VAMO Owners - Pics, Tips, Tricks and Quirks

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jackbox

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Well thanks for the suggestion. I'm not one to return things at this price point. It adds to the cost in shipping and the costs to vendor to replace, hurts us consumers in higher prices in the end. But that's just me.

All is not lost. I was able to pry it back out with a paperclip and a nut pick of all things. and I'm being very carefully with all the buttons. Still seems loose. Hubby thinks I should buy another one, but not another ss. I'm thinking about it. I also think that it would be easier to wrap. Seems like nothing wants to stick to the ss.

Thanks for letting me complain. <3 to you all.

It could be as simple as the board slightly shifted putting lateral pressure on the button. Remove the lower tube and battery and look up into the tube with a flashlight. You will see the circuit board. It should be perfectly parallel in respect to the plane the button is on. If not, use plastic tweezers and gently twist the board in the direction to make it perfectly perpendicular to the button. That might relieve the pressure and allow the button to operate normally.
 

bluegrasslover

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I posted this response in a thread where the center post insulator in the connector was shot and not making connection to the atty. It was really easy so I figured I post it here in the tips and tricks thread as well.

Here's what i did as a temp fix but is holding up well so far. I carefully pulled the center post on the vamo out of the connector. The wire is long enough. I took a small oring and put it on the bottom of the post and pushed the post back into position. It is a little higher than the original insulator but it is a little more springy. I've been using this for a couple weeks sms is working great. No soldering no grinding and takes just a minute to do. I have no idea what size the oring is.
 

Skypea

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It could be as simple as the board slightly shifted putting lateral pressure on the button. Remove the lower tube and battery and look up into the tube with a flashlight. You will see the circuit board. It should be perfectly parallel in respect to the plane the button is on. If not, use plastic tweezers and gently twist the board in the direction to make it perfectly perpendicular to the button. That might relieve the pressure and allow the button to operate normally.
That was it! OmG, so easy. Well it was a pain in my .... to get in there. lol my tweezies were too flexable. But I did it. With hubby holding the flashlight and me saying "no, I'm going to do it". Poor guy, I shot him down.

Thank you!!! I hope it stays. ;)
 

VClouds

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Hey guys, searched this thread and couldn't find an answer. No matter what kind of atomizer I put on top of it, the resistance on the VAMO reads zero ohms and it just refuses to fire. Is this something I can fix?

I'm no expert but I do have a Vamo.

My first guess would be come kind of center pin problem, pushed down too far to make contact, been pulled up enough to break the connected wire maybe.

If you are able to use a meter and see if it is actually firing, if it is it's most likely a contact issue (pin mashed down).

If there is no voltage then it's probably an internal problem like a broken wire.

Of course I just have to ask the silly question, are you sure you turned it on (does the screen light up with the + & - buttons)?

Let us know how this goes and maybe we can give a better idea of the actual problem.
 

OnTheFidele

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Hey guys, thanks for the advice. Pulling the pin has been a bit of a "half fix". Without atomizers on it, the resistance finally reads as the normal 9.9 ohms. Voltage remains accurate. It's when I start attaching my Terminator-C that the resistance begins to go bak to zero ohms. Also, the pin seems much flimsier than I'd have expected...
 

awsum140

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Just a guess, but maybe the Terminator did it's job, terminated the center pin on the Vamo. It's possible the center pin on the Terminator is sticking out just a little too far for the Vamo. You may want to try replacing the "O" ring under the center post on the Vamo with one from Home Depot. The exact size to get is mentioned here in this thread, somewhere. I don't remember what size is mentioned, but a number of people have had good results doing that.
 

bluegrasslover

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Hey guys, searched this thread and couldn't find an answer. No matter what kind of atomizer I put on top of it, the resistance on the VAMO reads zero ohms and it just refuses to fire. Is this something I can fix?

That's what mine did when the insulator went bad. I used an oring only temp. Find an old carto and pull the center contact out from the battery connector and there is a suitable replacement insulator. Follow my instructions about the oring but use the carto insulator.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 

VClouds

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Thanks guys, I guess it's time to put in an insulator or o-ring. How far can the center post be pulled from the device? I'd hate to rip it out unwittingly.

Not sure but there is a video on youtube that shows how to take a Vamo apart for repairs that might help. One of the Vamo threads had some nice stills of one apart too.

Haven't had to do this repair yet but as I understand it pulling the top of the pin even with the top of the 510 connector is about the limit.
 

BdMoore85

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I do fast battery changes being a LT and VMax owner, but the Vamo still doesn't remember watts. I think it was a co-op unit I got from the ECF classifieds. Even with the pink buttons I don't care, I still like it! Poor thing's condemned to 2.5 ohm DCs 'til I get rid of them. What's the 6 watt bug?

I so want to be able to access the co-ops and classifieds, can you and some other members help me out pleeeaaasssssseeee?
 

VClouds

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bluegrasslover

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Thanks guys, I guess it's time to put in an insulator or o-ring. How far can the center post be pulled from the device? I'd hate to rip it out unwittingly.

The post can be pulled out fast enough to do the replacement easily

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 

Deamon L. Scaduz

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