb to wall adapter for all my needs. Dealextreme sells a 2000ma wall adapter for almost nothing. The one I use is a variable 5v -15v (dealextreme) with a 4 port usb adapter (innovapor)
USB is killing my pass-thru's!
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addy's responses are correct, carto, preme is 2.7 ohms of resistance (measured with Multimeter) 5v fm usb = about 2 amps. The problem is probably not your usb port but the pt device. They have very thin wiring inside, small boards and are not glued well in the bottom end in my experance (limited as i am new). Chances are that loose ends at the bottom coupled with the twisting of use caused the wires to break or fray and short out the PT. A downfall of small electronics unfortunately but the hazard of convience. The PC is well protected and regulated and the usb will temporally shut down before frying the MB. The current protection will not allow it to function until the problem device is removed. Chances are that you just got a bad PT and they fried themselves.
How many volts are in a U King battery?
How many volts can the car USB charge up to?
(The rest of this thread is too complicated to charge a battery....imho)
I haven't gotten mine yet but, this sort of thing is exactly what I need to avoid to vape and enjoy it.
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The simplier the fix, the more complications my mind avoids.
How many volts can the car USB charge up to?
(The rest of this thread is too complicated to charge a battery....imho)
I haven't gotten mine yet but, this sort of thing is exactly what I need to avoid to vape and enjoy it.
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The simplier the fix, the more complications my mind avoids.
If I understand this correctly, you're saying that my usb port is fine - it's the pass-thru's that were bad? Two of them?
Both of them were freebies with my order so I can't really complain, but the one I have remaining is one of the new ones and I actually paid for it. I guess I'll just have to take a chance, plug it in, and see what happens!
I'll report back...
Thank you all for your help!
I'm using my last PT and it seems to be working fine, which means that I just had two bad PT's. What are the odds?!
off topic: adrenalynn, what do you do for a living? I like the cut of your jib (nerd talk).
What exactly happens to the PT when it stops working? is an internal component frying?
Do pt's have an internal overload circuit to prevent from drawing too much current, protecting the USB port?
If not, and it's just a straight through device, I fail to see how they become inop, and even if they do, should be a relatively easy fix. Passive components are usually much less susceptible to breaking than active components.
Just ordered a PT myself, if it ever stops working, I'll disassemble it, take it to work, and figure it out.
I'm sure these are J-STD Class 1 devices, meaning made as cheaply as possible, with horrible quality control. It would not surprise me in the least if the solder connections are still covered in flux, and exhibit substandard assembly.
What exactly happens to the PT when it stops working? is an internal component frying?
Do pt's have an internal overload circuit to prevent from drawing too much current, protecting the USB port?
If not, and it's just a straight through device, I fail to see how they become inop, and even if they do, should be a relatively easy fix. Passive components are usually much less susceptible to breaking than active components.
Just ordered a PT myself, if it ever stops working, I'll disassemble it, take it to work, and figure it out.
I'm sure these are J-STD Class 1 devices, meaning made as cheaply as possible, with horrible quality control. It would not surprise me in the least if the solder connections are still covered in flux, and exhibit substandard assembly.
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I see you've gotten many replies to your topic and though I am not up on all the computer tech talk I will give you mine, as I wrote a thread on this same problem.
Used a pt for a couple of months without problem, then it just stopped so v4life gave me another, it then within about a week quit. Decided it might be the newer type of pt so ordered a older type from somewhere else but again in about a week it quit. Now I explained this to 2 of the suppliers and this is the first I have heard that the premo carts possibly are causing this. I have gotten another pt and have been using it for about 2 weeks and (knock on wood, it is still working). One thing I did which might or might not of been a problem is at the same time I was using the pt I also had a usb charger plugged in to one of the ports and I decided maybe it was best not to use them both at the same time (which not sure that would make sense) but still. However up until today I have not been using the premium carts this since I started using THIS pt (as still had some older ones), so I suppose that could be it, I just changed it after reading this thread. It would of been nice to of known that earlier though.
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I don't think that it's caused by the premo carts because I vaped them last night on my last remaining PT and luckily, I've had no problems at all... yet. If I do, I'll post about it.
MY REPOST FROM A PREVIOUS THREAD:
Using a V4L manual PT to my usb port. I have had my manual button stick ON and cut power to my usb port. Thinking of the worst thing was burning out my usb port. I have dual usb on one side ond they BOTH lost power. Computer was fine. Being in high power business, it would make sense that these would have a breaker or a Ground fault Circuit Interruptor (GFI or GFCI) to protect these electronics in case of a liquid spill or voltage spike or overload, similar to your outlets in your bathroom with a TEST and RESET button. I re-started my computer and my usb ports engaged full power again. I have a 1 yr old toshiba satellite which are virtually indestructible anyhow.
