V2 pro tank hack

[Winters]

New cartridges took to long to arrive on international snail-mail, so I tried this, and it works!!!

The catch is the tool you have to make by cutting the top of a treading needle, as you will see.

You will want to have between 7 and 6 loops on the coil for an original+ or overhauled vaping experience.

Even without replacing the wick and coil, you may extend the cartridge life by simply pulling the wick slightly sideways, just enough to get the burnt area out. You will need really thin tweezers for that.

Now my cartridges last forever!


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[Voodoo Jay]

Cool! Thanks

 

[AtmaDarkwolf]

Do you coil the wire inside the central tube or stick it down the middle?

Can't quite see what exactly your doing with the back of the needle there.

 

[Winters]

The "v" end of the coil is being tucked into the small hole and the other end follows the wick. When you close it with the tip the wick end of the coil closes the circuit with the outer cilinder/casing.

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[Winters]

The needle is being used to push the "v" end of the coil into the hole like this: |v|

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[AtmaDarkwolf]

hmm tried it with newer 'failed' carts(where the wire burnt though wicking, basically just replaced it) and none of them work after 'repair'

I must be doing something wrong

Edit: ok i found what was wrong. the wire from the wick end kept getting tucked inside the center cylinder(when i pushed the cap thing on, it pushed wicks down i guess and bent that wire) when i instead 'threaded' the 'wick' end of the wire into the wick first (out the other side then lay it down against wick)then wrapped the rest and made the V, it worked. (Also threading it though first helps anchor it at that end)

And (Crosses fingers) SO far the 'repaired' carts are workign 10x better than they did BEFORE when brand new(Alot of vapor)

 

[Das Auto]

Ingenious Mr. Mcgyver!!!!

 

[AtmaDarkwolf]

Further update, I tried the fix on a couple carts I had that got a REAL bad burnt taste, and sadly, while it DOES work for a moment, there is just too much corrosion and/or 'ash' from the burnt out wick/wire that it just won't work(the inside part is burnt black, and it does work after repair for a few puffs, it won't keep working, prob because the inside is so messed up)

So if u do this don't wait too long on old carts(the second it starts to get that burnt taste, repair the cart)

I think though if u do this early , carts will last indefinitely. (Seems the 'projected lifetime' of the carts, as the site says, is vastly more than actual life of the carts, most get that 'used/burnt' taste after 2 fills NOT 20+ like they say)

The repaired carts will likely last much longer because both the wick and the wire are of much higher quality.

 

[Winters]

Glad to see more people getting it to work!

I would recommend whoever is trying this to have a multimeter at hand to get used to the OHM values of the coils you are making, for best results.

If I recall correctly, original cartridges are around 3 OHM. The ones I've made are usually around 2 OHM.

I've also learned that here is a specific OHM range in which the battery recognises it as a loose leaf cartridge. To get around the "always on" behaviour of the battery you may try to slide he cartridge in while simultaneously pressing the button.

Regarding the expected life of the cartridges, V2 staff informed me that advertised life is for original PG fluid. In my experience VG fluids really clog the coil faster.

One thing that may help with the burnt taste is to leave the disassembled cart in a vodka bath for a while. Clean it inside later with a cotton swab.




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[Winters]

And yes, I am also getting 10x more vapour on hacked carts


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[AtmaDarkwolf]

I haven't tried vodka, but I do let them sit(both before and after i've swabbed the inside out to get rid of the 'ash') in isoproypal alcohol. I'm not sure if vodka would be better or not.

 

[chance0018]

I just received my pro series 7 the other day and the cartridge is already having issues with burnt taste. I noticed it doesn't even look like the wick goes past half way down in the tank. Do you think this hack would work well with the series 7?

 

[Winters]

I'm not familiar with series 7, but probably the core components are similar, with more room around.

I got the vodka bath tip around here somewhere. I just don't recommend hot water, I've tried once and dismantled the cart.