The passthrough is factory rated for the usb port. At least the manufacturer tells you so. I do not recall seeing a UL or Underwriters Laboratory tag on the PT but i am betting on safe and will continue to use in my usb port as you should be your own judge with safety and a little common sense. Get your PT specs from your supplier and consult your computer hardware device for usb output voltage. Hope this helps.
Check Your USB Ports :
Control Panel -> System -> System Properties -> Hardware -> Device Manager -> Universal Serial Bus Controllers -> Right click PROPERTIES on USB ROOT HUB -> Click POWER tab -> shows total power available per port. Mine shows 500mA (milliamps) per port
A USB cable has two wires for power (+5 volts and ground) , On the power wires, the computer can supply up to 500 milliamps of power at 5 volts.
Using a V4L manual PT to my usb port. I have had my manual button stick ON and cut power to my usb port. Thinking of the worst thing was burning out my usb port. I have dual usb on one side ond they BOTH lost power. Computer was fine. Being in high power business, it would make sense that these would have a breaker or a Ground fault Circuit Interruptor (GFI or GFCI) to protect these electronics in case of a liquid spill or voltage spike or overload, similar to your outlets in your bathroom with a TEST and RESET button. I re-started my computer and my usb ports engaged full power again. I have a 1 yr old toshiba satellite which are virtually indestructible anyhow.
The passthrough is factory rated for the usb port. At least the manufacturer tells you so. I do not recall seeing a UL or Underwriters Laboratory tag on the PT but i am betting on safe and will continue to use in my usb port as you should be your own judge with safety and a little common sense. Get your PT specs from your supplier and consult your computer hardware device for usb output voltage. Hope this helps.
Check Your USB Ports :
Control Panel -> System -> System Properties -> Hardware -> Device Manager -> Universal Serial Bus Controllers -> Right click PROPERTIES on USB ROOT HUB -> Click POWER tab -> shows total power available per port. Mine shows 500mA (milliamps) per port
A USB cable has two wires for power (+5 volts and ground) , On the power wires, the computer can supply up to 500 milliamps of power at 5 volts.
More "sailing geek-speak" really - which, owning a 45' Hunter, I can appreciate too.
I do a "little of this, little of that". I've been in EE for decades - hardware, software, firmware.
I mostly do embedded algorithm work, lots of compression and encryption stuff, the last twenty years or so.
Thanks for the kind words!
Back to your question: The PT is pretty simple: A FET switching the load, activated by a super cheapie low-current push button. One little PCB with a FET, a switch, and not much else (for the manuals). The older autos have a vacuum reed switch sealed separately.
The non-PT/battery units are a bunch more complicated. 16bit MCU, charge controller, FET, and some discreet glue components.
The USB is already protected from over-current, so it's really unnecessary to protect the PV itself. Once the USB heats up, it's going to kill power to the PT. And yeah, they're built as cheaply as possible, then a little more cheaply. Then a little more, until we wind-up where we are now. Too cheaply.
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thats what i was guessing...in school for that now at penn state, and an RF tech at a defense contactor. enough hijacking, carry on
>> in school for that now at penn state
I'll shortcut to keep the hijack down.
MS EE/CS, MA Math, undergrad physics, math, microbio/virology, PhD [actually DBA (emphasis on Intl business law and ethic) ] microbio was an "accident" related to math and physics and some publication/consulting work that lead to the below. Funny how it works out. The DBA was far later in life, going back to school...
>> RF tech at a defense contactor
That's a similar path to mine when I first started out while in school. From Jr. Programmer -> Snr Software Engineer -> Lead Architect -> Principal Embedded Engineer -> VP R&D on loan to a defense contractor from the DOD. (I was in ComSec and Analysis instead of RF though. Did a fair bit of RF work at that time, but it was all in relation to cipher)
I'll shortcut to keep the hijack down.
MS EE/CS, MA Math, undergrad physics, math, microbio/virology, PhD [actually DBA (emphasis on Intl business law and ethic) ] microbio was an "accident" related to math and physics and some publication/consulting work that lead to the below. Funny how it works out. The DBA was far later in life, going back to school...
>> RF tech at a defense contactor
That's a similar path to mine when I first started out while in school. From Jr. Programmer -> Snr Software Engineer -> Lead Architect -> Principal Embedded Engineer -> VP R&D on loan to a defense contractor from the DOD. (I was in ComSec and Analysis instead of RF though. Did a fair bit of RF work at that time, but it was all in relation to cipher)
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