 

[rbgatti]

This is great! I've been tossing those tanks after a couple of weeks. I'll give this try. Anyone upgrading to the Series 7?

 

[AtmaDarkwolf]

can't see quite in pic, and ive been using 30gauge wire, what gauge are you using?

 

[Winters]

30 gauge also


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[HristValkyrie]

This is the only place I could find for information on improving on the original V2 Pro's cart design, and after attempting your method I have a few questions (for anyone that has succeeded).

1. Can you be a bit clearer on how exactly you are coiling the wick? After a couple of botched attempts, I succeeded on doing this to a fresh cartridge and an old one, but both have the same problem; lots of flavor, no vapor, and they heat/get burning taste VERY quickly. My coils are 5/5 and 5/6 usually, do I need to coil more or less you think?

2. On the placement of the wire, the 'v' goes inside the small center hole, I got that part. Is there a limit to how far you want to get it inside, or does that matter? Does the coil that goes inside the cylinder have to avoid contacting the center cylinder? I've had a few attempts where this method works for a bit then suddenly stops, and shaking the cartridge will sometimes restore functionality; I think this is why? As far as the wire that goes on the outside, this just needs to be thread along the wick to the outside through the side of the cylinders 'cover' and come into contact with nothing other than the cylinder, yes?

3. On my first couple attempts I was getting a lot of leakage of fluid through the mouthpiece. Seems better now that my technique has improved, but to be sure are there any tips on preventing this?

Again, anyone who has done this successfully please feel free to respond; in-depth directions/pictures would be extremely helpful. I can get it to work, just not as described here in the thread. :\ I'm using 30 gauge Kanthal and 2mm Ekowool.

(FYI, for what it's worth I can confirm the originals are 3 OHM resistance, and the battery detects cartridge type based on the magnetic connectors on the cart itself, not resistance)

 

[Winters]

See below. Hope it helps.

1. Can you be a bit clearer on how exactly you are coiling the wick? After a couple of botched attempts, I succeeded on doing this to a fresh cartridge and an old one, but both have the same problem; lots of flavor, no vapor, and they heat/get burning taste VERY quickly. My coils are 5/5 and 5/6 usually, do I need to coil more or less you think?

For me the quick burn means more loops needed. I think it's good to start with 7 loops on a 30 gauge wire and tune up or down from that point. The opposite of a quick burn would be a slow to start cartridge or thin vapour. You will also notice a slightly shorter battery life, due to the lower resistance and increased mass of the 30 gauge coil. Another thing you could do is fine tune the coil by half loops, the only thing is that one end of the coil will be in a different place in relation to the "v" end. I'm using a paper clip inside the wick to spin the coil, you may have different results depending on the thickness of the paper clip you use.



2. On the placement of the wire, the 'v' goes inside the small center hole, I got that part. Is there a limit to how far you want to get it inside, or does that matter? Does the coil that goes inside the cylinder have to avoid contacting the center cylinder? I've had a few attempts where this method works for a bit then suddenly stops, and shaking the cartridge will sometimes restore functionality; I think this is why? As far as the wire that goes on the outside, this just needs to be thread along the wick to the outside through the side of the cylinders 'cover' and come into contact with nothing other than the cylinder, yes?

In my cartridges the "v" tip of the coil goes down for 5-7 mm before the edge of the "v" , and then goes up again only 1-2mm short of touching the coil again. The contact with the inner cylinder is needed to make the connection (you may notice that the tips of the original coils are both tucked into the cylinder, but they are separated by a white rubber, so one end goes to the inner cylinder and the other touches the outside cylinder).I got those sudden stops on some new cartridges too, and they may also be caused by some residue on the cartridge contacts.


3. On my first couple attempts I was getting a lot of leakage of fluid through the mouthpiece. Seems better now that my technique has improved, but to be sure are there any tips on preventing this?

I think you may have lost the o-ring seal, it happened to me

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